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[Dave G]

That’s odd Stemo, because when I click on the link it displays fine…

Never mind.

[STEMO]

That’s odd Stemo, because when I click on the link it displays fine…

Never mind.

It's loaded for me now. They look too fat to have come from a bearing

[YZ250]

That’s odd Stemo, because when I click on the link it displays fine…

Never mind.

It's loaded for me now. They look too fat to have come from a bearing

They look like dowels to me. 

Anyway, we want the cover off so forget about these pins for now. 

[STEMO]

We'll know a lot more when the cover comes off

[Migv6 le Frog Fan]

Yep look very much like dowels.
Cant think where theyve come from though. 

[Dave G]

OK, so an update. I don't remember Mark having to remove the aux belt tensioner and the compressor pulley, but maybe I'm wrong.
So the cover is away, and some pix here:

Parts removed (scary - for me anyway)


And the view of the front - left it full size in case anyone needs to zoom in... (if they're too big I'll resize and retry)


I did manage to turn the crank a little before it locked again - suppose it could be compression...

Where should I be looking next?

Apart from in the beer fridge!

[cam.in.head]

well nothing looks obvoiusly wrong . the tensioner is a little out but within its range . if you cannot get the engine to tdc it will be hard to say 100% . also if those dowels were from the cams(cannot  omment on what they look like!) then all the bolts and washers appear intact (unless they have been missing all this time / highly unlikely !)
maybee next step would be to look inside camcovers ?

[Enceladus]

Might the dowels be the locking/shipping dowel used on the auxiliary belt tensioner, used to keep the roller at minimum for easier installation of the belt and then removed? That said there is only one dowel, not two. I used to use a drill bit as a dowel substitute, if I removed the belt.

And can you get a more head on picture of the top roller between the heads. I'm wondering if the eccentric is rotated too far clockwise.

And a more head on pic of the adjuster on the tensioner backplate.

The bottom roller looks like it's the type with no eccentric so can't be wrong.

[Sir Tigger KC]

Have you tried removing the plugs and then cranking it slowly? 

[Migv6 le Frog Fan]

Cam timing needs checking with the correct kit.
Engine needs looking at by someone who knows these engines. I think James V6 volunteered further up the thread.

[polilara]

Is it worth calculating how many teeth of each cam is to timing marks and check if they match  and match with crank mark?

[Nick W]

Cam timing needs checking with the correct kit.

This level of diagnosis can be done with the marks on the cam pulleys and the backing plate, together with the crank pulley mark. While not exact enough to time an engine to run properly, it is close enough to show if anything has slipped badly.


The engine can be quite hard to turn over by hand; I much prefer to do it with a long handled ratchet instead of a normal short one.

[Doctor Gollum]

Cam timing needs checking with the correct kit.

This level of diagnosis can be done with the marks on the cam pulleys and the backing plate, together with the crank pulley mark. While not exact enough to time an engine to run properly, it is close enough to show if anything has slipped badly.


The engine can be quite hard to turn over by hand; I much prefer to do it with a long handled ratchet instead of a normal short one.

Pulling the plugs removes the compression aspect, but even then, if it won't turn freely after running recently then it's not a good sign.

Either way don't force it.

[Dave G]

Hi, here are photos that Enceladus asked for - as close to head-on as I can get.





I'll be back on the case in the morning - I need to find which of these timing marks to look for.
There are lines on the gears and a couple of notches on the backplate. I'll look up the right ones.

When I've got all the info I can, I'll PM James V6 (If that's OK James)...

[YZ250]

Hi, here are photos that Enceladus asked for - as close to head-on as I can get.
…….
I'll be back on the case in the morning - I need to find which of these timing marks to look for.
There are lines on the gears and a couple of notches on the backplate. I'll look up the right ones.

When I've got all the info I can, I'll PM James V6 (If that's OK James)...

The tensioner is showing as slack but if the crank has been rotated by hand it doesn’t always return to the same spot so may not be representative of an issue.
As for the timing marks, each cam number should line up with its respective cam. Cam 1 (long notch) and cam 2 (short notch) are straightforward enough but cams 3 and 4 should line up as follows .
Cam 3 shows the left notch as 3 so line cam 3 to the left (long) notch and cam 4 shows the 4 as the right hand (short) notch so cam 4 should be lined up with the right hand (short) notch. You will need a mirror on a stick and a torch to be able to see the crank marking. Hope that makes sense. 
As mentioned, I think that I’d remove the spark plugs to reduce compression and see how it rotates without forcing it.