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[Webby the Bear]

Cheers Jason and AndyB 

Various people say that you can just change the actual 'stat on a V6 ie you don't need to buy the whole 'stat including the housing however when I changed mine the other week for the first time I'd to destroy my housing to get it to part company with the ally transfer pipe.  Something to bear in mind if you've only got the 2.0's insert, it's Sunday afternoon, all the motor factors are shut and you need the car for work on Monday morning. 

Like most thing, Andy...trying to cut corners or save time and/or money never works  I'll take that advice if I come across the problem! Cheers 

[Crazycarzowner]

With my problem Paul, the temp. gague would only literally move off the baseline & I had very little to no heating inside the cabin. One trip to a fellow OOF member & one thermostat later all was well - Thanks to Elite Pete. If the stat is stuck open then it won't allow the coolant to warm up before it circulates the engine. Therefore the car will run 'cool' all the time and won't heat the internal cabin as its run off the same system. There is no problem as such i.e the car won't over-heat, but it does need sorting especially in this weather when its bloody freezing outside and you've no form of cabin heating.

[albitz]

Ive just bought a genuine stat for mine without the housing for £7. From VX with the housing I believe they are around £60 ?
I do have a couple of spare housings if I muller one though.

[Andy B]

Ive just bought a genuine stat for mine without the housing for £7. From VX with the housing I believe they are around £60 ?
I do have a couple of spare housings if I muller one though.

A genuine 2.0 'stat? 

[albitz]

Yep - which afaik is the same stat as is in the V6 housing.

[PAULCDX]

Thanks for all the replies and advice guy's,

I will get this looked at asap by somebody off here.....

Dan -  Oh yes mate it had to be the V6 lol.......

Will pop it round once fixed 

[Andy B]

Thanks for all the replies and advice guy's,

I will get this looked at asap by somebody off here.....

Dan -  Oh yes mate it had to be the V6 lol.......

Will pop it round once fixed 

Not too difficult to do the job .... I'm sure there's a guide somewhere. As said, the hardest bit is separating the stat housing from the transfer pipe. 

[Omega_Dan]

Thanks for all the replies and advice guy's,

I will get this looked at asap by somebody off here.....

Dan -  Oh yes mate it had to be the V6 lol.......

Will pop it round once fixed 

Im about in the morning. Just pm me mate

[Elite Pete]

Try running the car on tick over on the drive with the aircon off, it might take a while with the outside temps as they are at the moment and see if the temp gauge rises. 

[fiend61]

Try running the car on tick over on the drive with the aircon off, it might take a while with the outside temps as they are at the moment and see if the temp gauge rises

thats excatly what mine is doing pete, so does that point to stat stuck open ??

also there is enough snow on the ground for you to come over to york for cambelt change etc etc 

[Elite Pete]

Try running the car on tick over on the drive with the aircon off, it might take a while with the outside temps as they are at the moment and see if the temp gauge rises

thats excatly what mine is doing pete, so does that point to stat stuck open ??

also there is enough snow on the ground for you to come over to york for cambelt change etc etc 

Yeah, if the gauge rises without airflow through the rad but drops when moving then that would suggest a sticking thermostat.

How deep is the snow Rog, didn't we have about 4 or 5 inches last time, I need at least 3 inches before i'm interested

[PAULCDX]

Thanks Pete,

I will give this a go today,

Cheers, 

[Andy H]

With my problem Paul, the temp. gague would only literally move off the baseline & I had very little to no heating inside the cabin. One trip to a fellow OOF member & one thermostat later all was well - Thanks to Elite Pete. If the stat is stuck open then it won't allow the coolant to warm up before it circulates the engine. Therefore the car will run 'cool' all the time and won't heat the internal cabin as its run off the same system. There is no problem as such i.e the car won't over-heat, but it does need sorting especially in this weather when its bloody freezing outside and you've no form of cabin heating.

Until the engine is properly hot the ECU will keep chucking fuel in to warm the engine up. On a car that struggles to achieve 30 mpg on a good day that is a problem IMO.

When I got my 2.6 I had exactly the same symptoms and was getting 19mpg. I changed the stat and now get 27 mpg.

[PAULCDX]

Hi Pete,

Update   -

I tried what you suggested and yes the temp gauge does rise nicely to 85c without the heating on. As soon as I switch the heating on the temp gauge slowly drops to zero.

Cheers as always,

Paul

[JamesV6CDX]

Did you feel any heat, from heater vents?

The reason it will run warmer on the drive, but cold on a run, is because in these temperatures, the icy cold air cools the coolant in the rad quickly