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1

Omega Electrical and Audio Help / Re: Omega-B Transponder

« on: 31 March 2013, 18:13:26 »

Well it paired the remote with the alarm system,OK.

But I was really asking if one needs to erase all transponders and then re-match the good key and add the new one or should one just be able to add the new transponder irrespective of the programmer in use.

If the motor trade didn't charge such stupid prices for servicing and trivial updates, then the second market items wouldn't be so popular.

2

Omega Electrical and Audio Help / Omega-B Transponder

« on: 31 March 2013, 12:06:21 »

This doesn't quite fit any existing thread so here goes:

I am trying to program a new spare key with a brand new transponder chip in it. The existing key works OK with both the central locking and the immobiliser.

I'm using an "My Naff Code Reader" but the question probably applies to a Tech2 as well. I was trying to add the new key as transponder 3 but no luck.

Do I need to erase all transponders and then re-match the good key and add the new one or should I just be able to add the new one?

I should have said that I have the car pass and can access all menus.

3

Omega General Help / Re: Wish bone help please.

« on: 25 May 2011, 02:56:51 »

Not sure I'd go down the cheap route again. All 3 joints on them are rubbish.

I ended up getting replacement bushes and swivel joints and refurbishing the original wishbones. One thing I did do though was assemble the front bushes 90 degrees rotated to the originals as the bushes are the "figure of eight type". The original fitment leaves them weakest in the lateral direction (or strongest vertically). Where is the sense in that?

The steering is now much more precise with none of the floppiness over white lines or camber changes. More importantly the tyre wear is much, much better.

I looked for poly bushes at the time but couldn't find any to fit an Omega.

4

Omega General Help / Air con high pressure switch

« on: 24 May 2011, 18:15:48 »

2.5 V6 1999

Anyone know where the air-con high pressure switch is located. I've found the low pressure one and that seems OK (after a bit of WD40 on the contacts).

Also, are there any other active components in the air-con system; like for example a shut off valve ?

I've got the usual problem:
System gassed
Clutch engages
Inlet side of compressor drops 10+ psi when the clutch engages (which should mean it is compressing OK)
But no cold air.

I read somewhere that the hot water side should be inhibited when the air-con is in use but AFAIR when it was all new I could have air-con and the heater running together - great for demisting as the air-con was just dehumidifying the air.

All help / comments welcome.

Ken

5

Omega General Help / Re: How to spot faulty compressor

« on: 24 May 2011, 17:18:48 »

Re my post above - the car is a 99 2.5 V6.

Earlier models seem to have a  slightly different wiring to the relay box, so check a wiring diagram before trying the jumper check.

BTW a slight top-up and a clean of the low pressure switch contacts has restored normal clutch and refrigerant operation but still no cold air I have no idea where the high pressure switch is (my Omega doesn't seem to have a triple switch but two separate ones). Will post a new Thread about that.

6

Omega General Help / Re: How to spot faulty compressor

« on: 18 May 2011, 21:49:53 »

I think he means that there are only two real faults that you can blame on the compressor (as listed).

There are many other reasons why a compressor may not run. The relay which controls the compressor is fed from the ECU.

At present I'm trouble shooting mine as there is no power to the compressor. Removing relay 5 in the under-bonnet box and jumping power directly to the relay socket pin 8 brings on the clutch and the auxiliary fan - that has allowed me to check the low pressure side of the system is OK. So now it is just a matter of finding what switch is inhibiting relay 6.

7

Omega General Help / Re: Part Location

« on: 24 May 2011, 17:01:06 »

So if blocking off the EGR valve has improved the running then that must point to part of the problem.

Cant see how the valve body could leak as just a cylinder with a gasket to seal.

My EGR leaks between the valve body and the solenoid. Can't see how it comes apart so I can seal it though.

8

Omega General Help / Re: egr valve?

« on: 18 May 2011, 22:44:33 »

Bit late with the reply but if it sticks it will cause the ECU warning light to come on randomly.

Mine has a slight gas leak that sounds like a quiet AK45 

9

General Discussion Area / Re: Usual cambelt arguement

« on: 30 October 2009, 17:46:05 »

Just to confirm a few points:

The plate I removed was an 01 too.

Yes I used the locking kit.

----
The new belt was the same length and number of teeth as the old one.

The real giveaway was that the four cam marks on the belt were wrong. The distance between 1 and 2 was OK as was 3 and 4  but the two pairs of markings (that is between 2 and 3) were about 6 teeth too close together so they wouldn't all line up when threaded round the intermediate adjuster. (The adjuster only compensates for about 1 or 2 teeth).

The distance from the crank marking to the cam pulley 1 marking was correct.

Weird eh!!

10

General Discussion Area / Re: Usual cambelt arguement

« on: 29 October 2009, 23:29:12 »

While on the subject of V6 cam belt kits, I have just done one on a 1999 Omega 2.5 using the SKF kit AS 920 1887. The tensioner backplate is 01.

The belt is a Powerdrive one but the white timing marks were wrong. The crank and pulleys 1 and 2 were OK but the marks for pulleys 3 and 4 were well out.

I checked and double checked that I hadn't done anything stupid but no, it was the markings.

Any one else had this ?

11

General Discussion Area / Re: Wishbones.

« on: 31 July 2008, 18:01:44 »

Found these ?

http://www.meyle.com/Home/application.asp?lan=us&images=off&ma=84&de=30713069069&mo=14201777488&ba=14201772640&

That MEYLE Part No. 614 035 0016 is common to almost the whole Omega B ranges front axle, left and right lower front bushes; it has an outer Ø 58,5 mm.

What I find strange is that the major road loading will only act laterally on the front bush but the cut outs in the rubber mean that is its weakest direction. Did someone at Opel screw up when the presses were set up and that error has been perpetuated ever since ?

I've been in contact with PowerFlex and they can only identify their items by specific car models. There isn't one that has been earmarked for the Omega B.

BTW the central retaining bolt is 14mm and the width between the chassis mounting ( = centre tube width) is 56mm. The Width of the outer casing on a standad bush is 48mm.