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[Johnny A]

Hey guys,
I don't really post on here but have been a member for ages. I have a 1993 Carlton Estate that i've heavily modified:



I use it as my daily work horse so it gets all the toys and extras, but lowering it so much means if I load the back up with engines/dead bodies etc... I bottom out. So I decided to fit the self leveling rear shockers and use a pump off an Omega to drive them.

I have bought the shockers and the pump, but I need to know which pipes go to where!
Here is the pump itself:


First pipe is here on the end of a large cylinder:


The 2nd pipe is on the side of the electric motor and the 3rd is on the side of a black box:


Also the wiring:
Got 4 wires total,
a solid black (this earths to the motor body)
a black/green (this runs into the motor so +ive feed for motor)
2x black/red (these run into the black box)

The first two are obvious, but is the 2x black/red for releasing pressure?? Can I then assume the black box is a solenoid valve?

Cheers guys

[twiglet]

Hi Johnny, I'm pretty sure my mate Ben was talking about you the other night. WOuld you have got a flywheel for the Carlton from a company called TTV Racing (20-20 Vision)?

Anyway, I think the Carlton is very cool, and good luck with the S/L 

[Johnny A]

Yeah I have had many dealings with Ben @ TTV. Got three of his flywheels, one is bespoke!

[feeutfo]

Guess you'll need a sensor for the rear suspension arm and Ecu to get it working. Along with the air pipes with connectors on....?

Maybe a wanted ad in test zone and admin will probably move it for you. If one of the breakers on here hasn't pm'd you already.

Pump lives in drivers front wing behind foglight on omega. Then single air pipe runs rearward through drivers wing, along fuel lines to rear where it tees off to each shock.

[Kevin Wood]

ECU is built into the level sensor, IIRC? But it does need to drive the compressor motor through a relay.

I will dig up the wiring diagrams when I get a minute.

[Andy B]

It's a bit late now, you've bought the bits. But why not use the original simple set-up that a Carlton estate had ie a shrader valve in the rear off side of the 'boot' for an airline? 

[twiglet]

It's a bit late now, you've bought the bits. But why not use the original simple set-up that a Carlton estate had ie a shrader valve in the rear off side of the 'boot' for an airline? 

Proper old school! 

[Andy B]

.....

Proper old school! 

but simple!


KISS!! 

[albitz]

I had a kawasaki which had that setup on the front forks and the rear shock.constantly leaked the air out.

[Omegatoy]

It's a bit late now, you've bought the bits. But why not use the original simple set-up that a Carlton estate had ie a shrader valve in the rear off side of the 'boot' for an airline? 

LOL THATS HOW mine is done, sod the noisy compressor and its wiring, as i only need the airshocks when i have a heavy load or am towing, the shcraeder valve takes 30 seconds to set it up exactly how i want it, went one further and put a pressure guage on it so i know when they are full

[Johnny A]

Guess you'll need a sensor for the rear suspension arm and Ecu to get it working. Along with the air pipes with connectors on....?

ECU is built into the level sensor, IIRC? But it does need to drive the compressor motor through a relay.

I don't plan to use the level sensor/ECU combo, I plan to have a simple relay switch system with a pressure gauge mounted on the dash so I know what my max/min pressures are.

why not use the original simple set-up that a Carlton estate had ie a shrader valve in the rear off side of the 'boot' for an airline? 

It's a bit late now, you've bought the bits. But why not use the original simple set-up that a Carlton estate had ie a shrader valve in the rear off side of the 'boot' for an airline? 

LOL THATS HOW mine is done, sod the noisy compressor and its wiring, as i only need the airshocks when i have a heavy load or am towing, the shcraeder valve takes 30 seconds to set it up exactly how i want it, went one further and put a pressure guage on it so i know when they are full

Actually this model had the air suspension on the back from the factory, since then the previous owner replaced the shockers with standard ones but left the plumbing intact....

So why not just use that?? Well half the reason is already explained - I like toys. But the other reason is that I need to be able to raise/lower the rear on the fly for negotiating speedbumps as they catch on the exhaust pipe as it travels under the N/S inner CV joint. We are talking around a 90mm drop here!

Back on topic please!!!

[Andy B]

.....
Back on topic please!!!

I'll consider the back of my legs to have been slapped! 

[Kevin Wood]

Not sure we'd strayed off topic, to be honest.

The problem I see with using the self levelling pump as you describe will be that it's slow to inflate. I doubt you will be able to raise the car in the few seconds you'd need to do so before each speed bump but no harm in trying.

Regarding the plumbing, I believe the connection tot he cylindrical reservoir is the output to the shocks. The intake in to the square box at the other end of the motor and I think the pipe into the motor is probably for cooling. You can probably leave the latter two open if the pump is going to be installed in a clean environment (as opposed to under a wheel arch).

Wire colours (on the car loom) are as follows:

Black - Positive supply to motor.
Brown - Negative supply to motor
Red - Positive supply to bleed off valve
White - Negative supply to bleed off valve.

[Kevin Wood]

Hmm. I can see that the co9lours aren't going to help.

On the 4 pin connector, the inside 2 pins are the positive supplies to the motor and solenoid. Outside 2 pins should be negative for the above. I doubt the polarity of the solenoid matters and yes, it is, as far as I can see, just a solenoid that bleeds air out of the system to lower it.

[feeutfo]

Nah 'dangle berries'. 


That's a bloody ridiculous ride hight. I have seen cars literally take off over bumps doing 60 on the m40, and the entire conents of the car, including driver and passengers, become air born in the cabin with such a set up....dangerous, to you and others, and is the sort of practice that will see the eu ban modifying and diy altogether! There by cocking things up completely for the rest of us!

Plus the pump itself is far too slow for the purpose your using it for. It's designed to fire up on start up and be correct then for that journey until start up again.