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[dbug]

Little bit more progress, picked up a new oil cooler pipe bolt from Vauxhalls, bloody thing is too big to go through the banjo on the end of the oil cooler pipe. Decided to try one of the bolts from the coolant bridge, fitted a treat and the oil cooler bolt fitted the bridge.  I notice they are different part numbers but a comparisson of the two they look identical - will i be okay leaving it like this?

Got the coolant tank cleaned, next is the hoses and flushing the radiator before starting to put the top back on the engine.

No - I used a coolant bridge bolt for the oil cooler after shearing a bolt.  They look the same but the length of thread is slightly different.  Result after torquing up - oil pi**ed out!  Fitted correct bolts sealed ok.  Don't try it mate you'll only end up stripping it all out again 

[Colin G]

Thanks for the heads up, can only assume the spec has changed or the bolt is at the limit of it's tolerance. I'll have to check it witha vernier to see what the difference is - anybody got a spare oil cooler bolt they could let me have, just have visions of playing bolt ping pong with Vauxhall dealer

[dbug]

Had no probs with my local stealer getting correct bolts

[Colin G]

Got a vernier caliper on the bolts today. The new oil cooler bolt is 16.1mm, the sheared one is 15.8 and the coolant bridge bolt is the same circa 15.8.  Then checked the threads on all 3 bolts and measured 11mm give or take however, they were all 3 the same length so I've decided to take a chance so that I can get it all back together.  Just hope it doesn't got tits up with a leak.

Tomorrow is the big clean up flushing the radiator, cleaning as many of the pipes as possible before putting it all back together and doing the final flushing, hopefully taking the time to clear as much as possible should mean slightly less flushing.

[dbug]

It is a thread length/position difference mate & its only a small difference.  A coolant bridge bolt fitted to oil cooler banjo union will torque down OK but onto the thread run out and will not "squeeze" the seals - hence oil leakage ( not drips but will pi** out).  Why do you think that Vx gave them different part numbers (because they're different?) 

[Colin G]

Fair enough - just trying to progress the job however, I've taken onboard your advice and ordered two from different sources - let's hope they are a better spec than the one I bought from Vaux the other day.

[dbug]

Fair enough - just trying to progress the job however, I've taken onboard your advice and ordered two from different sources - let's hope they are a better spec than the one I bought from Vaux the other day.

Glad to hear that mate - I was in the same position trying to press on when I sheared one of the oil cooler bolts (using torque wrench set to correct torque).  Quick look at a new coolant bridge bolt I had in the garage, compared to oil cooler bolt, noticed slight difference but thought I'd get away with it.  Torqed it down.  On starting engine oil really pi**ed down back of block.

Strippe back down and the "V" was full of oil. Cleaned up, fitted new correct bolts and on start up no oil leaks.

[Colin G]

Okay so 99% there in terms of putting it back together but have a couple more questions which could well may me look a prat but hey ho, just want to do things right.

• I've put a load of traffic film remover into the coolant system having flushed as much as possible before putting it all back together.  My question is, should I start the car and get it upto normal temp to circulate and then drain down each time I flush?  Should I run the engine first with the radiator drain open with a hose shoved in the coolant tank? Should I run for a couple of days with the Forte Bio degreaser and then drain down again before putting in the correct anti freeze solution?
• When should I do the oil change, before I start the car or should I start it to get it upto temperature so that I get more of the old oil out of the system and then put the new oil and filter in?

Sorry if this is pretty basic stuff but as I say I just want to get it right 

Cheers

Col

[dbug]

1.  I used Forte Bio Degreaser in mine - ran it for a day, drained, toped back up with water, ran it for a couple of days, drained.  Water coming out was clear and clean.  Topped back up with 5 lits red antifreeze to give 50:50 mix.
2.  I would run the car "round the block" to get the oil hot before draining, then fit new filter and new oil.

HTH

[Colin G]

Thanks dbug, that's a great help.

[Colin G]

Well, you could have knocked me down with a feather, got it all back together, topped up the oil and turned the key - engine burst into life however (there's always a however ain't there), I could hear a "fizzing" sound coming from the top of the engine!!!  Checked under the car to see if there were any drips, checked the coolant tank to see if the level was dropping but sounded more like air.  Anyway, took the breather box off the top of the plenum and noticed the O ring was knackered where it goes into the plenum.  Have ordered a replacement from Steve at Omegaspares so hopefully this will sort the problem and I can get on with doing the full flushing and oil change regime.

Thanks for all the help so far, as ever you guys always come up trumps with answers.

Cheers Col

[Dr_X]

I've just done the cooler on my 3.2........I found  that a hoselock connector with a small bit of rad hose on it (motorbike rad hose) fitted into the main hose from the bottom of the coolant bottle...put the hose clip on and turn on the tap..............make sure the return hoses are directed out of the engine bay and that the rad drain screw is undone..worked really well....

[Colin G]

Oo'er, just noticed I've been promoted to Junior Member, good few years siince I was classed as a junior 

[dbug]

Congrats junior & glad you got it sorted mate 

[Colin G]

All sorted, did around 8 fills/flushes, 2 with Forte Bio Degreaser, done around 50 miles driving and all seems okay, levels not dropped, no drips from under car and no bad smells in the cabin so fingers crossed.  Now all I gotta do is get it through its MOT - be interesting to see if it fails as it only failed last one about 6 weeks ago on ball joint on the wishbone so had  Chrisgixer change them for me 

Thanks once again for all the help from you guys and all the guys who took the time to write the How Tos that I followed.

Col