Omega Owners Forum
Omega Help Area => Omega Electrical and Audio Help => Topic started by: RobG on 08 November 2012, 19:10:28
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Terminal voltage.........................12.48-12.72
Terminal voltage at idle................12.9
Terminal voltage @ 2K.................13.1
Terminal voltage @ 2K with load....12.7
Battery is good (charged & tested on bench, left overnight, minimal voltage drop)
Faulty regulator :-\ :-\ :-\
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Looks low :'(
I'd be thinking more rectifier? Either way, sure you have a complete alternator in your shed?
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Looks low :'(
I'd be thinking more rectifier? Either way, sure you have a complete alternator in your shed?
Thought that was the same thing ???
Nope ;D ;D
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Looks low :'(
I'd be thinking more rectifier? Either way, sure you have a complete alternator in your shed?
Thought that was the same thing ???
Nope ;D ;D
Oooo, actually, is it combined on Omegas.... ...you may be right...
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Looks low :'(
I'd be thinking more rectifier? Either way, sure you have a complete alternator in your shed?
Thought that was the same thing ???
Nope ;D ;D
Oooo, actually, is it combined on Omegas.... ...you may be right...
I hope it is :-\...............in fact I`m pretty sure it is
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The FL alternators (well, the one from my 3.2 at any rate) have a separate rectifier and regulator. Regulator is the bit that fails.
Mine had similar symptoms. Weak charge for a while, then you grind to a halt with every warning light glimmering dimly. ::)
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The FL alternators (well, the one from my 3.2 at any rate) have a separate rectifier and regulator. Regulator is the bit that fails.
Mine had similar symptoms. Weak charge for a while, then you grind to a halt with every warning light glimmering dimly. ::)
Think it`s only the 2.6 & 3.2 with that Kev.
Start a search for a regulator now. Seems strange that my old F/L (2.0) had a 120A alt and regs were easy to come by, but my 2.2 has a 100A and regs seem scarce ???
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The FL alternators (well, the one from my 3.2 at any rate) have a separate rectifier and regulator. Regulator is the bit that fails.
Mine had similar symptoms. Weak charge for a while, then you grind to a halt with every warning light glimmering dimly. ::)
Think it`s only the 2.6 & 3.2 with that Kev.
Start a search for a regulator now. Seems strange that my old F/L (2.0) had a 120A alt and regs were easy to come by, but my 2.2 has a 100A and regs seem scarce ???
Yep, same with the 3.0vs. 3.2. plenty of regs for the older ones, more scarce for the newer.
Check out m.u.r.e on ebay. That's where I got mine. :y
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The FL alternators (well, the one from my 3.2 at any rate) have a separate rectifier and regulator. Regulator is the bit that fails.
Mine had similar symptoms. Weak charge for a while, then you grind to a halt with every warning light glimmering dimly. ::)
Think it`s only the 2.6 & 3.2 with that Kev.
Start a search for a regulator now. Seems strange that my old F/L (2.0) had a 120A alt and regs were easy to come by, but my 2.2 has a 100A and regs seem scarce ???
Yep, same with the 3.0vs. 3.2. plenty of regs for the older ones, more scarce for the newer.
Check out m.u.r.e on ebay. That's where I got mine. :y
Cheers Kev, they`ve got one :y
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I assume you've checked the battery crimps? When breaking down they can give similar symptoms ;) Or check the voltage readings direct from the back of the alternator to confirm/rule out actual alternator fault :y
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I assume you've checked the battery crimps? When breaking down they can give similar symptoms ;) Or check the voltage readings direct from the back of the alternator to confirm/rule out actual alternator fault :y
Yes, good point. Always worth checking the battery terminal crimp as that's a common problem that produces the same symptoms.
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I assume you've checked the battery crimps? When breaking down they can give similar symptoms ;) Or check the voltage readings direct from the back of the alternator to confirm/rule out actual alternator fault :y
Seem intact and only get warm to the touch
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I assume you've checked the battery crimps? When breaking down they can give similar symptoms ;) Or check the voltage readings direct from the back of the alternator to confirm/rule out actual alternator fault :y
Seem intact and only get warm to the touch
Worth checking the voltage direct from the alternator before going too far then... That will prove/rule out any wiring issues :y
Plus it should be easy on a 4 pot... Tunnie keeps telling us it's a superior engine :-X ::) ;D
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I assume you've checked the battery crimps? When breaking down they can give similar symptoms ;) Or check the voltage readings direct from the back of the alternator to confirm/rule out actual alternator fault :y
Seem intact and only get warm to the touch
Worth checking the voltage direct from the alternator before going too far then... That will prove/rule out any wiring issues :y
Plus it should be easy on a 4 pot... Tunnie keeps telling us it's a superior engine :-X ::) ;D
What connections Paul, never done it that way :-\
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I assume you've checked the battery crimps? When breaking down they can give similar symptoms ;) Or check the voltage readings direct from the back of the alternator to confirm/rule out actual alternator fault :y
Seem intact and only get warm to the touch
Worth checking the voltage direct from the alternator before going too far then... That will prove/rule out any wiring issues :y
Plus it should be easy on a 4 pot... Tunnie keeps telling us it's a superior engine :-X ::) ;D
What connections Paul, never done it that way :-\
Biggest cross section will be the live and 0V anywhere metal (preferably close). Basically I'm suggesting you remove the battery from the equation to prove it is Alternator and not battery/crimps etc ;) :y
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'might' still have the alternator from that 2.2 with 37k on the clock, that I broke a while back, boxed up somewhere if you get stuck Rob. :y
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'might' still have the alternator from that 2.2 with 37k on the clock, that I broke a while back, boxed up somewhere if you get stuck Rob. :y
How many pennies if I go down that route :)
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I assume you've checked the battery crimps? When breaking down they can give similar symptoms ;) Or check the voltage readings direct from the back of the alternator to confirm/rule out actual alternator fault :y
Seem intact and only get warm to the touch
If something gets warm, then you have volt drop.
Using a volt meter, Place one probe on the battery + terminal and the other ideally on the + on the alternator. You could also pierce the main + wire also. Any voltage on the meter represents volt drop/ resistance.