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[Lazydocker]

MAP  0.8 bar approx

This concerns me. Is this the reading you get with the engine idling? Should be more like 0.3-0.35 IME.

Worth checking out the vacuum feed to the pressure sensor and vapouriser?

Me also  :-/

Am I looking for a leak / bad conection ?
If it was a leaking pipe, wouldn't it be too low ?

Dodgy pressure / temp sensor supplied with the kit ?

If the reading is right, what would cause it to be so high ?

Am I going to be baned for being a pain in the arse ?

Yes!

I would say that a dodgy sensor is last on the list... Possible but unlikely

You need to trace back through your connections and make sure they are all accurate... I would be looking for a mistake on the vacuum connections personally

Where have you picked up the vac reference? from the main servo to plenum pipe? have you got the vac reference from the vaporiser to the sensor right? Any kinks in the pipes?

[Lazydocker]

Also, if the MAP reading isn't changing at all through the rev range you've taken the connection from the wrong place... i.e. it must have a reservoir to keep it that stable which defeats the object of having the reference

[Kevin Wood]

Me also  :-/

Am I looking for a leak / bad conection ?
If it was a leaking pipe, wouldn't it be too low ?

Dodgy pressure / temp sensor supplied with the kit ?

If the reading is right, what would cause it to be so high ?

Am I going to be baned for being a pain in the arse ?

It's an absolute pressure, so if it would be open to atmosphere it would read 1. A vacuum would be 0. The intake manifold is always somewhere between the two. Normally, it idle, the throttle is almost closed, so the engine pulls a strong vacuum. As I say, typically around 0.3 BAR. At full throttle it will increase to 1 BAR.

So, first thing to do is to check the wiring and plumbing to both ports on the pressure sensor. Also check that the correct sensor is selected in the LPG ECU software. If that all looks OK then, yes, a leak into the vacuum line would be a possibility. If you've Tee'd the LPG vacuum into the feed from the brake servo pipe it could also be down to a leak in the multiram vacuum system or the brake servo pipe itself, which has a habit of getting chafed.

[tigers_gonads]

MAP  0.8 bar approx

This concerns me. Is this the reading you get with the engine idling? Should be more like 0.3-0.35 IME.

Worth checking out the vacuum feed to the pressure sensor and vapouriser?

Me also  :-/

Am I looking for a leak / bad conection ?
If it was a leaking pipe, wouldn't it be too low ?

Dodgy pressure / temp sensor supplied with the kit ?

If the reading is right, what would cause it to be so high ?

Am I going to be baned for being a pain in the arse ?

Yes!

  swmbo says its my middle name 

I would say that a dodgy sensor is last on the list... Possible but unlikely

You need to trace back through your connections and make sure they are all accurate... I would be looking for a mistake on the vacuum connections personally

Where have you picked up the vac reference? from the main servo to plenum pipe? have you got the vac reference from the vaporiser to the sensor right? Any kinks in the pipes?

I've tapped a brass nozzle into the plenum between the icv and the brake servo pipe.
From the plenum to the sensor then into the reducer  :-/

[tigers_gonads]

Me also  :-/

Am I looking for a leak / bad conection ?
If it was a leaking pipe, wouldn't it be too low ?

Dodgy pressure / temp sensor supplied with the kit ?

If the reading is right, what would cause it to be so high ?

Am I going to be baned for being a pain in the arse ?

It's an absolute pressure, so if it would be open to atmosphere it would read 1. A vacuum would be 0. The intake manifold is always somewhere between the two. Normally, it idle, the throttle is almost closed, so the engine pulls a strong vacuum. As I say, typically around 0.3 BAR. At full throttle it will increase to 1 BAR.

So, first thing to do is to check the wiring and plumbing to both ports on the pressure sensor. Also check that the correct sensor is selected in the LPG ECU software. If that all looks OK then, yes, a leak into the vacuum line would be a possibility. If you've Tee'd the LPG vacuum into the feed from the brake servo pipe it could also be down to a leak in the multiram vacuum system or the brake servo pipe itself, which has a habit of getting chafed.

Oh sh*t, i'll check 


CT-04-2K ( included in kit )   Thats what it says on the synchro settings page 
Is that right  :-/

[tigers_gonads]

Were have you lads taken the vac feed from on your cars ?

[Kevin Wood]

That's the temperature sensor. Pressure sensor is normally a PS-01 IIRC. Might not even be adjustable in the software. I can't remember.

Good that you have a separate nozzle in the plenum. That's the best way, IMHO.

What you could do is to watch the map reading with the engine stopped. Disconnect the pipe from the nozzle and suck on it as hard as you can. You should see 1 BAR with the pipe open and a good suck will take it down to perhaps 0.5-0.6. You should also be able to feel if there's a leak.

[tigers_gonads]

I'll have a look later and report back 

Swmbo is stood by the front door demanding to be taken shopping 

[tigers_gonads]

I found it 

When I had bolted the plenum down, I had managed to nick and tear the vacuum pipe which is routed underneath the plenum on its way to the pressure sensor 

At least I know its gonna work properly when ..................... I adjust the reducer 

After I replaced the pipe, I had a steady 1.1 bar on the gas / 0.32 on the map at idle

Took it for a 20 mile mapping run.  First time round the circuit on petrol then back round on gas.
There is a bit of a gap between petrol and gas ( about 5mm on the graph / mid to top rev range ) but I noticed that the gas pressure was down to 0.95 bar at idle when we stopped. 
During the gas part of the map, I floored it and let the revs climb up past the gas cut of point ( 6000 rpm ) with no flashing eml    Just a little down on power above about 4000 rpm.

Am I right that this was just the reducers internals bedding in and I can now tweek up the pressure at the reducer  :-/

[Kevin Wood]

Yep, tweak the reducer pressure back up and have another tweak of the map/ Sounds like you're getting there now.

[tigers_gonads]

Yep, tweak the reducer pressure back up and have another tweak of the map/ Sounds like you're getting there now.

Happy days 

Might need a boat / big wellies to get to the car
Its pishing down here 

Where abouts on the reducer is the adjusting screw ?
Its the twin output KME Gold one as supplied by teilo 

[Kevin Wood]

Yep, tweak the reducer pressure back up and have another tweak of the map/ Sounds like you're getting there now.

Happy days 

Might need a boat / big wellies to get to the car
Its pishing down here 

Where abouts on the reducer is the adjusting screw ?
Its the twin output KME Gold one as supplied by teilo 

I'm not familiar with that reducer. IIRC It's an allen-headed grub screw in the front face of the reducer.

[Lazydocker]

As Kevin said, Allen key required (4mm iirc) in the raised section. Can't remember which way you need to go but I do remember that it's the opposite way to the older reducer Remember that there will be a delay between adjusting it and the software showing that adjustment so go slowly and wait 30s or so (until the reading settles again) before adjusting more.

Don't forget to run the auto calibration again

[tigers_gonads]

As Kevin said, Allen key required (4mm iirc) in the raised section. Can't remember which way you need to go but I do remember that it's the opposite way to the older reducer Remember that there will be a delay between adjusting it and the software showing that adjustment so go slowly and wait 30s or so (until the reading settles again) before adjusting more.

Don't forget to run the auto calibration again

Thanks all
I'll have a play later 

[Kevin Wood]

FYI Older reducer was clockwise to increase pressure.