Omega Owners Forum
Chat Area => General Car Chat => Topic started by: anV6 on 07 December 2016, 17:23:10
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Now that I’m 100% clear on the Omega I want, I decided to start a new thread with the important information from my other threads condensed in here. Things were all over the place there and got quite off topic at times.
I will be addressing different things related to the Omega I want here. I know I'm being very particular about the car I want. This is just how it is. But I'm already taking measures to try to make it easier. For example full leather is one of my requirements. But I'm already looking for a leather interior to swap in, so I don't need to be also tied to finding a car with leather interior.
I want to buy a MFL Omega MV6 3.0 with a manual transmission. I know back in the UK they are like Unicorns. But here not really. I already came across 3 Omegas MV6 manuals. I passed on them because of either too high mileage or condition. But they are out there.
Although most 3.0 are certainly automatic. So I'm giving more and more thought about buying an auto and converting it to manual. I already located a R28 gear box for very cheap here.
I thought this would be easy since many had recommended it. But then was told it's not so easy. So I wanted to ask if anybody here has swapped an auto for a manual and could give me a detailed account on what’s needed?
Apart from finding a MV6 manual I think this is the best option. To buy an auto and swap a manual in.
I know Doctor Gollan and others feel like swapping the engine is the way to go because it seems to be easier. But over here is not like the UK. Tuning is a very bureaucratic affair here.
To swap an engine would be very bureaucratic and expensive! If you get stopped and get caught with an engine which is not the one listed in your registration you are in deep trouble! Same thing with wheels, lights etc. It’s tough here.
To officially change your engine on the paper you have to take your car to the police so their engineers can look at it and see if they approve it. But believe me they will pick on everything and try to find every excuse not to give it to you. And you have to pay. If they find something which is not to their liking you then have to go back and change it if you want to get it. But next time you come back for them to check the changes you pay again! And if it still not “correct” and you need to come back again, yes you pay once more. The larger the change the harder to get approval. Even if you chip your engine you have the legal obligation of registering it if the power increase is more than a certain very small percentage like 3-5%. Although that I believe is not a big deal. You just must go there and pay. Especially if you do it with a specialized company. But anything which is not original to the car you have to go through this process. The older the car the more strict they are as well. Not only in the inspection but also on the streets. Older cars get stopped way more often than new cars. If they see a wheel which looks too sporty for the type of car or too modern for an older car or out of place they can stop you. If they think it’s a tuned car they will ask to look at the engine. If they think the engine is modified and makes more power than what says on your registration they will ask you. If you say no but they still have doubts they can make you go have it inspected. If it turns out you were lying you are in trouble. Not only for an unregistered engine but also for lying to the police. So it’s not worth it doing it unless you have it registered. I’m sure some risk it. I see young boys with cars that look tuned and look like they wouldn’t have the money to go through the legal process etc. But I won’t do it that way. And to have it registered is a pain on the neck.
So I really don’t want to go through an engine swap.
In the case of the gearbox it is a bit different. The registration doesn’t really specify it. I don’t think they care for a gearbox. It is also not something that would draw attention. The main problem with the engine is the hp increase, which affects safety. After a certain amount of hp increase they will also make you upgrade the brakes and anything safety related. And you have to have the correct hp output in the registration to pay for insurance which is based on hp output too. You know, the more hp the more tax you pay etc.
So if I want a manual, it’s either waiting till a manual 3.0 comes along, going with something else besides a 3.0 and keeping it that way or buying a 3.0 auto and swapping the gearbox. But I want a 3.0 and manual.
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I have only two rules in Omega ownership.
1.....Don't buy a 'wheezy' 2.0/2.2 four pot.
2.....Don't buy (again) an Omega with a manual box. It's too agricultural and lorry like.
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.......and rule 3........never,ever, buy an Omega (or any car) that runs on lorry fuel. :y
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.......and rule 3........never,ever, buy an Omega (or any car) that runs on lorry fuel. :y
at last ... he talks some sense ...... :) :) :)
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Thanks. But it's no longer open for debate. It must be a manual.
Besides I drove Omegas with the R25 and didn't find it bad. I guess the R28 can't be much different. If it is I would guess for the better. If it's good enough for 293BHP it can't be that bad. But it doesn't matter. It MUST be manual. ;)
P.S. I would like to keep this thread sharp and on topic please. :y
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Er we go again. Round and round.
You only have 2 feet why confuse yourself with 3 pedals ;D
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Just buy the bloody 3 pedal Merc .......
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.......and rule 3........never,ever, buy an Omega (or any car) that runs on lorry fuel. :y
at last ... he talks some sense ...... :) :) :)
I seem to recall talking some sense in 2010, or perhaps it was 2014. :) ;)
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If you've got your heart set on a Manual, then buy one with a Manual, job done, converting a Auto to Manual can cause issues, apart from the work involved, you wont have to worry about having to change Diff ratios, ECU Mapping, Loom, Autobox Speed Sensors etc to get the car back to standard.
Ive driven and owned quiet a few Omegas now, mostly 3.0/3.2 both Auto and Manual, nothing wrong with Manuals if your not fussed about using the 3rd Pedal which would always be my preferred choice.
3.0 Manual are a good drive I would happily get another, 3.2 Manuals pretty much the same but with slightly different Engine characteristics, R28 Boxes on the 3.0 Manuals, slightly Stronger R30 on the 3.2 both have 3.7 ratio Diff, both do what it says on the tin. Only slight downside is the Gear Stick throw is a bit wide on the Manuals, if its an issue for you, can easterly be sorted by fitted a Short Shift Stick and bending/angle it towards the Drivers side.
I'll be keeping both my 3.2 Manual Specials for a while yet. ;)
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Now I would have a manual every time because I like to enjoy my driving, a manual conversion is not that hard to do either and we have a guide on here.
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Sorry, but to my mind, there's a lack of vision and drive to devolop your perfect Omega, and when you start, you'll regret not buying that Mercedes and will hate the Omega for reminding you... every time you look at it.
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Just buy the bloody 3 pedal Merc .......
As Andy says, just buy the Merc, it ticks all the boxes and you`ve more chance of finding a unicorn than the Omega that you seek :y
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Sorry, but to my mind, there's a lack of vision and drive to devolop your perfect Omega, and when you start, you'll regret not buying that Mercedes and will hate the Omega for reminding you... every time you look at it.
What lack of drive and vision? Is passing on the Mercedes not having enough drive to get an Omega? Is being patient to find the right one not enough drive for you? You must have a really distorted view of what real drive is. And what lack of vision? I already said I am looking for a leather interior to fit so I don't need to find a car with it already. I'm pondering swapping transmissions too. So what lack of vision? Are you on again about engine swaps? Didn't you read my post above, which I basically wrote in so much detail because I just knew you would jump in again with the same old record about engine swap? If not that, please do tell Doctor, where is my lack of imagination and drive? I would love to know it.
And absolutely not! The Omega will not remind me that I regret not buying the Mercedes every time I look at it. To the contrary. Every time I look at the Omega I will be reminded why I didn't buy the Mercedes.
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What Mercedes? ???
Have I been asleep at the back of the class again? :-\
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If you've got your heart set on a Manual, then buy one with a Manual, job done, converting a Auto to Manual can cause issues, apart from the work involved, you wont have to worry about having to change Diff ratios, ECU Mapping, Loom, Autobox Speed Sensors etc to get the car back to standard.
Ive driven and owned quiet a few Omegas now, mostly 3.0/3.2 both Auto and Manual, nothing wrong with Manuals if your not fussed about using the 3rd Pedal which would always be my preferred choice.
3.0 Manual are a good drive I would happily get another, 3.2 Manuals pretty much the same but with slightly different Engine characteristics, R28 Boxes on the 3.0 Manuals, slightly Stronger R30 on the 3.2 both have 3.7 ratio Diff, both do what it says on the tin. Only slight downside is the Gear Stick throw is a bit wide on the Manuals, if its an issue for you, can easterly be sorted by fitted a Short Shift Stick and bending/angle it towards the Drivers side.
I'll be keeping both my 3.2 Manual Specials for a while yet. ;)
Thanks! At last a reply which actually addresses the topic at hand! :)
Of course I would prefer buying a manual already. ;)
They are just thinner on the ground. Although not nearly impossible to find like in the UK. Like I said I already found 3. So I'm just trying to get a realistic assessment of what's involved in a gearbox swap so I can sort out my options. ;)
Doing some reading I have found both, people saying it's a lot of trouble and others saying it's not. Like in this very thread. So I'm just collecting the info to make a decision.
Yep, I'm also not fussed about using the 3rd Pedal. I can multitask. I actually demand it. I would not have an auto one. Just my personal preference. So it's not even up for debate. You're very luck to have two 3.2 manuals. Keep them for life as they are a special breed indeed! :y
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Now I would have a manual every time because I like to enjoy my driving, a manual conversion is not that hard to do either and we have a guide on here.
A guide? Is it in the FAQ? I read that a while ago but maybe I missed it. Will have to have a look again. Thanks!
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Swaping auto box to manual one is not a hard task. Have done it on a previous car. There is a quide. Loom doesn't need to be changed (if you can live with bridged connector for P-switch).
If I were you, I would be looking for 3.0 manual, and ONLY if I run across a mint and cheap 3.0 auto, I'd consider buing it, and swaping the box after some time (you don't have to do it immediatly).
PS. In what country are you?
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Just buy the bloody 3 pedal Merc .......
As Andy says, just buy the Merc, it ticks all the boxes and you`ve more chance of finding a unicorn than the Omega that you seek :y
Like I have been saying, in the UK maybe they are unicorns. Here they are just more rare. But they are out there for sure. Far from an unicorn.
I already explained why I passed on the Mercedes in the other thread.
Talking about the Mercedes people also told me in that thread a manual W124 was rare. Yet I don't see it. Here every other W124 for sale is a stick. Not that rare at all. The continent is just different. Only as of recent automatic cars are getting some traction. Probably because Mercedes and Porsche are popular here and they seem to be forcing that on people. I know quite a few people who wanted a new Mercedes but opted for a different new car than a Mercedes because they couldn't get a manual. I know 3 to be exact.
If you talk to most people, and I don't even mean only petroheads, and ask them about having an automatic, the typical answer is, I'm not a pensioner, I'm not lazy, are you calling me fat and things of that nature if they are trying to be funny. I kid you not. It's a very different mentality. Which is curious because they actually have mountains here, where you need to actively work the shift. But yet manuals are still way more popular.
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Like I have been saying, in the UK maybe they are unicorns. Here they are just more rare. But they are out there for sure. Far from an unicorn.
Buy one then ......
I already explained why I passed on the Mercedes in the other thread.
Must've lost the will to live before I got to the end ......
Talking about the Mercedes people also told me in that thread a manual W124 was rare. Yet I don't see it. Here every other W124 for sale is a stick. Not that rare at all. The continent is just different. Only as of recent automatic cars are getting some traction. Probably because Mercedes and Porsche are popular here and they seem to be forcing that on people. I know quite a few people who wanted a new Mercedes but opted for a different new car than a Mercedes because they couldn't get a manual. I know 3 to be exact.
If you talk to most people, and I don't even mean only petroheads, and ask them about having an automatic, the typical answer is, I'm not a pensioner, I'm not lazy, are you calling me fat and things of that nature if they are trying to be funny. I kid you not. It's a very different mentality. Which is curious because they actually have mountains here, where you need to actively work the shift. But yet manuals are still way more popular.
You've already convinced yourself that manuals are 'better' .... those that chose to drive an auto won't be convinced ...... we've heard all the pro's of a manual many many many times before ... can't see a hill blah blah blah
The 3 'manuals are better' that you know are easily outweighed by the rest that want an auto. If manuals were so much in demand on 'prestige' cars, then manufactures would make maore of them ... but they don't cos the damand isn't there.
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Like I have been saying, in the UK maybe they are unicorns. Here they are just more rare. But they are out there for sure. Far from an unicorn.
Buy one then ......
I already explained why I passed on the Mercedes in the other thread.
Must've lost the will to live before I got to the end ......
Talking about the Mercedes people also told me in that thread a manual W124 was rare. Yet I don't see it. Here every other W124 for sale is a stick. Not that rare at all. The continent is just different. Only as of recent automatic cars are getting some traction. Probably because Mercedes and Porsche are popular here and they seem to be forcing that on people. I know quite a few people who wanted a new Mercedes but opted for a different new car than a Mercedes because they couldn't get a manual. I know 3 to be exact.
If you talk to most people, and I don't even mean only petroheads, and ask them about having an automatic, the typical answer is, I'm not a pensioner, I'm not lazy, are you calling me fat and things of that nature if they are trying to be funny. I kid you not. It's a very different mentality. Which is curious because they actually have mountains here, where you need to actively work the shift. But yet manuals are still way more popular.
You've already convinced yourself that manuals are 'better' .... those that chose to drive an auto won't be convinced ...... we've heard all the pro's of a manual many many many times before ... can't see a hill blah blah blah
The 3 'manuals are better' that you know are easily outweighed by the rest that want an auto. If manuals were so much in demand on 'prestige' cars, then manufactures would make maore of them ... but they don't cos the damand isn't there.
I'm sorry, but freaking LOL!!! Who is trying to convince anybody??? I couldn't care less.
Automatic drivers are the ones jumping in with their opinions that automatic is better when nobody asked here. I tried ignoring the little childish pokes and only mentioned that people here like manuals better to explain why manual Omegas are not unicorns here. Because it seemed people were not getting it and continued to base their opinions on the UK market only. Even after I repeatedly said here they are more common. I didn't bring it up to try to convince anybody. I couldn't care less.
You are again speaking from an UK perspective. Prestige cars or not. Why do you think it's easier to find manual Omegas and Mercedes here? Because people like manuals. I know very few people who have automatics. A young person specially would never opt for an automatic even when both cost the same.
About automatic being more popular in the UK or U.S. you and I or at least every petrohead or car enthusiast and I know why people choose automatics. It has nothing to do with it being better and all to do with being easier. People who enjoy driving just prefer manuals. That is all there is to it. There is no need for automatic lovers to jump in to defend automatic barges anytime somebody says he prefers manuals.
Look at this. Trolls have managed to turn the thread into an automatic vs manual debate when nobody asked. ::)
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Just go and buy something then .......
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Just go and buy something then .......
I definitely will, in my own time. I'm not sure if you realize this. But you can just ignore my threads. If you have nothing useful to add it would be better.
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you've been offered plenty of advise ... you're choosing to ignore it yet keep whittering on about a car that barely exists now ... there were never that many in the first place, whether wearing a Griffin or Opel Blitz.
PLEASE PLEASE buy one & give us all a break
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you've been offered plenty of advise ... you're choosing to ignore it yet keep whittering on about a car that barely exists now ... there were never that many in the first place, whether wearing a Griffin or Opel Blitz.
PLEASE PLEASE buy one & give us all a break
Like I said, you can have your break any time you want. Just stop clicking on my threads. I do not have to explain myself to you or keep repeating myself. If I so choose to be patient to find the car I want, it is my problem. Unless you are paying for it?
Give yourself a break and stop clicking on my threads. It's as easy as that. As you can see there are plenty of people who want to help and don't get offended because I didn't take their advice. They understand advice is just that. Not a rule one must follow even if doesn't suit his needs.
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Asking the same question 40 different ways starts to get irksome, especially when you don't actually read the advice given.
Manual cars may well be easier to find in other markets, this isn't a surprise...
But to answer your latest question, "Least complicated route to a 3.0 MV6 manual?"
Come over here and buy the only one you find. Then take it home, spend a fortune restoring it and come back to bitch about the fact that it's righthand drive.
MV6 wasn't a Euroland model iirc ::) so you're well on a hiding to nothing. ;D
This should not be news, as the last 4 times you've asked have all given the same responses.
So please, either crack on and get done, or stop asking for advice on the subject.
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Asking the same question 40 different ways starts to get irksome, especially when you don't actually read the advice given.
Manual cars may well be easier to find in other markets, this isn't a surprise...
But to answer your latest question, "Least complicated route to a 3.0 MV6 manual?"
Come over here and buy the only one you find. Then take it home, spend a fortune restoring it and come back to bitch about the fact that it's righthand drive.
MV6 wasn't a Euroland model iirc ::) so you're well on a hiding to nothing. ;D
This should not be news, as the last 4 times you've asked have all given the same responses.
So please, either crack on and get done, or stop asking for advice on the subject.
I'm sorry but I don't think you know what you are talking about when it comes to Euroland Omegas. Actually I can see you don't have the faintest idea. MV6 was indeed a model here ::). Google it!
As for stopping asking for advice, like I said you don't have to click on the thread.
What I don't understand is this attitude that I should do what you say or I'm wrong. Ridiculous! You want me to swap an engine or give up on the car I want. I already explained why I don't want to swap engines.
I just don't know what or who entitles you to tell me I should give up and buy something else. Really, those who don't have anything to contribute should just ignore and not post. It's getting cluttered again. We are on page 2 and we only have a couple of useful replies and they are getting lost in the nonsense.
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Asking the same question 40 different ways starts to get irksome, especially when you don't actually read the advice given.
Manual cars may well be easier to find in other markets, this isn't a surprise...
But to answer your latest question, "Least complicated route to a 3.0 MV6 manual?"
Come over here and buy the only one you find. Then take it home, spend a fortune restoring it and come back to bitch about the fact that it's righthand drive.
MV6 wasn't a Euroland model iirc ::) so you're well on a hiding to nothing. ;D
This should not be news, as the last 4 times you've asked have all given the same responses.
So please, either crack on and get done, or stop asking for advice on the subject.
I'm sorry but I don't think you know what you are talking about when it comes to Euroland Omegas. Actually I can see you don't have the faintest idea. MV6 was indeed a model here ::). Google it!
As for stopping asking for advice, like I said you don't have to click on the thread.
What I don't understand is this attitude that I should do what you say or I'm wrong. Ridiculous! You want me to swap an engine or give up on the car I want. I already explained why I don't want to swap engines.
I just don't know what or who entitles you to tell me I should give up and buy something else. Really, those who don't have anything to contribute should just ignore and not post. It's getting cluttered again. We are on page 2 and we only have a couple of useful replies and they are getting lost in the nonsense.
and just what do you think gives you any right to say who posts where or what ?? You have asked questions on an open forum, you don't like/agree with the answers you get, so you try and tell folk not to post ??? Not quite sure you understand just how an open forum works ..... :)
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(https://media.giphy.com/media/hnVu1KjyLZetW/giphy.gif)
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(http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c170/jimmy944/C7DE173E-EF13-4A8B-B412-93E19BFDDD71.png.jpeg) (http://s27.photobucket.com/user/jimmy944/media/C7DE173E-EF13-4A8B-B412-93E19BFDDD71.png.jpeg.html)
I suspect you picked the wrong forum to have a rant on OP. Blood in the water to the regulars ;D
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It seems to me that you have in essence answered your own question.You've identified the model and spec you want and are prepared to wait at least a reasonable length of time to find it.Failing that buy the best bodied automatic you can find and swap gearboxes,even taking into account the other bits beside the gearbox itself I would think this to be the cheaper/easier option as opposed to going the engine swap route.I cannot speak from experience as I've never done this-I think the manual box on Omegas[and the Senators before them] is an awful device-but it's each to their own.
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Summat like this:
http://suchen.mobile.de/fahrzeuge/details.html?id=232770007&isSearchRequest=true&fuels=PETROL&sortOption.sortBy=searchNetGrossPrice&scopeId=C&damageUnrepaired=NO_DAMAGE_UNREPAIRED&sortOption.sortOrder=DESCENDING&minPowerAsArray=110&minPowerAsArray=KW&makeModelVariant1.makeId=19000&makeModelVariant1.modelId=20&pageNumber=2&action=eyeCatcher
or this:
http://suchen.mobile.de/fahrzeuge/details.html?id=228206254&scopeId=C&sortOption.sortBy=searchNetGrossPrice&damageUnrepaired=NO_DAMAGE_UNREPAIRED&sortOption.sortOrder=DESCENDING&fuels=PETROL&isSearchRequest=true&minPowerAsArray=110&minPowerAsArray=KW&makeModelVariant1.makeId=19000&makeModelVariant1.modelId=20&pageNumber=2
or this!:
http://suchen.mobile.de/fahrzeuge/details.html?id=233792308&isSearchRequest=true&scopeId=C&sortOption.sortBy=searchNetGrossPrice&damageUnrepaired=NO_DAMAGE_UNREPAIRED&fuels=PETROL&sortOption.sortOrder=DESCENDING&minPowerAsArray=110&minPowerAsArray=KW&makeModelVariant1.makeId=19000&makeModelVariant1.modelId=20&pageNumber=2
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Suspect that, in order, the responses will be too chavy, wrong engine/shape, too new ::)
If that third one is genuinely an MV6, then euroland specs do not resemble UK specs in any way, shape or form, which keeps us at cross purposes.
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Suspect that, in order, the responses will be too chavy, wrong engine/shape, too new ::)
If that third one is genuinely an MV6, then euroland specs do not resemble UK specs in any way, shape or form, which keeps us at cross purposes.
The top one is an MV6. But i don´t think the bottom is, since it has the wrong interior. MV6´s usually came with sports cloth or leather.
In Euroland MV6 spec was available up until the change to DBW v6´s, after that It became "sport".
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The top one "in chavved" and manual swapped would be nice 8) :y
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Suspect that, in order, the responses will be too chavy, wrong engine/shape, too new ::)
If that third one is genuinely an MV6, then euroland specs do not resemble UK specs in any way, shape or form, which keeps us at cross purposes.
I seem to recall the Facelift euro MV6 was similar in spec to the UK Elite but looking at that one it looks more like a UK CD spec! Anyway, i'll stand back and prepare to get flamed for daring to mention a Facelift on another one of the OP's threads.
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Suspect that, in order, the responses will be too chavy, wrong engine/shape, too new ::)
If that third one is genuinely an MV6, then euroland specs do not resemble UK specs in any way, shape or form, which keeps us at cross purposes.
I seem to recall the Facelift euro MV6 was similar in spec to the UK Elite but looking at that one it looks more like a UK CD spec! Anyway, i'll stand back and prepare to get flamed for daring to mention a Facelift on another one of the OP's threads.
How very dare you :o
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It seems to me that you have in essence answered your own question.You've identified the model and spec you want and are prepared to wait at least a reasonable length of time to find it.Failing that buy the best bodied automatic you can find and swap gearboxes,even taking into account the other bits beside the gearbox itself I would think this to be the cheaper/easier option as opposed to going the engine swap route.I cannot speak from experience as I've never done this-I think the manual box on Omegas[and the Senators before them] is an awful device-but it's each to their own.
Yes, I'm prepared to wait. What I wanted to clear up is if I should really pass if I find an extra clean, extra low mileage, great priced V6 3.0 because it's an automatic. Or if it would be worth it going through a conversion from auto to manual. Because that would certainly considerably increase my options. But so far I've got conflicting accounts of how difficult the task is. Although reading some steps it seems it's probably not worth it. Unless it's in fantastic condition, all boxes tickled but transmission and being basically given away.
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Summat like this:
http://suchen.mobile.de/fahrzeuge/details.html?id=232770007&isSearchRequest=true&fuels=PETROL&sortOption.sortBy=searchNetGrossPrice&scopeId=C&damageUnrepaired=NO_DAMAGE_UNREPAIRED&sortOption.sortOrder=DESCENDING&minPowerAsArray=110&minPowerAsArray=KW&makeModelVariant1.makeId=19000&makeModelVariant1.modelId=20&pageNumber=2&action=eyeCatcher
or this:
http://suchen.mobile.de/fahrzeuge/details.html?id=228206254&scopeId=C&sortOption.sortBy=searchNetGrossPrice&damageUnrepaired=NO_DAMAGE_UNREPAIRED&sortOption.sortOrder=DESCENDING&fuels=PETROL&isSearchRequest=true&minPowerAsArray=110&minPowerAsArray=KW&makeModelVariant1.makeId=19000&makeModelVariant1.modelId=20&pageNumber=2
or this!:
http://suchen.mobile.de/fahrzeuge/details.html?id=233792308&isSearchRequest=true&scopeId=C&sortOption.sortBy=searchNetGrossPrice&damageUnrepaired=NO_DAMAGE_UNREPAIRED&fuels=PETROL&sortOption.sortOrder=DESCENDING&minPowerAsArray=110&minPowerAsArray=KW&makeModelVariant1.makeId=19000&makeModelVariant1.modelId=20&pageNumber=2
Thanks for taking the time to search and post. But none of those is a MFL V6 manual. I had seen the silver one before. The others I haven't because I'm not looking at FL at the moment.
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The top one is an MV6. But i don´t think the bottom is, since it has the wrong interior. MV6´s usually came with sports cloth or leather.
In Euroland MV6 spec was available up until the change to DBW v6´s, after that It became "sport".
The bottom one is a FL. So it can't be a MV6. Only PFL and MFL Opel Omegas are MV6s. ;)
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Suspect that, in order, the responses will be too chavy, wrong engine/shape, too new ::)
If that third one is genuinely an MV6, then euroland specs do not resemble UK specs in any way, shape or form, which keeps us at cross purposes.
The top one is an MV6. But i don´t think the bottom is, since it has the wrong interior. MV6´s usually came with sports cloth or leather.
In Euroland MV6 spec was available up until the change to DBW v6´s, after that It became "sport".
The bottom one is a FL. So it can't be a MV6. Only PFL and MFL Opel Omegas are MV6s. ;)
Like I said, the specs are all fubar... here MV6 is mfl and fl only... ::)
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Ffs, you have two ways, and two ways only to buy your perfect Omega...
Either
1. Buy the best Omega you find and convert it as required to suit your needs.
Or...
2. Buy the exact spec car, regardless of mileage/condition/history/damage etc and restore it to your satisfaction.
There is no further debate to be had. At all :-X
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So, something turned up. Horrible colour, cloth interior, only a 2.5 and not a MFL. It's a PFL. But it's manual and looks to be in good shape. Mileage is around 200 thousand Km. So not necessary low mileage. But not high either.
It's the first one which can at least be considered. So far all of them were just not worth it.
I could live with a 2.5 manual if everything else was in place. Maybe in the future I would drop in a 3.0 or even a 3.2 and be willing to go through the channels. But it's good that I don't have to do it now since it's not a 4 cylinder. Although I think the 2.5 comes with the R25, which would mean I would have to upgrade it to a R28 with the engine. But if the engine is out already I would think it's simple enough?
Like I said 2.5 would be fine if all else was in place. But that's not the case. The cloth interior doesn't bother me as I already decided I will replace any interior which is not what I want. So the main problem is it's not a MFL so I will lose on some of the features that brings it to the level of the FL, specially safety things. And also the horrible colour. I'm not sure I can live with the color. Which means it will have to be repainted. But to change a car's colour is very expensive because it's not just a mater of a simple respray. Unless you want the original colour to show when you open the doors or bonnet. So probably will cost more than the car and will never be a MFL.
The price is not particularly cheap. I could probably knock a couple of hundred off. But not cheap at all compared to what's out there. But also not in the higher side.
Hard decision. I may get it and tomorrow a perfect one shows up. Or I may not and another as good don't show for a year. The car is about 3 hours away so going to look at it just for the heck of it is not really an option.
Besides this one I also found a 3.0 manual. Colour is fine, leather interior and it's even a MFL. But it has not been on the road for a few years, has no MOT and is very far away. Actually in a different country, which complicates things bureaucratically. Price is cheap enough though. In fact about 1/3 of the other one. Mileage is about 8k lower. But I don't think it is in as good condition. Then again difficult to say by the pictures. And it has a tow bar, which is never a good sign in my opinion.
The right decision is most likely to not get desperate or impatient. But it's always hard to tell.
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You really are an indecisive Chap aren't you, and easily diversified.
My advice, for what its worth, would be walk away from the 2.5, youve decided what your after so stick to the plan. ::)
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Just to clear up the mv6 confusion: in the Opel world mv6 was the name of the top of the range 3,0 models with pretty much all the toys from 1994-1999. . Vauxhall called these Elite i think. The mv6 name was discontinued when the fl omega came out. In the Vauxhall world the mv6 was a sporting model mfl/fl with 3,0 but less "toys/equipment" and lowered suspension. (From what i picked up from this forum). As for the gearbox change its not terribly complicated but easiest if you have a donor vehicle. Cluctch and flywheel can be rare for the 3,0.
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You really are an indecisive Chap aren't you, and easily diversified.
My advice, for what its worth, would be walk away from the 2.5, youve decided what your after so stick to the plan. ::)
Yep, you are right. Hence my last paragraph in my last post. ;)
But I'm also aware I'm after something rare, so I might have to compromise.
If the unregistered 3.0 manual was a bit closer I might take the risk. It has everything I want. But at that distance it will cost me more to get the car here than the price of the car itself since I can't drive it back. And this is before finding out what kind of surprises await within.
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It seems to me that you have in essence answered your own question.You've identified the model and spec you want and are prepared to wait at least a reasonable length of time to find it.Failing that buy the best bodied automatic you can find and swap gearboxes,even taking into account the other bits beside the gearbox itself I would think this to be the cheaper/easier option as opposed to going the engine swap route.I cannot speak from experience as I've never done this-I think the manual box on Omegas[and the Senators before them] is an awful device-but it's each to their own.
Yes, I'm prepared to wait. What I wanted to clear up is if I should really pass if I find an extra clean, extra low mileage, great priced V6 3.0 because it's an automatic. Or if it would be worth it going through a conversion from auto to manual. Because that would certainly considerably increase my options. But so far I've got conflicting accounts of how difficult the task is. Although reading some steps it seems it's probably not worth it. Unless it's in fantastic condition, all boxes tickled but transmission and being basically given away.
I've done the conversion on my driveway it's not hard at all :y
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It seems to me that you have in essence answered your own question.You've identified the model and spec you want and are prepared to wait at least a reasonable length of time to find it.Failing that buy the best bodied automatic you can find and swap gearboxes,even taking into account the other bits beside the gearbox itself I would think this to be the cheaper/easier option as opposed to going the engine swap route.I cannot speak from experience as I've never done this-I think the manual box on Omegas[and the Senators before them] is an awful device-but it's each to their own.
Yes, I'm prepared to wait. What I wanted to clear up is if I should really pass if I find an extra clean, extra low mileage, great priced V6 3.0 because it's an automatic. Or if it would be worth it going through a conversion from auto to manual. Because that would certainly considerably increase my options. But so far I've got conflicting accounts of how difficult the task is. Although reading some steps it seems it's probably not worth it. Unless it's in fantastic condition, all boxes tickled but transmission and being basically given away.
I've done the conversion on my driveway it's not hard at all :y
When you talk like that it makes it seem really simple. :)
How long did it take you?
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If you fancy as day trip over here, have a word with Serek who did mine ;)
He is a good lad :y :y
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If you fancy as day trip over here, have a word with Serek who did mine ;)
He is a good lad :y :y
And if you do that, I've a 3.0l and manual gearbox for sale you could pick up on the way past. ;D
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To sum up:
'Least complicated path to a MV6 3.0 Manual' would be to get a 3.0 manual (I'm quite sure that all 3,0 are MV6 spec in europe, BTW).
Failing that route, second least complicated would be - get a 3.0 auto. This applies if a mint and cheap 3.0 auto comes around - buy it. Then drive it for some time - who knows, you might even like driving auto. And if you don't like it after all, swap the box with manual one (it's easy job).
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If you fancy as day trip over here, have a word with Serek who did mine ;)
He is a good lad :y :y
Thanks for the nice offer. But it's a very long drive from central Europe to the UK. ;)
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To sum up:
'Least complicated path to a MV6 3.0 Manual' would be to get a 3.0 manual (I'm quite sure that all 3,0 are MV6 spec in europe, BTW).
Failing that route, second least complicated would be - get a 3.0 auto. This applies if a mint and cheap 3.0 auto comes around - buy it. Then drive it for some time - who knows, you might even like driving auto. And if you don't like it after all, swap the box with manual one (it's easy job).
Naturally, buying a 3.0 manual is the least complicated path. The point is, if one doesn't find one, then what is the least complicated path. ;)
All the conflicting reports of easy vs hard job for the gearbox conversion are driving me cross-eyed though. ;D
The 3.0 manual was also available in the Omega Sport by the way. Actually it seems most 3.0 manuals are Omega Sports from what I have seen for sale.
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Naturally, buying a 3.0 manual is the least complicated path. The point is, if one doesn't find one, then what is the least complicated path. ;)
All the conflicting reports of easy vs hard job for the gearbox conversion are driving me cross-eyed though. ;D
The 3.0 manual was also available in the Omega Sport by the way. Actually it seems most 3.0 manuals are Omega Sports from what I have seen for sale.
Have you noticed that people that have actually done the conversion are saying it is not hard? It's easier to be done than it looks on paper - I'm talking from experience.
There is one more thing to consider - who will do the swap? You, or garage, or 'some guy you know'? How much will you pay for labor?
I.e. - it's a 300€ job here in croatia, if done by skilled mechanic who works in his back yard.
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Naturally, buying a 3.0 manual is the least complicated path. The point is, if one doesn't find one, then what is the least complicated path. ;)
All the conflicting reports of easy vs hard job for the gearbox conversion are driving me cross-eyed though. ;D
The 3.0 manual was also available in the Omega Sport by the way. Actually it seems most 3.0 manuals are Omega Sports from what I have seen for sale.
Have you noticed that people that have actually done the conversion are saying it is not hard? It's easier to be done than it looks on paper - I'm talking from experience.
There is one more thing to consider - who will do the swap? You, or garage, or 'some guy you know'? How much will you pay for labor?
I.e. - it's a 300€ job here in croatia, if done by skilled mechanic who works in his back yard.
You make a very good point. It does seem like all the people saying it's difficult have never done it.
Well, I have never done such a thing. But I would be willing to try if it's not difficult. I think around here it would not be cheap.
I know I'm probably asking too much. But could you write me a parts list and a rough step by step of what is needed to do it? It would help a lot to judge if it's something I want to entertain or not.
And of course, since we are putting a different gearbox in, it begs the question, could I put something better in, like a ZF or Getrag for example? Is this heard of or even worth it?
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You mean like this:
http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/index.php?topic=90592.0
Can comfortably be done in a day, the worst bit is the gearbox removal and refit.
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I have toyed with the idea of doing this to my 3.2. Might think about it again next summer.
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You mean like this:
http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/index.php?topic=90592.0
Can comfortably be done in a day, the worst bit is the gearbox removal and refit.
Thanks. I will take a look at it. :y
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You mean like this:
http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/index.php?topic=90592.0
Can comfortably be done in a day, the worst bit is the gearbox removal and refit.
Seconded, especially on your back on the drive ;D
Manual clutch change is summat like 23 bolts, five plugs and 3 spring clips.
Removing the engine is a further 2 nuts (and 4 bolts if you remove the bonnet), 3 Jubilee clips, approximately 14 plugs, 4 coolant hoses, one breather pipe, two fuel lines and the starting/charging loom.
All in all two days, including tea breaks...
If cabled throttle, add another bolt, a clip, two more plugs and a bit more air plumbing
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You mean like this:
http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/index.php?topic=90592.0
Can comfortably be done in a day, the worst bit is the gearbox removal and refit.
I have now looked at the link. That is a lot of parts. I start to understand all the suggestions to get a donor car. The thing is finding a 3.0 manual donor car is probably as hard as finding a driving one. And if not going the donor car way, I wonder how hard it is to get all the parts separately.
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You mean like this:
http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/index.php?topic=90592.0
Can comfortably be done in a day, the worst bit is the gearbox removal and refit.
Seconded, especially on your back on the drive ;D
Manual clutch change is summat like 23 bolts, five plugs and 3 spring clips.
Removing the engine is a further 2 nuts (and 4 bolts if you remove the bonnet), 3 Jubilee clips, approximately 14 plugs, 4 coolant hoses, one breather pipe, two fuel lines and the starting/charging loom.
All in all two days, including tea breaks...
If cabled throttle, add another bolt, a clip, two more plugs and a bit more air plumbing
I'm not quite sure if you are now agreeing swapping the gearbox is not difficult after having said it was, or if you are still making the point for an engine swap instead.
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You mean like this:
http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/index.php?topic=90592.0
Can comfortably be done in a day, the worst bit is the gearbox removal and refit.
I have now looked at the link. That is a lot of parts. I start to understand all the suggestions to get a donor car. The thing is finding a 3.0 manual donor car is probably as hard as finding a driving one. And if not going the donor car way, I wonder how hard it is to get all the parts separately.
Which is why many of us suggested fitting a 3.0l to a manual 2.5. Engines are easy to find, and there are no external differences to show you've done it.
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You mean like this:
http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/index.php?topic=90592.0
Can comfortably be done in a day, the worst bit is the gearbox removal and refit.
I have now looked at the link. That is a lot of parts. I start to understand all the suggestions to get a donor car. The thing is finding a 3.0 manual donor car is probably as hard as finding a driving one. And if not going the donor car way, I wonder how hard it is to get all the parts separately.
Which is why many of us suggested fitting a 3.0l to a manual 2.5. Engines are easy to find, and there are no external differences to show you've done it.
I have thought of it. It would definitely be more discreet than starting from a 4 cylinders which I really won't do. As far as I know they don't check your power output for the MOT here. Although if you are stooped and they decide they have any reason other than the engine to send your car for a check up, once there they would most likely check the engine too for good measure. Then the cat is out of the bag and you you are in deep trouble. This reason could be anything. Aftermarket wheels, exhaust, anything really.
But it is at least very different from your registration saying 4 cylinders and they finding a V6 under the bonnet. Chances of suspecting the engine since it's still a V6 are slim. So it would be down to your luck of them not picking on anything else to send you. Although the 2.5 is slightly different visually from the 3.0 and 3.2, right? I have the impression the intake piece over the 2.5 is flat at the front while the 3.0 and 3.2 end on a sort of cone at the front. Unless this is just a variation from year to year instead of between the 2.5 and the 3.0 and 3.2.
But wouldn't I need a donor car just the same? I will need all the parts from the 3.0 right? Including ECU and other bits. Will the ECU from a 3.0 automatic work? Because if I still need a 3.0 manual donor then I'm in the same boat as finding it for a gearbox swap.
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Older 3,0 have the short intake and are identical to the 2,5 in apperance. Newer 3,0 have the longer intake. As for changing the engine, you can get away with just the engine. I once bought an omega 2,5 manual as a donor car. It had a 3,0 engine which someone had put in there. The 3,0 in that ran quite happily with the 2,5 ecu. Dont know if it maybe affected the power output...
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I never said swapping the gearbox was difficult ::)
What I actually said was that buying a good condition 2.5 manual would be easier, as they are more common, and that fitting a 3.0 lump would be an efficient way of building your perfect car.
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Older 3,0 have the short intake and are identical to the 2,5 in apperance. Newer 3,0 have the longer intake. As for changing the engine, you can get away with just the engine. I once bought an omega 2,5 manual as a donor car. It had a 3,0 engine which someone had put in there. The 3,0 in that ran quite happily with the 2,5 ecu. Dont know if it maybe affected the power output...
Yes, that is the question. If it will affect the power output. And also, what "getting away with it" would actually mean. What else I would be missing or losing.
Understood about the intake differences. :y
Are the short intakes in PFL cars and the longer ones in MFL and FL cars?
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Older 3,0 have the short intake and are identical to the 2,5 in apperance. Newer 3,0 have the longer intake. As for changing the engine, you can get away with just the engine. I once bought an omega 2,5 manual as a donor car. It had a 3,0 engine which someone had put in there. The 3,0 in that ran quite happily with the 2,5 ecu. Dont know if it maybe affected the power output...
Yes, that is the question. If it will affect the power output. And also, what "getting away with it" would actually mean. What else I would be missing or losing.
Understood about the intake differences. :y
Are the short intakes in PFL cars and the longer ones in MFL and FL cars?
No,
Short on all 2.5's and early 3.0's.
Longer on later 3.0's (1998 on) and on 2.6/3.2.
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I never said swapping the gearbox was difficult ::)
What I actually said was that buying a good condition 2.5 manual would be easier, as they are more common, and that fitting a 3.0 lump would be an efficient way of building your perfect car.
OK. Then I totally misunderstood you. Sometimes it reads as you speak in code. :)
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.... Sometimes it reads as you speak in code. :)
(http://www.anbg.gov.au/images/flags/semaphore/p-icon.gif)(http://www.anbg.gov.au/images/flags/semaphore/l-icon.gif)(http://www.anbg.gov.au/images/flags/semaphore/e-icon.gif)(http://www.anbg.gov.au/images/flags/semaphore/a-icon.gif)(http://www.anbg.gov.au/images/flags/semaphore/s-icon.gif)(http://www.anbg.gov.au/images/flags/semaphore/e-icon.gif)
(http://www.anbg.gov.au/images/flags/semaphore/p-icon.gif)(http://www.anbg.gov.au/images/flags/semaphore/l-icon.gif)(http://www.anbg.gov.au/images/flags/semaphore/e-icon.gif)(http://www.anbg.gov.au/images/flags/semaphore/a-icon.gif)(http://www.anbg.gov.au/images/flags/semaphore/s-icon.gif)(http://www.anbg.gov.au/images/flags/semaphore/e-icon.gif)
(http://www.anbg.gov.au/images/flags/semaphore/b-icon.gif)(http://www.anbg.gov.au/images/flags/semaphore/u-icon.gif)(http://www.anbg.gov.au/images/flags/semaphore/y-icon.gif)
(http://www.anbg.gov.au/images/flags/semaphore/a-icon.gif) (http://www.anbg.gov.au/images/flags/semaphore/c-icon.gif)(http://www.anbg.gov.au/images/flags/semaphore/c-icon.gif)(http://www.anbg.gov.au/images/flags/semaphore/r-icon.gif)
::)
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.... Sometimes it reads as you speak in code. :)
(http://www.anbg.gov.au/images/flags/semaphore/p-icon.gif)(http://www.anbg.gov.au/images/flags/semaphore/l-icon.gif)(http://www.anbg.gov.au/images/flags/semaphore/e-icon.gif)(http://www.anbg.gov.au/images/flags/semaphore/a-icon.gif)(http://www.anbg.gov.au/images/flags/semaphore/s-icon.gif)(http://www.anbg.gov.au/images/flags/semaphore/e-icon.gif)
(http://www.anbg.gov.au/images/flags/semaphore/p-icon.gif)(http://www.anbg.gov.au/images/flags/semaphore/l-icon.gif)(http://www.anbg.gov.au/images/flags/semaphore/e-icon.gif)(http://www.anbg.gov.au/images/flags/semaphore/a-icon.gif)(http://www.anbg.gov.au/images/flags/semaphore/s-icon.gif)(http://www.anbg.gov.au/images/flags/semaphore/e-icon.gif)
(http://www.anbg.gov.au/images/flags/semaphore/b-icon.gif)(http://www.anbg.gov.au/images/flags/semaphore/u-icon.gif)(http://www.anbg.gov.au/images/flags/semaphore/y-icon.gif)
(http://www.anbg.gov.au/images/flags/semaphore/a-icon.gif) (http://www.anbg.gov.au/images/flags/semaphore/c-icon.gif)(http://www.anbg.gov.au/images/flags/semaphore/c-icon.gif)(http://www.anbg.gov.au/images/flags/semaphore/r-icon.gif)
::)
;D ;D
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...
;D ;D
;) :y :y
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You mean like this:
http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/index.php?topic=90592.0
Can comfortably be done in a day, the worst bit is the gearbox removal and refit.
I have now looked at the link. That is a lot of parts. I start to understand all the suggestions to get a donor car. The thing is finding a 3.0 manual donor car is probably as hard as finding a driving one. And if not going the donor car way, I wonder how hard it is to get all the parts separately.
Which is why many of us suggested fitting a 3.0l to a manual 2.5. Engines are easy to find, and there are no external differences to show you've done it.
I have thought of it. It would definitely be more discreet than starting from a 4 cylinders which I really won't do. As far as I know they don't check your power output for the MOT here. Although if you are stooped and they decide they have any reason other than the engine to send your car for a check up, once there they would most likely check the engine too for good measure. Then the cat is out of the bag and you you are in deep trouble. This reason could be anything. Aftermarket wheels, exhaust, anything really.
But it is at least very different from your registration saying 4 cylinders and they finding a V6 under the bonnet. Chances of suspecting the engine since it's still a V6 are slim. So it would be down to your luck of them not picking on anything else to send you. Although the 2.5 is slightly different visually from the 3.0 and 3.2, right? I have the impression the intake piece over the 2.5 is flat at the front while the 3.0 and 3.2 end on a sort of cone at the front. Unless this is just a variation from year to year instead of between the 2.5 and the 3.0 and 3.2.
But wouldn't I need a donor car just the same? I will need all the parts from the 3.0 right? Including ECU and other bits. Will the ECU from a 3.0 automatic work? Because if I still need a 3.0 manual donor then I'm in the same boat as finding it for a gearbox swap.
Older 3,0 have the short intake and are identical to the 2,5 in apperance. Newer 3,0 have the longer intake. As for changing the engine, you can get away with just the engine. I once bought an omega 2,5 manual as a donor car. It had a 3,0 engine which someone had put in there. The 3,0 in that ran quite happily with the 2,5 ecu. Dont know if it maybe affected the power output...
Yes, that is the question. If it will affect the power output. And also, what "getting away with it" would actually mean. What else I would be missing or losing.
Just bumping this to see if anybody could address the 2 points above. ;)
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If you choose to put a 3,0 into an omega 2,5 it will work with just changing the engine. The difference is that the 2,5 has different ecu(which will work with the 3,0) and the manual gearbox of the 2,5 is r25 while the 3,0 has r28 gearbox. R28 can take more torque than the r25 but many people have run 3,0 engines with the 2,5's r25 gearbox without issues.
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If you choose to put a 3,0 into an omega 2,5 it will work with just changing the engine. The difference is that the 2,5 has different ecu(which will work with the 3,0) and the manual gearbox of the 2,5 is r25 while the 3,0 has r28 gearbox. R28 can take more torque than the r25 but many people have run 3,0 engines with the 2,5's r25 gearbox without issues.
Thanks. But is there any downside to keeping the 2.5 ECU as opposed to using a 3.0 ECU? Will it affect the power output?
And if I would use a 3.0 ECU does it have to be the ECU of a 3.0 manual or any 3.0 ECU including from an automatic would work?
On the subject of gearboxes, if I'm swapping the engine I would swap the gearbox as well. Since the engine is out might as well do the gearbox. The R28 is easy enough to come buy and cheap enough. But is it a straight swap or am I looking at electronic puzzles to solve for the swap?
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Seriously mate, go back and read what I and many others have said ;) :-X
Or learn semaphore :y :y
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Seriously mate, go back and read what I and many others have said ;) :-X
Or learn semaphore :y :y
First thread iirc :-X
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....
Or learn semaphore :y :y
::) ::) ::)
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So, something turned up. Horrible colour, cloth interior, only a 2.5 and not a MFL. It's a PFL. But it's manual and looks to be in good shape. Mileage is around 200 thousand Km. So not necessary low mileage. But not high either.
It's the first one which can at least be considered. So far all of them were just not worth it.
........
I have read the whole thread and admire your persistence. I also admire your humour, as I assume the above was said in jest. :'(
The 'car to be considered' is the wrong colour, wrong interior, wrong engine and the wrong model year, but it has a manual gearbox so you are getting closer. ;) :y
For what it's worth, when I swapped my engine all I needed was an engineers report, as the car was essentially the same, but then I am UK based and as you say, things are different where you are. :y
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........
I have read the whole thread and ....
That was way above the call of duty :o ..... I hope you had a lie down afterwards ::) ::) ;)
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........
I have read the whole thread and ....
That was way above the call of duty :o ..... I hope you had a lie down afterwards ::) ::) ;)
You know me Andy, I'm a dedicated soul ;D ........ and I was laying down when I posted. :y Will we get chastised for digressing. ;)
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So, something turned up. Horrible colour, cloth interior, only a 2.5 and not a MFL. It's a PFL. But it's manual and looks to be in good shape. Mileage is around 200 thousand Km. So not necessary low mileage. But not high either.
It's the first one which can at least be considered. So far all of them were just not worth it.
........
I have read the whole thread and admire your persistence. I also admire your humour, as I assume the above was said in jest. :'(
The 'car to be considered' is the wrong colour, wrong interior, wrong engine and the wrong model year, but it has a manual gearbox so you are getting closer. ;) :y
For what it's worth, when I swapped my engine all I needed was an engineers report, as the car was essentially the same, but then I am UK based and as you say, things are different where you are. :y
Well, we have 2 other cars. So I'm not exactly in a hurry. I'm not desperate for a car. So I can be patient. Of course I would prefer having it sooner rather than later. But it needs to be the right car or something that will allow me to get there without much fuzz. So basically either a 2.5 manual or the proper 3.0 manual. Once I find it, it will be a keeper for sure.
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Seriously mate, go back and read what I and many others have said ;) :-X
Or learn semaphore :y :y
Don't recall any talks of the effect of using the 2.5 ECU on a 3.0.
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........
I have read the whole thread and ....
That was way above the call of duty :o ..... I hope you had a lie down afterwards ::) ::) ;)
You know me Andy, I'm a dedicated soul ;D ........ and I was laying down when I posted. :y Will we get chastised for digressing. ;)
Digressing is better than going on about a mythical car again & again & again & again ...........
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Seriously mate, go back and read what I and many others have said ;) :-X
Or learn semaphore :y :y
Don't recall any talks of the effect of using the 2.5 ECU on a 3.0.
Sorry, got my posters mixed up :)
http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/index.php?topic=138165.msg1778465#msg1778465
Post 5
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I see. Thanks.
By the way, I may have found something. Price is good. It was an automatic which was converted to manual. It has a few problems. It seems the display is not working properly. There is also a problem with the power steering pump. But a new one is supposed to be included. Makes you wonder why not change it before the sale. Is it an expensive or difficult job?
And is there something to look out for with a converted to manual car? Something to make sure was done properly?