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[unlucky alf]

sounds just like the good old days when my late father done MOT`s when common sense prevailed, not like some of the garages out to make a "kwik" buck so to speak

[tmx]

I use BT Fleet for MOT's  

[unlucky alf]

the one i use are rather good, a mug of coffee while im sitting in the car shaking the steering, handbrake pulling etc, & they dont rev the nuts out of it for the emissions test & a free retest within 10 days i think it is [could be 14 days], not that ive needed a retest as yet

[Seth]

im pretty sure there is a hole through the brake disc assy whereas you can adjust the shoes up, ive never done them on a miggy as yet but as the setup is the same [i think] as the senators etc & they had the inspection/adjustment hole on the front of the disc, get the hole [if there is one] to the top & shine a torch through, the adjuster should be there if my memory serves me. :-/

Yep, set-up is the same as the Carlton/Senator models.

On the nearside, the access hole needs to be positioned at roughly '5 mins to the hour' and the adjusting wheel is turned upwards to tighten.
Offside hole position is roughly '5 past the hour' and turn adjuster wheel DOWNWARDS to tighten.
Shoe return spring fits snugly into the adjuster-wheel grooves to prevent the adjustment backing-off (or on ... !).

Haynes manual has good pics of the rear brake set-up.

[TECHNOPUG]

im pretty sure there is a hole through the brake disc assy whereas you can adjust the shoes up, ive never done them on a miggy as yet but as the setup is the same [i think] as the senators etc & they had the inspection/adjustment hole on the front of the disc, get the hole [if there is one] to the top & shine a torch through, the adjuster should be there if my memory serves me. :-/

Yep, set-up is the same as the Carlton/Senator models.

On the nearside, the access hole needs to be positioned at roughly '5 mins to the hour' and the adjusting wheel is turned upwards to tighten.
Offside hole position is roughly '5 past the hour' and turn adjuster wheel DOWNWARDS to tighten.
Shoe return spring fits snugly into the adjuster-wheel grooves to prevent the adjustment backing-off (or on ... !).

Haynes manual has good pics of the rear brake set-up.

So......in that case, if I move the handbrake to the position that I want it to bite (say, 6 clicks for example), it's then just a case of tightening each wheel as far as they will go?

[Kevin Wood]

So......in that case, if I move the handbrake to the position that I want it to bite (say, 6 clicks for example), it's then just a case of tightening each wheel as far as they will go?

The wheel adjusters should not be used to take up slack in the cable, as they would if adjusted as you describe. With the cable totally slack, the wheel adjusters should be set so that the brake is just binding, and then slackened off until it's free.

The central adjuster under the handbrake lever is then used to take out any slack in the cable and provide the desired "biting point".

Kevin

[Seth]

Look on page 2 of 'Maintenance Guides' section.

MarksDTM posted an excellent jobbie on 29 Feb.
Follow this, and you shouldn't go wrong ... !

[TECHNOPUG]

Cheers - I'll have another read through it

[VX1]

You can adjust the handbrake cable by getting underneath and removing the heatshield and have long arms to get to the adjusting nuts. The cable could also be stretched which won't make any difference to the adjustment. Yes you can adjust the hanbrake shoes but if they are worn then you have wasted your time in doing this, it might be easier to take the wheels off and discs and just check the condition of the shoes.

Paul  

[TECHNOPUG]

So can the handbrake be adjusted at both the caliper AND handbrake end??

Also, why does the car have seperate internal brake shoes for the handbrake, rather than just a cable pulling the calipers?

 [smiley=undecided.gif]

[Kevin Wood]

So can the handbrake be adjusted at both the caliper AND handbrake end??

Also, why does the car have seperate internal brake shoes for the handbrake, rather than just a cable pulling the calipers?

 [smiley=undecided.gif]

Handbrakes that work on Disc brake calipers aren't great. The pad area is small so you need a mechanism that will exert a lot of force and maintain it while the disc cools and contracts.

Drum shoes have a large surface area so only need a small clamping force to provide reasonable braking, easily provided by a cable and a simple mechanism. As the drum cools down it contracts and increases the braking force. This means your car doesn't roll away as the brakes cool.

The Omega setup gives the best of both worlds - disc brake for sevice braking and drum brake for parking brake - at the expense of some extra weight.

Kevin

[TECHNOPUG]

Clever......

Used to light-weight cars, so probably didn't have so much of an issue with weight exert pressure on the parkign brake.

[Marks DTM Calib]

You certainly do NOT setup Omega handbrakes like that!

You must follow as per the maintenance guide and not take such a short cut !

sadly to many garages etc do take the short cut and the result is something that works very short term an then fails quickly after!

[TECHNOPUG]

You certainly do NOT setup Omega handbrakes like that!

You must follow as per the maintenance guide and not take such a short cut !

sadly to many garages etc do take the short cut and the result is something that works very short term an then fails quickly after!

I feel like a scolded child  [smiley=cry.gif]

[unlucky alf]

i was always told shoes first til they just rub then adjust cable to get the desired amount of notches on handbrake.