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[vauxomegaelite]

That is correct the wind back ones are for the hand brake built into the calipper .

The reason for the bleed sequence is to get all the air out and stopping the pedal from feeling spongey

[Andy B]

....

The reason for the bleed sequence is to get all the air out and stopping the pedal from feeling spongey

You don't say!

But the sequence you gave would have been the sequence I'd have used if I hadn't read a Haynes manual. What I meant was, I doubt that in the real world if the sequences  that Haynes quote would make that much difference ie older car sequence or newer car sequence, neither of which were as you you suggested. 

[hotel21]

When you do brakes always take the brake fluid resevior cap off as it can reverse the seals in the master cylinder (never good) on fronts what you need in a set of swan neck or water pump grips, as for the rear on some cars they have to be wound back in, piston wind back tools are only about £15  for a half decent one. just remember if you undo the bleed nipples to bleed all the brakes once its finished, starting with the rear one oposite side from the master cylinder first then the other rear and then the front oposite the master cylinder follwed by the last remaining one,
Sorry to all those who know how to carry this out(not trying to teach people to suck eggs) but hopefuly stop people who havent done it before from having a  possible accident due to unsafe brakes.

No winding in tool required for either front or rears on an Omega.
For what ever reason, the bleeding sequence on an Omega is different depending on the year. 

up to 98 - 3 channel system
front nearside
front off side
rear near side
rear off side

after 98 - 4 channel system
rear near side
front off side
rear off side
front near side
all according to Mr Haynes & not really too sure what difference it would make in practice.  :-/

My understanding is that the last one to be done is the one nearest the master cylinder, with the first the furthest away.  In between is a best guess as to pipe length, longest first, shortest last....

[mrgreen]

just to ask a silly question when you release say just one nipple you don't need to re-bleed all the brakes do you? i always imagined just the one you released would need re-bleeding?

[Andy B]

..... when you release say just one nipple you don't need to re-bleed all the brakes do you?

no

i always imagined just the one you released would need re-bleeding?

correct. 

[hotel21]

just to ask a silly question when you release say just one nipple you don't need to re-bleed all the brakes do you? i always imagined just the one you released would need re-bleeding?

True, but, as a belt and braces, better once than several time type person, I generally bleed the lot.  Does not take too long and you know that the fluid is brand new and not subject to a flush in a few months...   

[Andy B]

....I generally bleed the lot.  Does not take too long ....

That's what I was doing when I sheared the nipple in the rear slave cylinder. It took another couple of hours after I'd driven miles to the nearest dealer that stocked it.

[TheBoy]

I think it changed (bleed sequence) when the ABS changed to fully independent.

In reality, whilst it makes sense to do longest first, as long as no air gets in, I suspect it doesn't matter...

[Kevin Wood]

I usually figure that it's time to do a (partial, at least) fluid change whenever the brakes need attention, so I'll always open the bleed nipple, let the old fluid out while winding back the pistons, then suck out all the old fluid in the reservoir, replace with fresh and bleed a little through whatever end of the system I'm working on.

Opening the bleed nipples at least every 2 years is enough to ensure they don't sieze, IME. As you sow, so shall ye reap.

.. and whilst it can be done without a spreader tool, it's much easier with one, and it ensures the pistons are pushed back true. For the cost, it's a no-brainer IMHO.