Omega Owners Forum
Omega Help Area => Omega General Help => Topic started by: leebron on 04 November 2013, 18:35:53
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Opel Omega Z22XE, 2.2 Estate -01
Diagnostic by me and 2 times on garage, (one certified Vauxhall and one other)
first garage said, throttle body - replaced no better.
second certified garage said, EGR or ECU, - replaced Egr no better.
Fault codes: are different from time to time but the ones that is always on p0120(TPS), p1120 acc pedal sensor, p1550 EGR.
And sometimes error codes, like camshaft, crankshaft, SVS Can, codes come on. low voltage, or not present.
Symptoms: Car difficult to start and electricfault lamp or exhaust lambda lamp, - car in to limp mode.
Its when the car has been off for a day. When the car gets warm i can erase the codes and the car runs normal.
And as long as the car is warm, i can turn on and off the car with no problem even after a few hours. But not for a night or longer. The morning after its the same problem.
The ECU was in for repair last summer but they couldnt find any fault and it was sent in return.
So my question is, should i just give up my omega or should i try a new ECU?
The car is in perfect shape otherwise with lots of new parts allover.
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Cam sensor playing up... buy new, in person from nearest Vauxhall dealer :y
Do not under any circumstance buy from Ebay or anywhere else :y
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Cam sensor playing up... buy new, in person from nearest Vauxhall dealer :y
Do not under any circumstance buy from Ebay or anywhere else :y
Have replaced cam sensor a few months ago. The Vauxhall garage say that the cam sensor is working properly.
The car starts with no problem most of the times, its just when it has been off for a longer period, doenst sound like cam sensor issue for me?
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Cam sensor does not always give the right code and in fact usually shows everything but, lots of "red herrings" on a 2.2 the problem is usually this and little else. As said use only a GENUINE Vauxhall sensor.
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Cam sensor does not always give the right code and in fact usually shows everything but, lots of "red herrings" on a 2.2 the problem is usually this and little else. As said use only a GENUINE Vauxhall sensor.
Ok but why would the Vauxhall garage say its not the cam sensor? I asked specific that i think its the cam sensor, and asked if the can run diagnostic and replace the cam sensor if they also think this is the reason. Dont they have the tools to test it?
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I can only speak about Vauxhall dealers in the UK but they would struggle to hit a cow on the arse with a banjo (they are not very good ) never mind more complex processes. Omegas are very old now and the technicians generally don't understand them.
I may be wrong but I don't think it is common for ECU's to be a problem.
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Its not common,but not unheard of either. I would still suspect cam sensor until proved wrong though. :y
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.. and an ECU fails so rarely it's not even worth considering. Mechanics suspect that when their (limited) diagnostic capabilities are exhausted because it's complicated and expensive. ::)
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True. On the other hand we have had a 2.6 and 3.2 ECU go wrong on here in the last 6 months.Or at least, ECU replacement solved the problem in both cases.
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I would suspect battery at this stage. Either swop it for a known good one, or try a morning start with a second battery supporting the car battery with jump leads. I had a 3.2 (wife's car), used every other day, which behaved similarly. On being fitted with a new battery car was cured.
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I would suspect battery at this stage. Either swop it for a known good one, or try a morning start with a second battery supporting the car battery with jump leads. I had a 3.2 (wife's car), used every other day, which behaved similarly. On being fitted with a new battery car was cured.
The car battery is no more then an year old. (Bosch real quality) and measure 12.10 now as i have been on/off engine for testing. Shows 14,5 when start so dont think its the battery. The car doesnt always have problem to start. Tried warming up the ecu as i could delete the faultcodes when the car was warm. But no luck(ecu warm, car cold). The only thing happen was that i no longer can remove fault codes. (Still condsider ecu or camsensor).
I get an other working ecu on friday. If that doesnt work iam gonna demand Vaxuhall garage to replace cam sensor for free as i Asked for that in the first place but they was so sure that wasnt the issue. And on there reciept it has all the fault codes (0340 cam is on there aswell)
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I would suspect battery at this stage. Either swop it for a known good one, or try a morning start with a second battery supporting the car battery with jump leads. I had a 3.2 (wife's car), used every other day, which behaved similarly. On being fitted with a new battery car was cured.
The car battery is no more then an year old. (Bosch real quality) and measure 12.10 now as i have been on/off engine for testing. Shows 14,5 when start so dont think its the battery. The car doesnt always have problem to start. Tried warming up the ecu as i could delete the faultcodes when the car was warm. But no luck(ecu warm, car cold). The only thing happen was that i no longer can remove fault codes. (Still condsider ecu or camsensor).
I get an other working ecu on friday. If that doesnt work iam gonna demand Vaxuhall garage to replace cam sensor for free as i Asked for that in the first place but they was so sure that wasnt the issue. And on there reciept it has all the fault codes (0340 cam is on there aswell)
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That seals it for me ! Hope you don't mind me asking but how did you "warm the ECU up" :-\
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I would suspect battery at this stage. Either swop it for a known good one, or try a morning start with a second battery supporting the car battery with jump leads. I had a 3.2 (wife's car), used every other day, which behaved similarly. On being fitted with a new battery car was cured.
The car battery is no more then an year old. (Bosch real quality) and measure 12.10 now as i have been on/off engine for testing. Shows 14,5 when start so dont think its the battery. The car doesnt always have problem to start. Tried warming up the ecu as i could delete the faultcodes when the car was warm. But no luck(ecu warm, car cold). The only thing happen was that i no longer can remove fault codes. (Still condsider ecu or camsensor).
I get an other working ecu on friday. If that doesnt work iam gonna demand Vaxuhall garage to replace cam sensor for free as i Asked for that in the first place but they was so sure that wasnt the issue. And on there reciept it has all the fault codes (0340 cam is on there aswell)
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That seals it for me ! Hope you don't mind me asking but how did you "warm the ECU up" :-\
It was a long shot. But as I could clean faultcodes and car runs normal after 10min idle (car n ecu getting warm). Then i guessed i could probably warm up the ecu alone before car gets warm and clean faultcodes direct after start up.
I disassembly the ecu warmed it up in hand with hairdryer (to 40c) and reconnected it, and started the car. But that didnt do any difference. I could always try reflow the ecu, but dont wanna risk that if the ecu still is working and the problem is something else.
have checked cable connections and wire with multimeters, to all parts showing up as faultcode, no broken wire there.
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Are you saying that you can't read the codes from the ECU unless you warm it up? ???
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Are you saying that you can't read the codes from the ECU unless you warm it up? ???
Sry if i was unclear. No i could erase fault codes and the car goes back to normal idle. (not limp mode) as soon as the ecu/car got warm. Thats why i tried warming up just the ECU to "working temperature" alone to see if i could remove fault codes when only the ECU was warm.
Get new ECU later this weekend. But could there be short on the wiring loom? Have checked signal between ecu headconnector and the pins on EGR, TPS and Cam. But can still be shorts. Need wiring diagram to check pin on egr and pin on camsensor to know what should be on same wiring.
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I have now replaced The ecu with à "new" one. Still no better. Exactly same Fault codes.
(http://i40.tinypic.com/4i1l.jpg)
Find one person with same problem and codes:
http://oldsite.omegaowners.com/forum/YaBB.pl?num=1313139703/0
As vauxhall/opel garage experts have adviced me To replaced egr and ecu. (I did)
I still believe its The CAM sensor. Iam gonna talk with them this monday. And demand them To replace it altough they say its nothing wrong with The CAM sensor.
To be Continue.
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Perhaps it is the cam position sensor that needs to be warm ;)
I imagine you have already done so but I would check all the connectors around the ECU & battery (including the big circular connector and all the earthing wires).
Unplug the connectors, quick squirt of water dispersant, and plug back together (making sure that the locking ring is done up on the circular connector).
Unbolt earth leads, clean off any rust and bolt them back on with a smear of copper grease.
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.. and an ECU fails so rarely it's not even worth considering. Mechanics suspect that when their (limited) diagnostic capabilities are exhausted because it's complicated and expensive. ::)
ECU failed in 02 Saturn 3.0, which is Omega engine, even ECU fits both cars. I used ECU from Catera. Random codes are sign of ECU problem or ECU ground.
BTW I replaced throttle body in the Saturn first, which didn't help.
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This looks like a problem with the DBW throttle system, so throttle position sensors or pedal position sensors or associated wiring playing up perhaps?
Need to check all 4 (2 sensors in each) using live data, IMHO.
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Perhaps it is the cam position sensor that needs to be warm ;)
I imagine you have already done so but I would check all the connectors around the ECU & battery (including the big circular connector and all the earthing wires).
Unplug the connectors, quick squirt of water dispersant, and plug back together (making sure that the locking ring is done up on the circular connector).
Unbolt earth leads, clean off any rust and bolt them back on with a smear of copper grease.
I have done all that. The new ECU got the same fault codes as before.
The opel/vauxhall garage have now replaced cam sensor. (as i told them to do in the first place)
The car now works normally. And shows only one fault code. p0700. (mil req gearbox).
How do i remove that code?
Only i have done is cleaning the contacts to gearbox (ofcourse without battery in).
So tired of this now, the car seem to be working as normal but stil electrical spanner light in dash. and p0700. =(
Regards.
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That may be a remnant of the cam sensor issues as it often throws up transmission codes, it may clear ??? not sure but can be cleared with a reader but I would have thought Vaux would have done it. Glad the running problem is sorted :y
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That may be a remnant of the cam sensor issues as it often throws up transmission codes, it may clear ??? not sure but can be cleared with a reader but I would have thought Vaux would have done it. Glad the running problem is sorted :y
They have tried cleared the p0700 but it still comes back, i have no idea why.
Where could the problem be? Iam gonna try connect the old ECU back to see if the code dissapear.
Yes the car operates normal and there is no limp mode. (should p0700 set the car in limp?)
Thanks for the help everybody.
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Iam not gonna say that the car is 100% cured but today it works and there is no more fault codes.
Had to clear fault code p0700 in automtic gearbox ecu first then clear it in the engine ecu.
The car now operates normal and iam positiv and hopefully there is no more now.
Just wanna thank all for reply and say that you all has been more helpful then the vauxhall/garage who made me pay for lots of unnecessery parts to finally get them to fix the fault (the camsensor).
I now have one extra throttle body, egr and ecu as spare parts. ;)
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Unfortunately, making customers pay for parts they don't need where the Vauxhall mechanic hasn't a clue how to interpret the fault data is all too common. >:(
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mate had same car and problems-he scrapped it :'( :'(