right, just to re assure, this was in the end, a doddle...All things being relative of course. if youve never done a cam belt before ( i have) then you may not think the same way.
The locking kit(Thanks again Ians) takes all the stress out of the job( i did not have a Locking kit when i did my 2.5 and did not know any better,in my pre forum days)
The non adjutable bottom tensioner is, i found, alot easier than the 2.5 i had previosly. It cant be fitted incorrectly, my only concerne was fitting the belt to toothed wheels locked into a tensioned position. no need to worry, i put the belt onto cam wheels 3 4 down onto the bottom guide pulley and then onto the crank then up onto the tensioner to hold it, then feeling the belt on the crank noticeing that the belt is not sitting in the teeth correctly, i then pulled the belt along its run, clokwise in my case, by grabbing the belt by hand left of the tensioner and leaning/pushing down on it(ie if the belt slipped, which it wouldnt, i would have punched the alternator) the belt litteraly just popped on to the teeth on the crank wheel. then just fit the rest of the belt and adjust cams 1 2 to take out the slack, tension, do a rev or 2 to check and go from there.
With belt fitted i found 1 and 2 where about 2 mill out, adjusted checked all spot on but more importantly 3 and 4 where perfectly in line from the off, could not fault it.
So to sum up, its easier, in my experience...
A. with the locking kit, obviusly.
B with a non adjustable bottom tensioner.
In the end the main agro was taking the Plenum and intakes off to get at it all, short plenum stays on.
i can see why they have cam belt parties now, its a pleasure to do with a locking kit.
Thankyou all for your help.the car now runs noticeably smoother and with better tick over. Special mentions to IANS, JAMES V6 CDX, ALEXANDJEN and ANDYB
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Topic: 3.2 cam belt bottom pulley not adjustable. (Read 2212 times)