Print

Please login or register.
1 Hour 1 Day 1 Week 1 Month Forever
Login with username, password and session length

[TheBoy]

Got an MOT pass on the E Class.

Just advisories on front and rear disks, so need to weigh up options there

Merc service parts are sometimes pretty reasonable, so always worth a call to the dealer. Even if you then decline their offer

[Jimbob]

Got an MOT pass on the E Class.

Just advisories on front and rear disks, so need to weigh up options there

Merc service parts are sometimes pretty reasonable, so always worth a call to the dealer. Even if you then decline their offer

Will do,

ATE disks and pads all round from ECP came in about £360 as a starting point.
Ill see what the parts are, or the whole job at indy and take it from there.

[Doctor Gollum]

Mercedes brakes are similarly priced to VX ones unless you're buying for something like the S65 or GL63

Eurocraparts only worth considering during one of their better sales, but only if you can buy decent brands from them in the sale.

Ate discs and Jurid pads, although both retail for as much as genuine bits, so shop carefully 

[Jimbob]

Mercedes brakes are similarly priced to VX ones unless you're buying for something like the S65 or GL63

Eurocraparts only worth considering during one of their better sales, but only if you can buy decent brands from them in the sale.

Ate discs and Jurid pads, although both retail for as much as genuine bits, so shop carefully 

cheers, good to know

[Doctor Gollum]

Do you have the genuine part numbers?

[Jimbob]

Do you have the genuine part numbers?

Not yet, not in a particular rush, the car barely moves these days, and if I could think how to best replace it, I'd prob not be doing em at all

[Doctor Gollum]

Do you have the genuine part numbers?

Not yet, not in a particular rush, the car barely moves these days, and if I could think how to best replace it, I'd prob not be doing em at all

Do you have access to the numbers?

[Jimbob]

Do you have the genuine part numbers?

Not yet, not in a particular rush, the car barely moves these days, and if I could think how to best replace it, I'd prob not be doing em at all

Do you have access to the numbers?

Nope, not ever downloaded any systems as not needed em before now!
Only thing I sussed was how to do a free sat nav update

[Doctor Gollum]

Can look them up if you like... Pm the chassis number and I'll dig them out

[Migv6 le Frog Fan]

Tried, without success, to change the cambelt on the Omega. e had any problems on the rare occasions I  have done them before, but got in a right old muddle today for some reason.
First issue was when fitting the belt the marks on the belt wouldnt remotely line up with the cams. I know the belt markings arent critical ,but I was still a bit puzzled by it.
I followed the DVD as usual and thought I had it all fitted correctly,but when I started to rotate the crank at the end, the o/s inlet cam spun forwards 3 or 4 teeth in the belt !
Started again and got to the same point again, but not very confident its all ok. Then it started raining so I packed in for the day.

[Doctor Gollum]

Did you tighten the top idler after adjusting it? Or swap the new pullies onto the original plates

I find that they're either straightforward or a complete bastid. All you can do is reset and try again. 

[Migv6 le Frog Fan]

Yep, top idler arrow set to 12 o,clock, then tighten the 13mm nut. Bottom one anti clockwise until marking lines up with the top of the notch. All tightened to 40nm. Didnt swap anything over as the new backplate etc. al looked the same as what I was taking off.  Dont know where I went wrong tbh.
Will try again, tomorow - if its dry.

[Doctor Gollum]

Didn't adjust the top pulley then? 

[YZ250]

Yep, top idler arrow set to 12 o,clock, then tighten the 13mm nut. Bottom one anti clockwise until marking lines up with the top of the notch. All tightened to 40nm. Didnt swap anything over as the new backplate etc. al looked the same as what I was taking off.  Dont know where I went wrong tbh.
Will try again, tomorow - if its dry.

Shouldn't the top idler be set to 8 o'clock' ish and then tighten the bolt whilst holding the large nut in position.
The adjuster is turned to new belt position and held in position with an Allen key and then tightened up by the 13mm nut. It's imperative that the large idler nut is held whilst tightening the top idler bolt, as failure to do so can loosen the other, as they turn in opposite directions. 
I've got a load of photos from when I've done mine in the past so if you need any visual guides just give me a shout.
Good luck for the next attempt. 

[YZ250]

........
First issue was when fitting the belt the marks on the belt wouldnt remotely line up with the cams. I know the belt markings arent critical ,but I was still a bit puzzled by it.
I followed the DVD as usual ........

If yours is a 3.2 with a non-adjustable lower idler, remember that you'll have to feed the belt anti-clockwise. If I recall, the DVD is showing two adjustable idlers on a 3.0 V6, on which the belt is fed clockwise. That doesn't work too well with the lower fixed idler so you need to feed it anti-clockwise. 
Apologies if that was obvious to you.