Print

Please login or register.
1 Hour 1 Day 1 Week 1 Month Forever
Login with username, password and session length

[leebron]

Opel Omega Z22XE, 2.2 Estate -01

Diagnostic by me and 2 times on garage, (one certified Vauxhall and one other)

first garage said, throttle body - replaced no better.
second certified garage said, EGR or ECU, - replaced Egr no better.

Fault codes: are different from time to time but the ones that is always on p0120(TPS), p1120 acc pedal sensor, p1550 EGR.
And sometimes error codes, like camshaft, crankshaft, SVS Can, codes come on. low voltage, or not present.

Symptoms: Car difficult to start and electricfault lamp or exhaust lambda lamp, - car in to limp mode.
Its when the car has been off for a day. When the car gets warm i can erase the codes and the car runs normal.
And as long as the car is warm, i can turn on and off the car with no problem even after a few hours. But not for a night or longer. The morning after its the same problem.

The ECU was in for repair last summer but they couldnt find any fault and it was sent in return.

So my question is, should i just give up my omega or should i try a new ECU?


The car is in perfect shape otherwise with lots of new parts allover.

[05omegav6]

Cam sensor playing up... buy new, in person from nearest Vauxhall dealer

Do not under any circumstance buy from Ebay or anywhere else

[leebron]

Cam sensor playing up... buy new, in person from nearest Vauxhall dealer

Do not under any circumstance buy from Ebay or anywhere else

Have replaced cam sensor a few months ago. The Vauxhall garage say that the cam sensor is working properly.
The car starts with no problem most of the times, its just when it has been off for a longer period, doenst sound like cam sensor issue for me?

[omegod]

Cam sensor does not always give the right code and in fact usually shows everything but, lots of "red herrings" on a 2.2 the problem is usually this and little else. As said use only a GENUINE Vauxhall sensor.

[leebron]

Cam sensor does not always give the right code and in fact usually shows everything but, lots of "red herrings" on a 2.2 the problem is usually this and little else. As said use only a GENUINE Vauxhall sensor.

Ok but why would the Vauxhall garage say its not the cam sensor? I asked specific that i think its the cam sensor, and asked if the can run diagnostic and replace the cam sensor if they also think this is the reason. Dont they have the tools to test it?

[omegod]

I can only speak about Vauxhall dealers in the UK but they would struggle to hit a cow on the arse with a banjo (they are not very good ) never mind more complex processes. Omegas are very old now and the technicians generally don't understand them.

I may be wrong but I don't think it is common for ECU's to be a problem.

[albitz]

Its not common,but not unheard of either. I would still suspect cam sensor until proved wrong though.

[Kevin Wood]

.. and an ECU fails so rarely it's not even worth considering. Mechanics suspect that when their (limited) diagnostic capabilities are exhausted because it's complicated and expensive.

[albitz]

True. On the other hand we have had a 2.6 and 3.2 ECU go wrong on here in the last 6 months.Or at least, ECU replacement solved the problem in both cases.

[terry paget]

I would suspect battery at this stage. Either swop it for a known good one, or try a morning start with a second battery supporting the car battery with jump leads. I had a 3.2 (wife's car), used every other day, which behaved similarly. On being fitted with a new battery car was cured.

[leebron]

I would suspect battery at this stage. Either swop it for a known good one, or try a morning start with a second battery supporting the car battery with jump leads. I had a 3.2 (wife's car), used every other day, which behaved similarly. On being fitted with a new battery car was cured.

The car battery is no more then an year old. (Bosch real quality) and measure 12.10 now as i have been on/off engine for testing. Shows 14,5 when start so dont think its the battery. The car doesnt always have problem to start. Tried warming up the ecu as i could delete the faultcodes when the car was warm. But no luck(ecu warm, car cold). The only thing happen was that i no longer can remove fault codes. (Still condsider ecu or camsensor).
I get an other working ecu on friday. If that doesnt work iam gonna demand Vaxuhall garage to replace cam sensor for free as i Asked for that in the first place but they was so sure that wasnt the issue. And on there reciept it has all the fault codes (0340 cam is on there aswell)
 

[omegod]

I would suspect battery at this stage. Either swop it for a known good one, or try a morning start with a second battery supporting the car battery with jump leads. I had a 3.2 (wife's car), used every other day, which behaved similarly. On being fitted with a new battery car was cured.

The car battery is no more then an year old. (Bosch real quality) and measure 12.10 now as i have been on/off engine for testing. Shows 14,5 when start so dont think its the battery. The car doesnt always have problem to start. Tried warming up the ecu as i could delete the faultcodes when the car was warm. But no luck(ecu warm, car cold). The only thing happen was that i no longer can remove fault codes. (Still condsider ecu or camsensor).
I get an other working ecu on friday. If that doesnt work iam gonna demand Vaxuhall garage to replace cam sensor for free as i Asked for that in the first place but they was so sure that wasnt the issue. And on there reciept it has all the fault codes (0340 cam is on there aswell)

[/highlight]

That seals it for me ! Hope you don't mind me asking but how did you "warm the ECU up" 

[leebron]

I would suspect battery at this stage. Either swop it for a known good one, or try a morning start with a second battery supporting the car battery with jump leads. I had a 3.2 (wife's car), used every other day, which behaved similarly. On being fitted with a new battery car was cured.

The car battery is no more then an year old. (Bosch real quality) and measure 12.10 now as i have been on/off engine for testing. Shows 14,5 when start so dont think its the battery. The car doesnt always have problem to start. Tried warming up the ecu as i could delete the faultcodes when the car was warm. But no luck(ecu warm, car cold). The only thing happen was that i no longer can remove fault codes. (Still condsider ecu or camsensor).
I get an other working ecu on friday. If that doesnt work iam gonna demand Vaxuhall garage to replace cam sensor for free as i Asked for that in the first place but they was so sure that wasnt the issue. And on there reciept it has all the fault codes (0340 cam is on there aswell)

[/highlight]

That seals it for me ! Hope you don't mind me asking but how did you "warm the ECU up" 

It was a long shot. But as I could clean faultcodes and car runs normal after 10min idle (car n ecu getting warm). Then i guessed i could probably warm up the ecu alone before car gets warm and clean faultcodes direct after start up.
I disassembly the ecu warmed it up in hand with hairdryer (to 40c) and reconnected it, and started the car. But that didnt do any difference. I could always try reflow the ecu, but dont wanna risk that if the ecu still is working and the problem is something else.

have checked cable connections and wire with multimeters, to all parts showing up as faultcode, no broken wire there.

[Kevin Wood]

Are you saying that you can't read the codes from the ECU unless you warm it up?

[leebron]

Are you saying that you can't read the codes from the ECU unless you warm it up?

Sry if i was unclear. No i could erase fault codes and the car goes back to normal idle. (not limp mode) as soon as the ecu/car got warm. Thats why i tried warming up just the ECU to "working temperature" alone to see if i could remove fault codes when only the ECU was warm.

Get new ECU later this weekend. But could there be short on the wiring loom? Have checked signal between ecu headconnector and the pins on EGR, TPS and Cam. But can still be shorts. Need wiring diagram to check pin on egr and pin on camsensor to know what should be on same wiring.