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[RobG]

Terminal voltage.........................12.48-12.72
Terminal voltage at idle................12.9
Terminal voltage @ 2K.................13.1
Terminal voltage @ 2K with load....12.7

Battery is good (charged & tested on bench, left overnight, minimal voltage drop)
Faulty regulator

[TheBoy]

Looks low 

I'd be thinking more rectifier?  Either way, sure you have a complete alternator in your shed?

[RobG]

Looks low 

I'd be thinking more rectifier?  Either way, sure you have a complete alternator in your shed?

Thought that was the same thing
Nope

[TheBoy]

Looks low 

I'd be thinking more rectifier?  Either way, sure you have a complete alternator in your shed?

Thought that was the same thing
Nope

Oooo, actually, is it combined on Omegas....  ...you may be right...

[RobG]

Looks low 

I'd be thinking more rectifier?  Either way, sure you have a complete alternator in your shed?

Thought that was the same thing
Nope

Oooo, actually, is it combined on Omegas....  ...you may be right...

I hope it is ...............in fact I`m pretty sure it is

[Kevin Wood]

The FL alternators (well, the one from my 3.2 at any rate) have a separate rectifier and regulator. Regulator is the bit that fails.

Mine had similar symptoms. Weak charge for a while, then you grind to a halt with every warning light glimmering dimly.

[RobG]

The FL alternators (well, the one from my 3.2 at any rate) have a separate rectifier and regulator. Regulator is the bit that fails.

Mine had similar symptoms. Weak charge for a while, then you grind to a halt with every warning light glimmering dimly.

Think it`s only the 2.6 & 3.2 with that Kev.
Start a search for a regulator now. Seems strange that my old F/L (2.0) had a 120A alt and regs were easy to come by, but my 2.2 has a 100A and regs seem scarce

[Kevin Wood]

The FL alternators (well, the one from my 3.2 at any rate) have a separate rectifier and regulator. Regulator is the bit that fails.

Mine had similar symptoms. Weak charge for a while, then you grind to a halt with every warning light glimmering dimly.

Think it`s only the 2.6 & 3.2 with that Kev.
Start a search for a regulator now. Seems strange that my old F/L (2.0) had a 120A alt and regs were easy to come by, but my 2.2 has a 100A and regs seem scarce

Yep, same with the 3.0vs. 3.2. plenty of regs for the older ones, more scarce for the newer.

Check out m.u.r.e on ebay. That's where I got mine.

[RobG]

The FL alternators (well, the one from my 3.2 at any rate) have a separate rectifier and regulator. Regulator is the bit that fails.

Mine had similar symptoms. Weak charge for a while, then you grind to a halt with every warning light glimmering dimly.

Think it`s only the 2.6 & 3.2 with that Kev.
Start a search for a regulator now. Seems strange that my old F/L (2.0) had a 120A alt and regs were easy to come by, but my 2.2 has a 100A and regs seem scarce

Yep, same with the 3.0vs. 3.2. plenty of regs for the older ones, more scarce for the newer.

Check out m.u.r.e on ebay. That's where I got mine.

Cheers Kev, they`ve got one

[Lazydocker]

I assume you've checked the battery crimps? When breaking down they can give similar symptoms Or check the voltage readings direct from the back of the alternator to confirm/rule out actual alternator fault

[Kevin Wood]

I assume you've checked the battery crimps? When breaking down they can give similar symptoms Or check the voltage readings direct from the back of the alternator to confirm/rule out actual alternator fault

Yes, good point. Always worth checking the battery terminal crimp as that's a common problem that produces the same symptoms.

[RobG]

I assume you've checked the battery crimps? When breaking down they can give similar symptoms Or check the voltage readings direct from the back of the alternator to confirm/rule out actual alternator fault

Seem intact and only get warm to the touch

[Lazydocker]

I assume you've checked the battery crimps? When breaking down they can give similar symptoms Or check the voltage readings direct from the back of the alternator to confirm/rule out actual alternator fault

Seem intact and only get warm to the touch

Worth checking the voltage direct from the alternator before going too far then... That will prove/rule out any wiring issues

Plus it should be easy on a 4 pot... Tunnie keeps telling us it's a superior engine

[RobG]

I assume you've checked the battery crimps? When breaking down they can give similar symptoms Or check the voltage readings direct from the back of the alternator to confirm/rule out actual alternator fault

Seem intact and only get warm to the touch

Worth checking the voltage direct from the alternator before going too far then... That will prove/rule out any wiring issues

Plus it should be easy on a 4 pot... Tunnie keeps telling us it's a superior engine

What connections Paul, never done it that way

[Lazydocker]

I assume you've checked the battery crimps? When breaking down they can give similar symptoms Or check the voltage readings direct from the back of the alternator to confirm/rule out actual alternator fault

Seem intact and only get warm to the touch

Worth checking the voltage direct from the alternator before going too far then... That will prove/rule out any wiring issues

Plus it should be easy on a 4 pot... Tunnie keeps telling us it's a superior engine

What connections Paul, never done it that way

Biggest cross section will be the live and 0V anywhere metal (preferably close). Basically I'm suggesting you remove the battery from the equation to prove it is Alternator and not battery/crimps etc