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[Lizzie Zoom]

I have that annoying “Headlight Range” warning message showing, which stays on until I cancel it.

I have had this before on my other Omega’s, and know their is a device on one of the front suspension arms. 

On a 2003 3.2 what side is it on please?  Thinking how hard it may be to find a replacement part, can the old one be successfully cleaned up to make it work properly, or is it a case of hunting for a replacement please?  If so, has anyone got the part number for that device?

Many thanks.

[Doctor Gollum]

Both front and rear left control arms.

The one in the rear right is for the air shocks.

[Lizzie Zoom]

Both front and rear left control arms.

The one in the rear right is for the air shocks.

Thanks

[Migv6 le Frog Fan]

Usually the plastic balljoint wears and comes apart. A good used replacement probably the best answer, but thin on the ground these days.

[dave the builder]

If you've got the BALLS and a stiff ROD you can make a new "arm" 

[STEMO]

If you've got the BALLS and a stiff ROD you can make a new "arm" 

Find an aged midget and pinch his hip replacement.

[Nick W]

If the lever on the sensor is still working, then a new link arm can be easily and cheaply made using generic ball and socket fittings.

[Doctor Gollum]

Or a UV resistant cable tie...

[dave the builder]

If you've got the BALLS and a stiff ROD you can make a new "arm" 

Find an aged midget and pinch his hip replacement.

Opti  will be along shortly (probably tomorrow now, it's past his bedtime), to say you can't call them "midgets" 
though I genuinely can't think what the woke /PC term is 
Also "pinch" is theft , and has been frowned upon since Moses's time, when he downloaded rules onto his ipad tablet 

If the lever on the sensor is still working, then a new link arm can be easily and cheaply made using generic ball and socket fittings.

that's what I said here >>>>

If you've got the BALLS and a stiff ROD you can make a new "arm" 

Or a UV resistant cable tie...

I did a temporary fix 5 years ago to my front one with 3 cable ties 
must get around to a permanent fix one day 

[Lizzie Zoom]

If you've got the BALLS and a stiff ROD you can make a new "arm" 

Thanks Dave and Nick, I like that line of thought!

I also like the cable ties idea DG!

I am about to find out what condition the existing unit is in, then make decisions.

Does anyone know what the original Vx part number was for this device just in case I can obtain a new one on the web?

Thanks all

[dave the builder]

Does anyone know what the original Vx part number was for this device just in case I can obtain a new one on the web?

Thanks all

just google hens teeth from the saddle bag of a triple headed unicorn 

OR

fix the one you have if possible 

or buy another omega with working level control and hope the sensor is worth salvaging 

[Doctor Gollum]

Does anyone know what the original Vx part number was for this device just in case I can obtain a new one on the web?

Thanks all

just google hens teeth from the saddle bag of a triple headed unicorn 

OR

fix the one you have if possible 

or buy another omega with working level control and hope the sensor is able to be salvaged

Fixed.

Given the propensity of not being prepared to keep it tip top at any cost, you may be better accepting that it doesn't work. The original sensors were unavailable fifteen years ago and the Vectra C ones that superceded them aren't plug and play and are thin on the ground even second hand as almost no Vectra Cs had xenon lights fitted.

[TheBoy]

I think I chucked the one I had on the shelf only just before Xmas.  Its possible its still in the bin in the garage.


2 usual modes of failure:
Balljoint issues - fixable in a variety of ways, as previously described.
Water ingress - its got quite complex electronics in, considering what it does.  Hard to get them apart without breaking them, and resealing the case afterwards could be a problem.  Never tried repairing one thats had water ingress, but I doubt it'll just dry fully with a hairdryer

[johnnydog]

I have that annoying “Headlight Range” warning message showing, which stays on until I cancel it.

I have had this before on my other Omega’s, and know their is a device on one of the front suspension arms. 



On a 2003 3.2 what side is it on please?  Thinking how hard it may be to find a replacement part, can the old one be successfully cleaned up to make it work properly, or is it a case of hunting for a replacement please?  If so, has anyone got the part number for that device?

Many thanks.

In answer to your actual question Lizzie - it is highly likely to be the ball joints on the rod that have seized, rather than the sensor failing. I have successfully cleaned up, lubricated and reused the rod from my existing ones previously. They need removing from the car, lubricating, and very gently work each balljoint gently until its movement is acceptable without force.
The headlight level and suspension level sensors originally were the same part number - 9117094, but this NLS. However the respective the part numbers have been replaced by 93197245 (headlight) and 93197514 (suspension). The rod is part number 9117095 which hasnt been superceeded.
Availability though, may be the difficulty.
When Omega were relatively common in breakers, I removed good arms just for spares, which is your last option, but they are just as likely to in the condition yours are at present.. I'm however certain you will be able to resurrect your own with care.

[cam.in.head]

as i once asked a while back ( cant remember the reply )
if the arm comes off why does it throw up afault ?surely thats just like a non moving car ?
 is the shaft then free to move to its extreme end or spring loaded ?
when i got my omega one arm was detached and allthat happened was the lights didnt move when you loaded the boot. arm back on and they moved again !