You don't want the same braking power on the rear as you have on the front, especially under heavy breaking. The weight is transfered to the front, the rear becomes lighter and as a result has less traction. This results in less braking force required to stop the rear wheels turning and they will lock up surprisingly easily.
I had an example of this in a Carlton I had several years back.
An oil hose had split and was lightly spraying out an oily mist that ended up on the front discs. As I approached a set of traffic light on an A road, the lights changed and as I was driving into low sun I didn't notice the amber, just the red. It was soon enough to stop safely but as I braked only slightly harder than I would have normally, the car slowed and then reacted as if I had yanked the handbreak up. The rear came around and I ended up at a 90 degree angle to the direction I was originaly heading.

A certain part of my anatomy went from the size of a sixpence to the size of a manhole cover and back again several times. I had no idea what had caused this so I pulled over to the side and started going over the car. That's when I noticed the light coating of oil all over the engine bay and the inside walls of the front tyres and realised what had happened.
Correct brake balance is critical on a road car. Yes, rally cars etc can switch the front/rear bias as required but that's totally different situation to your local high street. Omega brakes that are operating correctly are as good as you could ask for.
Take a look at most sports bikes. Twin discs on the front and one on the rear.
Also read the blurb on the back of a box of sintered brake pads. It states that sintered pads should never be used on the rear if they are not fitted to the front as this will result in brake imbalance
It's ok to use sintered all round or just on the front and standard on the rear.
Sorry, I think I'm going on a bit !!
