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[aaronjb]

I don't see it asked, but - on the vague/wandery feeling, two questions:

1) What tyres are you running?
2) Have you looked at the rear subframe donut bushes at all?

The knocking I can't help with .. mine knocks like a sod but I'm assuming it's the drop links until I change them

[05omegav6]

The knocking I can't help with .. mine knocks like a sod but I'm assuming it's the drop links until I change them

Poly bushed new arms on mine hoping to cure clonking. Turned out the droplinks were also shot. Still at about £10 each, might be worth ruling them out

No mention of steering idler either

[feeutfo]

I'm quite sure the wandering vagueness and catch up sensations will go with set up complete. But as the op says there is little point in set up until the fault has been found, although if it is drop links knocking they won't affect set up at all. Symptoms could well be drop link play, easily spotted with both wheels jacked on stands, and wiggle the roll bar ends. You'll feel any play by hand.
Steering idler play would be obvious surely...?

[05omegav6]

I'm quite sure the wandering vagueness and catch up sensations will go with set up complete. But as the op says there is little point in set up until the fault has been found, although if it is drop links knocking they won't affect set up at all. Symptoms could well be drop link play, easily spotted with both wheels jacked on stands, and wiggle the roll bar ends. You'll feel any play by hand.
Steering idler play would be obvious surely...?

True. But no mention of it having been changed. Also wonder what state the rear shocks/springs are in? Alot of time/effort seems to have gone into the front struts/arms with no thought to the other bits.

[Terbs]

Got bonking noises at the front of mine ....its been up on the lift and the droplink one side is suspect. Do they come in pairs or can you get them singly?
I notice from a previous post they are only about a tenner, so is it worth doing both sides, although the other one was pronounced ok

[05omegav6]

I believe they're available individually, but at only 5ish mins a side, might as well do both.

Sure one of us could do them on the 5th for you.

[i260]

I'm quite sure the wandering vagueness and catch up sensations will go with set up complete. But as the op says there is little point in set up until the fault has been found, although if it is drop links knocking they won't affect set up at all. Symptoms could well be drop link play, easily spotted with both wheels jacked on stands, and wiggle the roll bar ends. You'll feel any play by hand.
Steering idler play would be obvious surely...?

True. But no mention of it having been changed. Also wonder what state the rear shocks/springs are in? Alot of time/effort seems to have gone into the front struts/arms with no thought to the other bits.

Sorry for being away for a while - lets catch up with the comments!

Sorry if it was not obvious from the start of the thread (and other threads that I have done) - the rears DO have matching B8's and Steinmetz springs. A wholy dangerous thing to have just done the fronts to this spec!

The rear donut bushes were done last year.

New droplinks were installed as the first attempt to cure this but to no avail.

Steering is slowly getting worse - initially for the first few weeks it was ok but has degraded.

If I leave the car for a few days and then take it out the knocking takes a while to return - as though is has set into position and gets knocked into being out of position.

I think my first move will be to put the old oem front top bushes and bearings back on to eliminate that option.

Next will be to put the old struts back in and the final option will be to get the old oem wishbones rebushed with gen rubber bushes and poss remove the poly arb bushes.

Step-by-step and we will get there.

At least it should all be easy to undo as it has only just been put on.

I think it has to be some sort imcompatible component as it is knocking on both sides, rather that a single side which would more likely suggest a failed component.

I just need to get a Haynes and hope the weather holds for the weekend.

Could anybody confirm tools for dropping the strut out enough to replace the rubbers? One or two suggestions but they didnt seem to sure of the kt.

Ta.

[i260]

Right - the 24mm seems right however the Billies use a hex key in the top instead of the other spanner. Seems like a 7mm Brake caliper key should work nicely...

[i260]

Before I got to work I decided to jack the wishbone up while the car was on axle stands.

Seems that the noise is coming from the poly bush on either the arb or the wishbones.

Anybody had negative experiences with the poly bush option??

I am thinking that I will get some regular bushes and try put those in next weekend instead of doing the top bush swap today.

[05omegav6]

You could try whipping them out, giving them a good coat of copperslip, and wang them back in. 

See if that cures it

 

[i260]

Should they normally be fitted 'dry' or with some lube??

I can see that if they were fitted dry then they could grip/slip/grip/slip making the noise.

[i260]

I think that I have two separate issues going on here:

1) odd noise from poly bush

2) I have just parked up with the wheels on full lock and then gave the drivers-side wheel/tyre a really good tug / rock and got the car into a bit of a rocking cycle and the feeling back through the wheel was that the wheel / hub was loose, however the wheel itself it certainly tight as I have just put it back on and re-checked the bolts! Possible it is part of the steering joints that have / are giving up (shown up with the car now being lowered??)?

[05omegav6]

Used copperslip when we fitted mine at the Lakes.

Chrisgixer will be the person to ask about tweaked suspension wear.

[Jimbob]

I have something not a million miles away....think youve seen it.

[feeutfo]

I think that I have two separate issues going on here:

1) odd noise from poly bush

2) I have just parked up with the wheels on full lock and then gave the drivers-side wheel/tyre a really good tug / rock and got the car into a bit of a rocking cycle and the feeling back through the wheel was that the wheel / hub was loose, however the wheel itself it certainly tight as I have just put it back on and re-checked the bolts! Possible it is part of the steering joints that have / are giving up (shown up with the car now being lowered??)?

If I understand your post correctly, and your
holding the wheel in 3/9 o'clock position???
And while jacked???
Then that's normal play in the steering box. With engine running, and steering straight that play should disappear as the hydraulics take up the slack. The further away from straight ahead, the worse that play gets.
Does that follow what you where testing...?

Where the pollys greased?