Omega Owners Forum
Omega Help Area => Omega General Help => Topic started by: Paulus62 on 26 June 2013, 14:52:01
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Hi All,
Things were going well yesterday, got cam covers on and air intake/fuel injection in place & drained the oil :)
Problem came to getting oil filter off, the 3/8" square had been slightly mangled by a previous person & I didn't have a 24mm socket or spanner! Luckily my mate across the road did and I went to undo the cap, couldn't move it with the normal ½" drive ratchet so moved up to the long ½" torque ratchet bar. set it at 40 Nm and it clicked so cranked it up to 100 Nm and movement, this continued for some while, (having to click ratchet by hand one click to get socket back on the nut) and all the time needing max effort to move the oil filter. To cut a long story short, the whole filter housing was moving so thought would have to do the convertion in maintenance guides, I borrowed a ¾" drive 24mm and a oil filter chain wrench and after half an our of unwinding (1 click at a time) the housing was still in the same position >:( I then put the chain wrench on the housing and braced it against the steering link bar and undid the cap (initial turn was very very tight, then turned by hand, could have save myself 2 hours of frustration and growing annoyance ::)
Query; as the housing was just spinning and only with a 450mm bar am I okay to put in new filter and torque up to 15 Nm as it says on the cap, or will I have a leak around the base of the filter housing?
Secondly:
(http://dl.dropbox.com/s/3q4fn2y8sc9nlgp/cam%20cog%20bolt%20arrowed.jpg)
Is the arrowed bolt the Camshaft sprocket bolt and if so the Torque guide gives this as the values:
Camshaft sprocket to camshaft 50 + 60° + 15° 1
There are no notes at the bottom to indicate what the 1 at the end advises can anyone help please?
Cheers - Paul
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Just ensure the housing retaining (hollow) bolt is torqued properly while the cap is off. Its usually a 12mm alan key type fitting
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Thanks James :y
Didn't think to check inside, Doh! ::)
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Have taken sump off to clean any rubbish sitting there, below are 2 pics of the inside :o
(http://dl.dropbox.com/s/iflxnx5oo0wgkfi/oil%20pickup%20and%20inside%20sump.jpg)(http://dl.dropbox.com/s/o6n36h85q17khu6/Inside%20sump%20looking%20up.jpg)
Should I try to remove as much of this as possible before refitting the sump?
Starting to get ear ache from SWMBO ::)
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Have taken sump off to clean any rubbish sitting there, below are 2 pics of the inside :o
Should I try to remove as much of this as possible before refitting the sump?
Starting to get ear ache from SWMBO ::)
Get her to "polish" it up mate ;D ;D ;)
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Have taken sump off to clean any rubbish sitting there, below are 2 pics of the inside :o
Should I try to remove as much of this as possible before refitting the sump?
Starting to get ear ache from SWMBO ::)
Get her to "polish" it up mate ;D ;D ;)
Just as well she doesn't look at this, she's got her own to do ;D ;D
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I think what you were experiencing is the whole housing spinning. once removed you can retighten the assembly the filter 'cover' screws on to if that makes sense. then do up to 15nm if that's the specified torque.
I have personally never torqued a filter or filter housing. snug is good is my opinion.
one last thing...... are you using a torque wrench set at a certain torque to break stuff loose? my understanding (and of course correct me if im wrong) but stuff isn't meant to be broken loose with a torque wrench?
:)
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I think what you were experiencing is the whole housing spinning. once removed you can retighten the assembly the filter 'cover' screws on to if that makes sense. then do up to 15nm if that's the specified torque.
I have personally never torqued a filter or filter housing. snug is good is my opinion.
one last thing...... are you using a torque wrench set at a certain torque to break stuff loose? my understanding (and of course correct me if im wrong) but stuff isn't meant to be broken loose with a torque wrench?
:)
Agreed, but it does give an idea of how tight it was, plus the op may not have a long breaker bar or a length of lead pipe (or a large sammy ;) ) ;)
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I think what you were experiencing is the whole housing spinning. once removed you can retighten the assembly the filter 'cover' screws on to if that makes sense. then do up to 15nm if that's the specified torque.
I have personally never torqued a filter or filter housing. snug is good is my opinion.
one last thing...... are you using a torque wrench set at a certain torque to break stuff loose? my understanding (and of course correct me if im wrong) but stuff isn't meant to be broken loose with a torque wrench?
:)
Agreed, but it does give an idea of how tight it was, plus the op may not have a long breaker bar or a length of lead pipe (or a large sammy ;) ) ;)
totally....100nm torque on the filter housing :o :o :o
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I think what you were experiencing is the whole housing spinning. once removed you can retighten the assembly the filter 'cover' screws on to if that makes sense. then do up to 15nm if that's the specified torque.
I have personally never torqued a filter or filter housing. snug is good is my opinion.
one last thing...... are you using a torque wrench set at a certain torque to break stuff loose? my understanding (and of course correct me if im wrong) but stuff isn't meant to be broken loose with a torque wrench?
:)
Agreed, but it does give an idea of how tight it was, plus the op may not have a long breaker bar or a length of lead pipe (or a large sammy ;) ) ;)
totally....100nm torque on the filter housing :o :o :o
Yep just a tad high ;D ;D ;)
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I think what you were experiencing is the whole housing spinning. once removed you can retighten the assembly the filter 'cover' screws on to if that makes sense. then do up to 15nm if that's the specified torque.
I have personally never torqued a filter or filter housing. snug is good is my opinion.
one last thing...... are you using a torque wrench set at a certain torque to break stuff loose? my understanding (and of course correct me if im wrong) but stuff isn't meant to be broken loose with a torque wrench?
:)
Agreed, but it does give an idea of how tight it was, plus the op may not have a long breaker bar or a length of lead pipe (or a large sammy ;) ) ;)
totally....100nm torque on the filter housing :o :o :o
Yep just a tad high ;D ;D ;)
Thanks all :)
The torque wrench it is one that torque up both right & left handed thread, that's how I was able to use it. ;) It's a friend of mine's (who is a retired engineer, in his younger days did quite a bit of rallying & one of the car's he had, had opposite handed threads in some parts) he lent it to me as my torque wrench has only a short handle & only works tightening clockwise & states not for use anticlockwise :y
Any takers on the query on torque values for cam cogs & what the postscript should have been? please :)
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Hi All,
Things were going well yesterday, got cam covers on and air intake/fuel injection in place & drained the oil :)
Problem came to getting oil filter off, the 3/8" square had been slightly mangled by a previous person & I didn't have a 24mm socket or spanner! Luckily my mate across the road did and I went to undo the cap, couldn't move it with the normal ½" drive ratchet so moved up to the long ½" torque ratchet bar. set it at 40 Nm and it clicked so cranked it up to 100 Nm and movement, this continued for some while, (having to click ratchet by hand one click to get socket back on the nut) and all the time needing max effort to move the oil filter. To cut a long story short, the whole filter housing was moving so thought would have to do the convertion in maintenance guides, I borrowed a ¾" drive 24mm and a oil filter chain wrench and after half an our of unwinding (1 click at a time) the housing was still in the same position >:( I then put the chain wrench on the housing and braced it against the steering link bar and undid the cap (initial turn was very very tight, then turned by hand, could have save myself 2 hours of frustration and growing annoyance ::)
Query; as the housing was just spinning and only with a 450mm bar am I okay to put in new filter and torque up to 15 Nm as it says on the cap, or will I have a leak around the base of the filter housing?
Secondly:
(http://dl.dropbox.com/s/3q4fn2y8sc9nlgp/cam%20cog%20bolt%20arrowed.jpg)
Is the arrowed bolt the Camshaft sprocket bolt and if so the Torque guide gives this as the values:
Camshaft sprocket to camshaft 50 + 60° + 15° 1
There are no notes at the bottom to indicate what the 1 at the end advises can anyone help please?
Cheers - Paul
That is correct-just ignore the 1 ;) everything else is correct :y
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As for all that crud you can see when you took the sump off.I would use paraffin soaked rags and an old tooth brush to remove all that you can get at,and do the same to the sump pan itself.Then chuck some cheapo oil in there and run the engine for a while,then drain it and refill with the good stuff.
For what its worth,imo your going he right way about this.Systematically and methodically.Not cutting any corners.Your engine should run as sweet a nut when your finished. ;)
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As for all that crud you can see when you took the sump off.I would use paraffin soaked rags and an old tooth brush to remove all that you can get at,and do the same to the sump pan itself.Then chuck some cheapo oil in there and run the engine for a while,then drain it and refill with the good stuff.
For what its worth,imo your going he right way about this.Systematically and methodically.Not cutting any corners.Your engine should run as sweet a nut when your finished. ;)
+1 :y :y :y
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Have taken sump off to clean any rubbish sitting there, below are 2 pics of the inside :o
(http://dl.dropbox.com/s/iflxnx5oo0wgkfi/oil%20pickup%20and%20inside%20sump.jpg)(http://dl.dropbox.com/s/o6n36h85q17khu6/Inside%20sump%20looking%20up.jpg)
Should I try to remove as much of this as possible before refitting the sump?
Starting to get ear ache from SWMBO ::)
That looks like someones oven after a good turkey roast ::)
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As for all that crud you can see when you took the sump off.I would use paraffin soaked rags and an old tooth brush to remove all that you can get at,and do the same to the sump pan itself.Then chuck some cheapo oil in there and run the engine for a while,then drain it and refill with the good stuff.
For what its worth,imo your going he right way about this.Systematically and methodically.Not cutting any corners.Your engine should run as sweet a nut when your finished. ;)
+1 :y :y :y
Camshaft sprocket to camshaft 50 + 60° + 15° 1
That is correct-just ignore the 1 everything else is correct
Many thanks :y
That looks like someones oven after a good turkey roast ::)
LOL ;D ;D
I now have another problem ::) although I think I've sorted it but would like to run it by those who know :y
Put cam belt on as per the DVD, (not as simple to a novice as the DVD shows ;)) Got bottom lines in the right place worked upto cam 1 & 2 & got them in the right place, then realised it was on backwards! re did it again and moved on to cam 3, the line was short of the mark by a good inch :( went back and re checked everything and was ok so took it off again and compared it to the belt that had come off, both have same GM code number & all the line in the same place ???
Refitted all around ignoring marks on 3 & 4 cams only to have too much tension to put the roller in place, whereas on the driver side there was quite a bit of slack. So I removed the wedge and moved the belt towards the passenger side which enabled me to fit the roller.
The pictures below show how it is at night fall!
(http://dl.dropbox.com/s/s0nfykmy7iskpmo/Timing%20belt%20cams%201%262.jpg)
Cams 1 & 2 lined up with cam belt & cover marks
(http://dl.dropbox.com/s/gge1gokwjglc94k/Timing%20belt%20cam%203%20with%20cam%20%26%20case%20marks.jpg)
Cam 3 lined up with cover belt way off
(http://dl.dropbox.com/s/i1zi98kmt3axn2p/Timing%20belt%20cam%204%20with%20cam%20%26%20case%20marks.jpg)
Cam 4 lined up with cover as cam 3
(http://dl.dropbox.com/s/dclf9fi8lgj1hr0/Timing%20belt%20bottom%20mark%20with%20lock%20sowing%20case%20mark.jpg)(http://dl.dropbox.com/s/glbuuyfnufstkib/Timing%20belt%20bottom%20mark%20with%20drive%20shatf%20mark%20in%20line%20with%20case%20mark.jpg)
Bottom line a tooth towards Cams 3&4 TDC lines up with cutout in cover
Have I done something wrong, or is it that the layout of the 2.6 is slightly different to the 2.5?
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I've started the cleaning of the inside of the sump if I remove the bolts arrowed in the pictures bellow can I remove the oil lift pipe for cleaning or do I leave it alone and clean around?
(http://dl.dropbox.com/s/vywz7j31gfcgpjn/oil%20lift%20pipe%201.jpg)(http://dl.dropbox.com/s/bc8bzf2k5ortozk/oil%20lif%20pipe%202.jpg)
Still looks worse than my oven does ;D ;D ;D
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Looks a lot better though :y What did you use to clean it :-\
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Looks a lot better though :y What did you use to clean it :-\
A small wire brush dipped in jar of white spirit for the thick stuff then carb cleaner sprayed onto a rag and lots of rubbing ;)
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Personally I wouldn't worry about trying to remove all that black varnish - it'll come off (slowly and in solution) given a few short mileage changes with good oil..
If you do take the oil pickup off there'll be a gasket to renew between it and the oil pump entryway, I would think.
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Personally I wouldn't worry about trying to remove all that black varnish - it'll come off (slowly and in solution) given a few short mileage changes with good oil..
If you do take the oil pickup off there'll be a gasket to renew between it and the oil pump entryway, I would think.
That's a good enough reason to leave be.
Thanks Aaron :y