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[Lizzie_Zoom]

I'd go for it - I'm not that clued up on engines and I managed.  I spent a fairly long time over it though, double checking everything on the way.  Just take your time, and be prepared for the air to turn blue when you do the passenger side - definitely do the drivers side second.  It's much more rewarding that way round.
I didn't move the scuttle - maybe the wires would move further if I had done?  Still, I got the passenger side one in place on about the 6th attempt.

Don't buy all the gaskets in the How To - just the necessary ones.  There's one set which will set you back 60 odd quid which you don't need.

Buy a can of carb cleaner from halfrauds to clear the breathers.  I did the throttle body while I was in there too.

LABEL ALL THE LEADS!!!  I did, badly, and then had a right carry on involving a very early rise the next day to take the plenum off again to rearrange most the leads to get the car to turn over again.

Go for it - and best of luck.  I have to say that the only reason I did it myself was that I knew where to come to get help (and judging by the 'Top 10 Saddo Oofers' - it's a round the clock service  )

You are right on both accounts Jester!! 8-) 8-) 8-)

1. The head to intake gaskets (x3 linked in two's) are £10 plus each and I found were not required on this occassion.

2.  There is always somebody on Forum to give you answers on any problems you may encounter.

 

[Kate]

Thanks for all your advice!

Can some tell how much the total cost of all the required gaskets would be?

[JamesV6CDX]

Overtightening the bolts to try and "cure" a leak is something many people try and is never sucesfull. Due to the application of rubber gaskets the torque needed is extremely low, so tightening has no benefits.

So now, before you even think about fixing the leak, you need to fix this snapped bolt, or you are fighting a losing battle. It will never seal properly with a bolt missing.

You MAY be able to get the bolt out, but depends entirely on how much thread left there is. Best to get as much access as possible by removing the camcover. If you're lucky, you'll be able to get something on the bolt and wind it out.

If you're unlucky, it will have snapped of flush with the camshaft bearing shell. If this has happened you'll need to remove the bearing shell (in oder to stop swarf entering the hydraulic lifters and the engine) and get the thread in the shell drilled/tapped (I'm not sure helicoils go that low, but I could well be wrong)

Once that's fixed, you need to replace the gaskets. If you don't use hand tools often and don't have a "calibrated" hand, you need to use a torque wrench to get an even and consistent torque on all the bolts. If you don't, the job wasn't worth doing because it will leak again soon.

As discussed already you need to stay away from ebay gasket kits for camcovers - they may be a third of the price, but you'll be replacing them every few weeks  (yes, pattern camcover gaskets are that bad)

The answer to this question is YES you can do this job, and you can do it yourself, but you need to be methodical with your approach, not cut corners with substandard parts (I've been in the same boat, made the same mistake and learned the hard way), and make sure you use a torquewrench on the bolts.

Do not think once the gaskets are changed the job's done - you need to entirely clean out the crankcase breather system also, as per the maintenance guide on here.

Good luck with the repair.....

[JamesV6CDX]

Thanks for all your advice!

Can some tell how much the total cost of all the required gaskets would be?

As discussed in PM, trade price for

*Camcover gaskets, both sides

*O rings - you only need 16, but at 15p each I get a couple of extras in case I lose one

*Sealing compound

is £67.48 including VAT.

I still have the reciept here for when I bought the set for this job...

Part numbers are -

seal rings, 90411826
compound, 90485251
Gaskets 90511451

[Lizzie_Zoom]

Thanks for all your advice!

Can some tell how much the total cost of all the required gaskets would be?

£79-60 inc Vat with TC.  Assumming you do not buy the lower head mounting inlet gaskets but includes TOP inlet O-rings.

[Kate]

Overtightening the bolts to try and "cure" a leak is something many people try and is never sucesfull. Due to the application of rubber gaskets the torque needed is extremely low, so tightening has no benefits.

So now, before you even think about fixing the leak, you need to fix this snapped bolt, or you are fighting a losing battle. It will never seal properly with a bolt missing.

You MAY be able to get the bolt out, but depends entirely on how much thread left there is. Best to get as much access as possible by removing the camcover. If you're lucky, you'll be able to get something on the bolt and wind it out.

If you're unlucky, it will have snapped of flush with the camshaft bearing shell. If this has happened you'll need to remove the bearing shell (in oder to stop swarf entering the hydraulic lifters and the engine) and get the thread in the shell drilled/tapped (I'm not sure helicoils go that low, but I could well be wrong)

Once that's fixed, you need to replace the gaskets. If you don't use hand tools often and don't have a "calibrated" hand, you need to use a torque wrench to get an even and consistent torque on all the bolts. If you don't, the job wasn't worth doing because it will leak again soon.

As discussed already you need to stay away from ebay gasket kits for camcovers - they may be a third of the price, but you'll be replacing them every few weeks  (yes, pattern camcover gaskets are that bad)

The answer to this question is YES you can do this job, and you can do it yourself, but you need to be methodical with your approach, not cut corners with substandard parts (I've been in the same boat, made the same mistake and learned the hard way), and make sure you use a torquewrench on the bolts.

Do not think once the gaskets are changed the job's done - you need to entirely clean out the crankcase breather system also, as per the maintenance guide on here.

Good luck with the repair.....

Thanks very much James for your expert advice.

[JamesV6CDX]

Overtightening the bolts to try and "cure" a leak is something many people try and is never sucesfull. Due to the application of rubber gaskets the torque needed is extremely low, so tightening has no benefits.

So now, before you even think about fixing the leak, you need to fix this snapped bolt, or you are fighting a losing battle. It will never seal properly with a bolt missing.

You MAY be able to get the bolt out, but depends entirely on how much thread left there is. Best to get as much access as possible by removing the camcover. If you're lucky, you'll be able to get something on the bolt and wind it out.

If you're unlucky, it will have snapped of flush with the camshaft bearing shell. If this has happened you'll need to remove the bearing shell (in oder to stop swarf entering the hydraulic lifters and the engine) and get the thread in the shell drilled/tapped (I'm not sure helicoils go that low, but I could well be wrong)

Once that's fixed, you need to replace the gaskets. If you don't use hand tools often and don't have a "calibrated" hand, you need to use a torque wrench to get an even and consistent torque on all the bolts. If you don't, the job wasn't worth doing because it will leak again soon.

As discussed already you need to stay away from ebay gasket kits for camcovers - they may be a third of the price, but you'll be replacing them every few weeks  (yes, pattern camcover gaskets are that bad)

The answer to this question is YES you can do this job, and you can do it yourself, but you need to be methodical with your approach, not cut corners with substandard parts (I've been in the same boat, made the same mistake and learned the hard way), and make sure you use a torquewrench on the bolts.

Do not think once the gaskets are changed the job's done - you need to entirely clean out the crankcase breather system also, as per the maintenance guide on here.

Good luck with the repair.....

Just to add to my post above -

When you remove the bearing shell - it's imperative to remember that, because it's line-bored to the specific engine at manufacture, you need to

1) ensure you fit it the same way it came off - same direction
2) Tighten to 8nm only, using a torquewrence.

It's not too likely and extreme, but incorrectly positioned shells could cause camshaft damage.. .

[Kate]

I“m really feeling the pinch with this credit crunch and everything so even buying the gaskets is a problem.

Just got an electricity for 202 quid and expect the gas bill to be more.

My landlord said that if I don“t pay off some rent arrears then they will send a notice seeking possesion.

Sorry just needed a moan

[scooby_doo_do]

do you know roughly how long this takes to do, for a first timer. Thanks

[Kate]

Can someone tell me which are the essential bits to buy and how much they cost without a tc? Thanks!

[Lizzie_Zoom]

Can someone tell me which are the essential bits to buy and how much they cost without a tc? Thanks!

The essential bits that to do this job properly on your 2.5V6 Kate is

Cam Cover Gaskets x2      Vx No.  090511451      56.70  ex. Vat
Small O-ring seals x16       Vx No   090411826        2.40    "
Sealing Compound             Vx No  090485251        3.64     "
Plenium/Intake O-rings       Vx No  009118135      11.80     "

Total                                                                  74.54     "
                                                                         87.58  Inc Vat

You may get away with not needing the:
Plenium/Intake O-rings       Vx No  009118135      11.80   ex. Vat
(re-use existing)                                                              - 13.87  Inc. Vat

Thus, with no Trade Discount cheapest   Total           73.71  Inc Vat

ALL PRICES CORRECT AT CAFFYN'S ASHFORD ON 14/10/08


Kate, as for the trade discount you just may be able to get some if you get talking to the parts department nicely, as I get trade discount even if a part does not come under Trade Card discount lists.  Worth a try.

Best of luck by the way during these troubling times for you.......I just wish I lived a lot closer to be able to help you!!

[JesterRT]

do you know roughly how long this takes to do, for a first timer. Thanks

I started at about 11am and finished by 4.30pm.  I took ages over everything though.

I reckon I could half that now.  Just getting familiar with the way everything comes apart and goes back together makes a massive difference.  I'm sure others on the forum would be counting time in minutes and not hours.

[Lizzie_Zoom]

do you know roughly how long this takes to do, for a first timer. Thanks

I started at about 11am and finished by 4.30pm.  I took ages over everything though.

I reckon I could half that now.  Just getting familiar with the way everything comes apart and goes back together makes a massive difference.  I'm sure others on the forum would be counting time in minutes and not hours.

You are right!  Third time of dismantling everything I did it in 1.5 hours; first time was four hours.

[ians]

Can someone tell me which are the essential bits to buy and how much they cost without a tc? Thanks!

I think there is someone on the forum who supplies parts at trade club prices (postage would be minimal for this stuff).  Alternatively its worth a call to Autovaux in Wakefield.  They DO supply GM gaskets but you need to be clear that is what you want and they will give a discount (5-10%) to OOF.

Good luck
Ian

[Kate]

Well thanks very much for all your advice.

I think I'll stop using the car for now and save up the money for the gaskets.

Still not sure about doing it myself though!  It does look really complicated!