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[Mike Bowden]

Can anyone help? I've just finished cleaning out the small breather hose and jet on my wife's 1995 2.0 CD, and the jet has sheared off, leaving part of the threaded bit stuck in the engine?

Is this fixable? Any ideas on how, how much, or if it's even worth it?

[Grumpy]

Seeing as you said that you had cleaned the Jet, I assume that
it sheared off when you tightened it back into position.

If so, there will be no torque on the threaded portion, just
a little friction between the threads. As it already has a hole
drilled down the centre, you should be able to screw an 'Easyout'
screw extractor into the remaining threaded portion and simply
screw it out again. Replace with new or source a second hand one
from a scrappy.

[Grumpy]

For those that don't know what a screw extractor is, check out the
following link.

http://www.justoffbase.co.uk/Screw-Extractor-Set-with-Wrench-6pc-Helix-Type-Sealey-AK721;jsessionid=0a0002491f434ab0de729e984e1694b2dc2f2f87f533.e3eTaxmKbNaNe34Pa38Ta38Rb3j0?sc=2&category=454

I wouldn't recommend using something like this on, say, a corroded
exhaust stud. It is likely to snap off inside the stud and leave you with
a bigger problem. Similar to trying to drill a diamond with a chocolate
drill bit  

But in the situation described above, it should remove the remainder
of the damaged Jet quite easily.

[Mike Bowden]

It was already pretty tight, but gotta be worth a try!

What are the water hoses that run through the joint for?

[Grumpy]

It was already pretty tight, but gotta be worth a try!

What are the water hoses that run through the joint for?

They heat the Jet to stop it freezing. I explained it more fully in the guide
that I wrote.

[Mike Bowden]

Are they essential? I was thinking of epoxing the jet back in, then simply taking the banjo joint out and joining the two hoses together.

Thanks for your help!

[Grumpy]

Are they essential? I was thinking of epoxing the jet back in, then simply taking the banjo joint out and joining the two hoses together.

Thanks for your help!

They are there for the same reason that your Throttle Body has a
heated water jacket around it. GM wouldn't have fitted the system
if it wasn't required. If you extrapolate the price for one unit for
all the units manufactured, it would come to a tidy sum. The 'Bean
Counters' would rather poke their eyes with needles than take
extra costs out of per unit profit for no good reason.  

Why not do a professional job instead of bodging it?
You'll get a Jet for peanuts at a scrappy.
Your call of course. Your car, your money.

Are you sure you didn't cross thread it when refitting?
It seems a bit strange to shear off inside the Throttle Body
instead of the weaker waisted portion of the Jet.
Maybe you are just unlucky.

[Mike Bowden]

Any idea how much work it would be removing the snapped off bit? There's obviously not enough clearance down there to get tools in! I guess I need to take the bit below the throttle body (shows how technical i am lol) off? Is this easy?

[Grumpy]

I assume there's nothing left sticking out of the Inlet Manifold
to get some grips on, or to file flats on and use an open ended
spanner?

If not, there's plenty of room to use a screw extractor as per
my previous link. You don't need to use the handle as shown
in the link, all extractors have a square end on which you can
use a spanner. The extractors are shorter than the Jet that
protrudes from the Inlet Manifold.

You just screw them into the remaining part of the Jet in the same
direction as if you were unscrewing a normal bolt. The tapered
flutes on the extractor dig into the Jet, grip it internally, and then
the broken portion of the Jet just screws out along with the
extractor.

If it is as tight as you are saying, considering that there is no
tensile loading on it, then, as per my previous post, there is a chance
that you have cross threaded it on refitting. This will give you
damaged threads inside your Inlet Manifold. These may clean up
with a Tap. But if not, you're looking at getting a new Inlet Manifold.

If you find it's very tight for you to work in this area, you can always
undo 3 of the four nuts that hold the Throttle Body on top of the
Inlet Manifold, loosen the fourth one and swing it out of the way.
If you are happy to undo the water pipes and Throttle Cable
from the Throttle Body, then just remove the Throttle body
completely. But if you could work a spanner in there to remove
the Jet, then there's no reason why you can't work a spanner
to use the Screw Extractor. It's shorter than the Jet.

[Mike Bowden]

Thanks Grumpy, you've been very helpful! I'll have a think about it. I'm selling the car in the next couple of weeks, and I don't expect to get more than £250 for it, so I need to have a think about how much effort/money I want to spend on it. I suspect I may have overtightened it, as I screwed it in initially, but it was leaking water, so tightened it up a bit further, and BANG, no more jet!!

There's nothing left sticking out the hole, it's sheared internally  

Also, its MOT runs out in February, and I'm not sure if it will need any work to pass.

The annoying thing is, our main car is finishing on ebay on Sunday, and we were planning to use the Omega for a few days til we get the money and buy a new car (facelift Omega hopefully!).

I'm still tempted just to epoxy the jet back in. I know it is a bit of a bodge job, but it should run ok.

[Grumpy]

No probs, Mike.
As said previously, your car, your money, your decision.
We're all in different situations, so do what ever you feel
comfortable with.

[speakingclock]

Sounds like you may have lost the banjo washers when removing the jet this would possibly cause a leak. I always loop the washers with cotton to retain them when re-assembling. Good luck.