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[Webby the Bear]

There's a few different ways.

The kit I mentioned before does no damage to anything (wheel or lock nut).

I've seen someone put a blob of weld on the locker and then some Irwin stud extractors to wind them off via the aforementioned weld.

Chiselling (though I've never attempted it) I imagine would be difficult depending on how far they're recessed in.

[Nick W]

There's a number of different ways, from chiselling them off(if you have access), drilling them, welding a nut to them, or the various special tools that are guaranteed*** to work every time






*** that's a salesman's guarantee; so some of them work, some of the time. And if you're really lucky, you might manage to use the same tool on all four

[terry paget]

As mentioned above, I have found alloy wheels, with their steel centres, rusted hard on the hubs. I tried kicking them, hitting them with hammers, to no avail. Only way I could shift them was to leave the wheel nuts half a turn loose, then go for a 2 mile drive; that never failed. Steel wheels were no trouble. Once off, a good wire brushing of the hubs, and some grease, ensured I could get the wheels off next time.

[Webby the Bear]

As mentioned above, I have found alloy wheels, with their steel centres, rusted hard on the hubs. I tried kicking them, hitting them with hammers, to no avail. Only way I could shift them was to leave the wheel nuts half a turn loose, then go for a 2 mile drive; that never failed. Steel wheels were no trouble. Once off, a good wire brushing of the hubs, and some grease, ensured I could get the wheels off next time.

Large dead blow hammer works every time.

[Nick W]

As mentioned above, I have found alloy wheels, with their steel centres, rusted hard on the hubs. I tried kicking them, hitting them with hammers, to no avail. Only way I could shift them was to leave the wheel nuts half a turn loose, then go for a 2 mile drive; that never failed. Steel wheels were no trouble. Once off, a good wire brushing of the hubs, and some grease, ensured I could get the wheels off next time.

Large dead blow hammer works every time.

I like a long piece of 4x2. Which means you don't have to be under the car - something that's very important at the side of the road.

[Bigron]

Judging by all the methods of removal outlined here, is there any point in having locking wheel nuts? The great unwashed will already know this and will borrow your wheels in a trice if they want them.....

Ron.

[terry paget]

I appreciate my method presumes I can drive the car 2 miles - i.e. no puncture. Bigger hammer could work, but might damage an alloy wheel. Length of 4X2 good idea, but not something I wish to carry around, but fine for a recovery truck man.

[Bigron]

What, you wallop the crap out of it with the 4x2?

Ron.

[Nick W]

I appreciate my method presumes I can drive the car 2 miles - i.e. no puncture. Bigger hammer could work, but might damage an alloy wheel. Length of 4X2 good idea, but not something I wish to carry around, but fine for a recovery truck man.

The problem is the bare aluminium of the wheel reacts with the steel hub. When they're are tight fit to start with, they become very difficult to separate. If you clean the back of the wheel with some scotchbrite, wire brush the hub faces and apply a smear of coppergrease, you won't have a problem.

[Nick W]

What, you wallop the crap out of it with the 4x2?

Ron.

yes.

[johnnydog]

Judging by all the methods of removal outlined here, is there any point in having locking wheel nuts? The great unwashed will already know this and will borrow your wheels in a trice if they want them.....

Ron.

This might have been the case years ago when alloy wheels were a bit of a rarity and were only fitted to more prestige vehicles, but these days most cars have alloys, and usually only base models have steel wheels.
I don't think that alloy wheel theft is an issue today unless your vehicle is some exotic vehicle with rare or particularly expensive wheels.
This was another reason for getting rid of the locking wheel nuts on my Omegas.

[Migv6 le Frog Fan]

Although a new set of premium tyres, worth more than the car, might be worth nicking.
Ive binned mine too, as they are more hassle than they are worth. 

[robson]

Mine in the bin too.

[Bigron]

Should I try the scrappie for ordinary bolts, or are Vx prices sensible?

Ron.

[johnnydog]

Most 'sensible' people put the wheel bolts they've removed in the tray in the plastic wheel bolt box with the locking key.
I presume you have looked?
Then again it depends whether the previous / first owner was sensible.....
I will guarantee that if you go to any scrappy, and have a look on the ground near any Vauxhall, you will find more than enough for your needs. They are invariably just left where they fell when the wheels are removed.
They have a weight stamped on the head - just make sure they are all the same as your existing bolts.
Failing that, I'm sure most OOFers on here will have a surplus of them.
PM me if you are struggling.....