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[charlie]

i think if you switch the isolating switch off before 15 seconds after switching off  the ingition then the alarm shouldnt sound on reapplying the power.then if the batterys good after leaving it a long time, its one thing off the check list

[Kevin Wood]

I say fitting an isolator is curing one of the symptoms without fixing the real fault. Not cecessary IMHO. Yes, it will upset the alarm every time you turn it off unless you remove the power sounder.

A 2 year old battery of a decent brand should not have failed by now, so something else is wrong, IMHO.

What (if any) diagnosis did National Tyres do to determine that it is the battery?

If you want to get to the bottom of this I suggest you work through this guide before parting with any cash.

http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/YaBB.pl?num=1225724099

.. and I'd love to know where I can buy one of these batteries with a 25 year warranty. That would save me a fortune on batteries for my kit car.

Kevin

[Wayne]

Kevin

National Tyres didn't test the battery as they were too busy today, no problem though

they have stopped stocking VARTA now, interesting ey?
BMW fit them in ALL their cars as standard, so they got to be good batteries

i explained all the issues and the guy did say they have replaced a few Vartas WITHIN warranty, Mmmmmm?

so they are fitting me one of these
http://www.ukbatteries.co.uk/products_brand_platinum_prestige.asp

the isolator switch is needed as i only use my car once or twice a week on short journeys
i will disconnect the annoying power sounder tomorrow, is that easy to do?

[Wayne]

all of the below has been done by Isis Rescue in Oxford and by 2 mechanics, ALL tests were fine, Alternator is fine and the battery was giving our a normal charge

the only thing i haven't done is Number 10

1) Try to charge the battery, ideally using a mains powered battery charger for a couple of hours, to ensure it is likely to be fully charged.
2) Allow the battery to settle for perhaps 15 minutes after charging so the terminal voltage reflecs its' true condition.
3) Measure the terminal voltage of the battery.
4) Apply some load (e.g. car headlights) and watch the terminal voltage for a minute or two.
5) Switch off all loads, start the engine, and, ideally, have someone watching the battery voltage while cranking the engine.
6) Measure the terminal voltage with engine at a normal idling speed.
7) Increase engine speed to a fast idle (2,000 RPM) and measure the voltage.
Add some electrical load (headlights, blower fan, heated rear window) and measure the voltage at idle speed.
9) Increase engine speed to a fast idle (2,000 RPM) and measure the voltage.
10) Check electrical connections to battery, starter and alternator and also all chassis ground connections in the engine bay for heat.

[Wayne]

guys

tested all the fuses yesterday, under the bonnet and under the steering wheel, NOTHING is making a drain on the battery when the car is switched off,  i am now totally bemused as to why after 6+ days the car wont bloody start, the crank sensors been replaced just 6 months ago as the car wouldnt start at all back then..

all readings taken show the battery is ok and so is the alternator

when car started and left idling without revving it, it was reading 14 volts
when i turnt heated seats on, climate control, lights and everything else i could find, it dropped to 12.3 volts

so all sounds normal i take it?

[Andy H]

When my battery was on its last legs a few months ago I did a check of the voltage with & without load.

IIRC I got 14.4v no load and 13.8v with everything switched on.

If you are only getting 12.3v then I would start by checking the battery leads (the crimped end connections fail).

[Wayne]

checked all the connections and they are in excellent condition, no frays or loose anything

battery is being replaced on Monday next week, will leave my car on the drive with new battery fitted, and see if it gives me same problem...
would a faulty powersounder drain the battery?