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[Martin_1962]

There you go, Dan.
James did my 4-pot belt at the Shifnal meet in about 45 mins. and had his eyes open for about 10 of those.

I may have to keep them open a little longer if we attack your stem seals...  

More stem seals - very annoying this!

[shyboy]

It looks that way, Martin.
I may be able to ask James to help me soon as I'm down in the Cotswolds on holiday from 26th. July to 5th August, and may be able to fix up a suitable venue close to him. If so, would you like to join us to watch and learn like me.
James. If this is a possibility I'll PM you about it, but would insist on paying you a proper rate for the job, with no need for indemnity clauses or such like. No freebies this time!
Bill.

[Mr Skrunts]

Right!! im taking the plunge later on and doing the 4 pot cambelt!  :-/ What tools will I need? any advice or tips before I start entering unchartered territory??

 :-/

Did you fit it then, or did you have a lazy day in the Pub.  

[Andy B]

It looks that way, Martin.
I may be able to ask James to help me soon as I'm down in the Cotswolds on holiday from 26th. July to 5th August, and may be able to fix up a suitable venue close to him. If so, would you like to join us to watch and learn like me.
James. If this is a possibility I'll PM you about it, but would insist on paying you a proper rate for the job, with no need for indemnity clauses or such like. No freebies this time!
Bill.

Has an easier/cheaper method been found that leaves your heads on? Or are you is somebody going to do it the long way & remove the heads?
It just seems an expense for the sake of £30(?) of valve stem seals.  

[psychnurse]

Right!! im taking the plunge later on and doing the 4 pot cambelt!  :-/ What tools will I need? any advice or tips before I start entering unchartered territory??

 :-/

Did you fit it then, or did you have a lazy day in the Pub.  

Well mate ..... I was all set to go and do battle but nodded off!! As I am working tonight.... but now I am not working tonight as when I woke up my face felt like the elephant mans! I have neuralgia! And it is a Bastar* It is killing!!

Had a chat with the Gp over the phone and has arranged a script so gotta go and pick that up now! So the belt is off for today.... may try tommorow if I can dose up with analgesia and manage the breakthrough pain.  

[Entwood]

Nasty .. hope you feel better by tomorrow  

[shyboy]

It looks that way, Martin.
I may be able to ask James to help me soon as I'm down in the Cotswolds on holiday from 26th. July to 5th August, and may be able to fix up a suitable venue close to him. If so, would you like to join us to watch and learn like me.
James. If this is a possibility I'll PM you about it, but would insist on paying you a proper rate for the job, with no need for indemnity clauses or such like. No freebies this time!
Bill.

Has an easier/cheaper method been found that leaves your heads on? Or are you is somebody going to do it the long way & remove the heads?
It just seems an expense for the sake of £30(?) of valve stem seals.  [/quote
It would be a big job, Andy, but I'd do the cambelt etc. and lap the valves in to do a real belt and braces job of it. it isn't an emergency job so can fit in with other commitments as necessary.
Hope you and Annette are keeping well and using your own electricity.  
Bill.

[shyboy]

Sorry to hi-jack your thread, Dan. Hope you feel better soon.

[psychnurse]

No worries matey   Hi-jack as you like... far more interesting that way  

[Mr Skrunts]

Sounds painfull matey, hope it all subsides soon.   :-/

[Andy B]

.....
Hope you and Annette are keeping well and using your own electricity.  
Bill.

Thanks Bill. Both of us are well!
So far next door don't seem to have noticed our extension lead coming out of the back of their garage!        

[JamesV6CDX]

are you is somebody going to do it the long way & remove the heads?

To get at the stem seals anyway you would need to remove bagpipes, plenum, cambelt, inlet, cams, camcovers, pretty much everything but the heads anyway.

So - why would Bill be a cowboy about it, when with just a little more work you can have the insurance of knowing that the valves are re-lapped, and that the head gaskets, all coolant seals/gaskets, and exhaust manifold gaskets/studs are renewed, and good for tens of thousands of miles

[Andy B]

are you is somebody going to do it the long way & remove the heads?

To get at the stem seals anyway you would need to remove bagpipes, plenum, cambelt, inlet, cams, camcovers, pretty much everything but the heads anyway.

So - why would Bill be a cowboy about it, when with just a little more work you can have the insurance of knowing that the valves are re-lapped, and that the head gaskets, all coolant seals/gaskets, and exhaust manifold gaskets/studs are renewed, and good for tens of thousands of miles

I never ever suggested a cowboy job James. I was merely stateing that NOT having to remove heads to replace valve stem seals would prevent the need & cost of  removing heads. I'm sure that the car would be good for many thousands of miles whether the valves were re-lapped in or not. This, afterall, is a car that rarely gets any where near the red line!
I'd completely agree with you James if this was a very high milage car .... but it's not.

[HerefordElite]

What is this misinformation about tensioning tools - the tensioner has a mark and an arrow for new and used belts - just turn the tensioner with the alan key until the arrow is on the new mark, and the job's done.

Tools needed

15mm spanner for aux tensioner
E10 socket for crank pulley bolts
17mm socket for turning crank
Deep reach 10mm socket for cambelt cover bolt
5mm (I think) hex bit for water pump
Alan key for tensioner (5mm again?)
13mm ring spanner for tensioner
13mm socket and small extension bar for idlers
Mallet to beat water pump out

With the tension set and new belt fitted, turn the engine through a complete revolution and re-set the tension, it will need re-setting. Then turn the engine a few times and make sure each time when you come back to TDC everything is as it should be.

Use a little grease on the back of the crank pulley when refitting.

You'll also need a torquewrench, from memory the important ones are

25nm water pump bolts
25nm cambelt idlers
20nm cambelt tensioner
6nm cambelt cover bolts
 
If you get stuck, yell

sorry just me talking cr#p i thought it was a bit like my old MkII chavalier's SOHC just trying to be helpful

[psychnurse]

What is this misinformation about tensioning tools - the tensioner has a mark and an arrow for new and used belts - just turn the tensioner with the alan key until the arrow is on the new mark, and the job's done.

Tools needed

15mm spanner for aux tensioner
E10 socket for crank pulley bolts
17mm socket for turning crank
Deep reach 10mm socket for cambelt cover bolt
5mm (I think) hex bit for water pump
Alan key for tensioner (5mm again?)
13mm ring spanner for tensioner
13mm socket and small extension bar for idlers
Mallet to beat water pump out

With the tension set and new belt fitted, turn the engine through a complete revolution and re-set the tension, it will need re-setting. Then turn the engine a few times and make sure each time when you come back to TDC everything is as it should be.

Use a little grease on the back of the crank pulley when refitting.

You'll also need a torquewrench, from memory the important ones are

25nm water pump bolts
25nm cambelt idlers
20nm cambelt tensioner
6nm cambelt cover bolts
 
If you get stuck, yell

sorry just me talking cr#p i thought it was a bit like my old MkII chavalier's SOHC just trying to be helpful

It helped me mate. Didnt know what it was or how to do it... but all info is great. The more I find out then hopfully the more I try and retain.