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[Nick W]

You mean like this:

http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/index.php?topic=90592.0

Can comfortably be done in a day, the worst bit is the gearbox removal and refit.

I have now looked at the link. That is a lot of parts. I start to understand all the suggestions to get a donor car. The thing is finding a 3.0 manual donor car is probably as hard as finding a driving one. And if not going the donor car way, I wonder how hard it is to get all the parts separately.

Which is why many of us suggested fitting a 3.0l to a manual 2.5. Engines are easy to find, and there are no external differences to show you've done it.

[anV6]

You mean like this:

http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/index.php?topic=90592.0

Can comfortably be done in a day, the worst bit is the gearbox removal and refit.

I have now looked at the link. That is a lot of parts. I start to understand all the suggestions to get a donor car. The thing is finding a 3.0 manual donor car is probably as hard as finding a driving one. And if not going the donor car way, I wonder how hard it is to get all the parts separately.

Which is why many of us suggested fitting a 3.0l to a manual 2.5. Engines are easy to find, and there are no external differences to show you've done it.

I have thought of it. It would definitely be more discreet than starting from a 4 cylinders which I really won't do. As far as I know they don't check your power output for the MOT here. Although if you are stooped and they decide they have any reason other than the engine to send your car for a check up, once there they would most likely check the engine too for good measure. Then the cat is out of the bag and you you are in deep trouble. This reason could be anything. Aftermarket wheels, exhaust, anything really.

But it is at least very different from your registration saying 4 cylinders and they finding a V6 under the bonnet. Chances of suspecting the engine since it's still a V6 are slim. So it would be down to your luck of them not picking on anything else to send you. Although the 2.5 is slightly different visually from the 3.0 and 3.2, right? I have the impression the intake piece over the 2.5 is flat at the front while the 3.0 and 3.2 end on a sort of cone at the front. Unless this is just a variation from year to year instead of between the 2.5 and the 3.0 and 3.2.

But wouldn't I need a donor car just the same? I will need all the parts from the 3.0 right? Including ECU and other bits. Will the ECU from a 3.0 automatic work? Because if I still need a 3.0 manual donor then I'm in the same boat as finding it for a gearbox swap.

[MonzaGSE]

Older 3,0 have the short intake and are identical to the 2,5 in apperance. Newer 3,0 have the longer intake. As for changing the engine, you can get away with just the engine. I once bought an omega 2,5 manual as a donor car. It had a 3,0 engine which someone had put in there. The 3,0 in that ran quite happily with the 2,5 ecu. Dont know if it maybe affected the power output...

[Doctor Gollum]

I never said swapping the gearbox was difficult

What I actually said was that buying a good condition 2.5 manual would be easier, as they are more common, and that fitting a 3.0 lump would be an efficient way of building your perfect car.

[anV6]

Older 3,0 have the short intake and are identical to the 2,5 in apperance. Newer 3,0 have the longer intake. As for changing the engine, you can get away with just the engine. I once bought an omega 2,5 manual as a donor car. It had a 3,0 engine which someone had put in there. The 3,0 in that ran quite happily with the 2,5 ecu. Dont know if it maybe affected the power output...

Yes, that is the question. If it will affect the power output. And also, what "getting away with it" would actually mean. What else I would be missing or losing.

Understood about the intake differences.

Are the short intakes in PFL cars and the longer ones in MFL and FL cars?

[tunnie]

Older 3,0 have the short intake and are identical to the 2,5 in apperance. Newer 3,0 have the longer intake. As for changing the engine, you can get away with just the engine. I once bought an omega 2,5 manual as a donor car. It had a 3,0 engine which someone had put in there. The 3,0 in that ran quite happily with the 2,5 ecu. Dont know if it maybe affected the power output...

Yes, that is the question. If it will affect the power output. And also, what "getting away with it" would actually mean. What else I would be missing or losing.

Understood about the intake differences.

Are the short intakes in PFL cars and the longer ones in MFL and FL cars?

No,

Short on all 2.5's and early 3.0's.

Longer on later 3.0's (1998 on) and on 2.6/3.2.

[anV6]

I never said swapping the gearbox was difficult

What I actually said was that buying a good condition 2.5 manual would be easier, as they are more common, and that fitting a 3.0 lump would be an efficient way of building your perfect car.

OK. Then I totally misunderstood you. Sometimes it reads as you speak in code.

[Andy B]

.... Sometimes it reads as you speak in code.

 





 

[henryd]

.... Sometimes it reads as you speak in code.

 





 

 

[Andy B]

...
 

 

[anV6]

You mean like this:

http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/index.php?topic=90592.0

Can comfortably be done in a day, the worst bit is the gearbox removal and refit.

I have now looked at the link. That is a lot of parts. I start to understand all the suggestions to get a donor car. The thing is finding a 3.0 manual donor car is probably as hard as finding a driving one. And if not going the donor car way, I wonder how hard it is to get all the parts separately.

Which is why many of us suggested fitting a 3.0l to a manual 2.5. Engines are easy to find, and there are no external differences to show you've done it.

I have thought of it. It would definitely be more discreet than starting from a 4 cylinders which I really won't do. As far as I know they don't check your power output for the MOT here. Although if you are stooped and they decide they have any reason other than the engine to send your car for a check up, once there they would most likely check the engine too for good measure. Then the cat is out of the bag and you you are in deep trouble. This reason could be anything. Aftermarket wheels, exhaust, anything really.

But it is at least very different from your registration saying 4 cylinders and they finding a V6 under the bonnet. Chances of suspecting the engine since it's still a V6 are slim. So it would be down to your luck of them not picking on anything else to send you. Although the 2.5 is slightly different visually from the 3.0 and 3.2, right? I have the impression the intake piece over the 2.5 is flat at the front while the 3.0 and 3.2 end on a sort of cone at the front. Unless this is just a variation from year to year instead of between the 2.5 and the 3.0 and 3.2.

But wouldn't I need a donor car just the same? I will need all the parts from the 3.0 right? Including ECU and other bits. Will the ECU from a 3.0 automatic work? Because if I still need a 3.0 manual donor then I'm in the same boat as finding it for a gearbox swap.

Older 3,0 have the short intake and are identical to the 2,5 in apperance. Newer 3,0 have the longer intake. As for changing the engine, you can get away with just the engine. I once bought an omega 2,5 manual as a donor car. It had a 3,0 engine which someone had put in there. The 3,0 in that ran quite happily with the 2,5 ecu. Dont know if it maybe affected the power output...

Yes, that is the question. If it will affect the power output. And also, what "getting away with it" would actually mean. What else I would be missing or losing.

Just bumping this to see if anybody could address the 2 points above. 

[MonzaGSE]

If you choose to put a 3,0 into an omega 2,5 it will work with just changing the engine. The difference is that the 2,5 has different ecu(which will work with the 3,0) and the manual gearbox of the 2,5 is r25 while the 3,0 has r28 gearbox. R28 can take more torque than the r25 but many people have run 3,0 engines with the 2,5's r25 gearbox without issues.

[anV6]

If you choose to put a 3,0 into an omega 2,5 it will work with just changing the engine. The difference is that the 2,5 has different ecu(which will work with the 3,0) and the manual gearbox of the 2,5 is r25 while the 3,0 has r28 gearbox. R28 can take more torque than the r25 but many people have run 3,0 engines with the 2,5's r25 gearbox without issues.

Thanks. But is there any downside to keeping the 2.5 ECU as opposed to using a 3.0 ECU? Will it affect the power output?

 And if I would use a 3.0 ECU does it have to be the ECU of a 3.0 manual or any 3.0 ECU including from an automatic would work?

On the subject of gearboxes, if I'm swapping the engine I would swap the gearbox as well. Since the engine is out might as well do the gearbox. The R28 is easy enough to come buy and cheap enough. But is it a straight swap or am I looking at electronic puzzles to solve for the swap?

[tigers_gonads]

Seriously mate, go back and read what I and many others have said 


Or learn semaphore 

[Doctor Gollum]

Seriously mate, go back and read what I and many others have said 


Or learn semaphore 

First thread iirc