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[theolodian]

Its not unknown for the coil pack to go......is the ECU light still on?

When i turn the ignition on the ECU light stays on, as does the one with the pic of an engine on it.

I just started the car and floored the accelerator and it revved for about a second but very quickly died again. When it dies it almost sounds like its being suffocated, and the smell outside the car is really nasty.

Sounds like the exhaust is blocked.  The intake could do the same, except for the smell.

[Rock]

So my trusty Vx dealer could be right this time about the blocked Cats then?

[Admin]

Not convinced by the exhaust...yet.

The awful smell will down to unburnt fuel going through the system. If the 2,4,6 bank is not firing you will have the symptoms you have described. You will also have a very dead cat very soon if you try and continue to run it.

[Rock]

Oh i see. Now you say it like that it suddenly makes sense... I will have that coil pack changed this weekend and see what happens.

[theolodian]

So my trusty Vx dealer could be right this time about the blocked Cats then?

Could be.  I don't think that it would start and then quickly suffocate if it was just the coil pack.

[Rock]

But its the less expensive place to start so I have to give it a go. (£70 + VAT on TC.)

[TheBoy]

But its the less expensive place to start so I have to give it a go. (£70 + VAT on TC.)

Even if cat is fubar, pointless changing until misfire on 2,4,6 sorted, else it will happen again...

[Rock]

If the cat is blocked AND the coil pack is faulty, would I get the same symptoms after changing the coil pack?

My ODB2 code reader arrived today so when I get home i will be able to get the latest set of fault codes from the system.

[Taxi_Driver]

Primary....possibly (ECU would spot this fault though)....secondary, I suspect not as we think they have air gaps in them.

You usualy use a set of test plugs and fire the coils via tech 2 to check them

If its of any help.....I have a vectra outside that wont start.......reason is i have its duff coil pack inside and also a brand new one inside waiting for me to fit it....i have a trusty fluke77.....so any measurements i can take to help??? or see if one is different from the other.....i did have little play earlier but wasnt sure if meter needed to be set on diode switching mode....not sure whats in coil packs....apart from obviously coils!  

Wasnt sure on primary side which was 0v so wasnt sure what i was measuring

I know the coil packs are different to omega ones.....but coil packs must be coil packs....if you see what i mean.....so if anyone thinks it will be helpful and can tell me what to measure.....then just shout and i'll be happy to...

[Marks DTM Calib]

i have a trusty fluke77

Ah yes, the over rated multimeter the industry uses.... (poor accuracy, pricey calibration and mega expensive to buy)

Not realy any measurements that can be taken as the secondary side as said seems to have an air gap so it juts reads open circuit all the time.

What the dealer should have done is connect test plugs to the coilpack outputs and fired each one via tech2 fbefore changing it......but that would require an ounce of common sense!

[Markjay]

I haven't paid for the coil pack for bank 1, and they have removed it and put the original one back in.

All i've paid for is a bulb at one pound something and an hour and a half labour for tech 2 diagnostics and fitting the bulb.

I will get up early tomorrow morning and attempt to get the plugs out and give the wells a clean out. If they are full of oil, what is the best way to clean them up? Just soaking up with some kitchen towel or something?

On the 2.6/3.2, the coil packs sit directly on top of the plugs and actually seals the plug wells, so oil in the plug wells is not very common on these engines - unlike with the 2.5/3.0.

[Markjay]

[Taxi_Driver]

i have a trusty fluke77

Ah yes, the over rated multimeter the industry uses.... (poor accuracy, pricey calibration and mega expensive to buy)

Not realy any measurements that can be taken as the secondary side as said seems to have an air gap so it juts reads open circuit all the time.

What the dealer should have done is connect test plugs to the coilpack outputs and fired each one via tech2 fbefore changing it......but that would require an ounce of common sense!

Mine was free   i did have a fluke87, that was free too  , but dunno what ive done with it  

Anyway i did have a bit of a play.....think i discovered which pin was 0v on the primary side.
On both coil packs the readings on all coils were either 0.7 or 0.8 ohm.

Now this is where i got a bit lost......if you could measure the secondary coils.....shove one end the meter probe inside the rubber shroud so it hits the spring where does the other end of the meter go???

[Rock]

Ok guys, I have an update...

Replaced all 6 plugs and coil pack 2. (Thanks markjay for your how2 on the "other site"   )

The news though isn't good. Started the car and it tried to stall straight away although this time it is trying to fight it and idles badly for a while before giving up the fight.

I have been unable to get my new USB ODBC cheapy tech2 thing working so i don't know what fault codes are on there.

Any suggestions on what to do next?

[Taxi_Driver]

Ok guys, I have an update...

Replaced all 6 plugs and coil pack 2. (Thanks markjay for your how2 on the "other site"   )

The news though isn't good. Started the car and it tried to stall straight away although this time it is trying to fight it and idles badly for a while before giving up the fight.

I have been unable to get my new USB ODBC cheapy tech2 thing working so i don't know what fault codes are on there.

Any suggestions on what to do next?

 

So if you rev it does it die faster than if you just let it idle?