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[ints]

Hello,

I´m newbie in this forum and old fan of omegas. Recently I bought 2002 Omega 2.2 petrol, good lookin and in good shape piece.
From this forum I discovered "pedal trick" diagnostics, did it, and discovered bunch of codes:

0170 Rich Exhaust C-30
0170 Lean Exhaust C-30

1405 Exhaust gas recirculation (EGR) valve position sensor - malfunction

0302 Cylinder 2 Misfire Detected B-22
0303 Cylinder 3 Misfire Detected B-22

0100 Mass or volume air flow circuit low input C-10

0110 Intake Air Temperature Circuit High Input C-12
0110 Intake Air Temperature Circuit Low Input C-12

0650 Malfunction Indicator (MI) Control Circuit High C-36
0650 Malfunction Indicator (MI) Control Circuit Open C-36

0460 Fuel Level Sensor Circuit High Input C-14
0460 Fuel Level Sensor Circuit Low Input C-14

Does anybody have idea what is causing this errors? I have noticed that sometimes when I switch the engine off, I get extra "pop" from exhaust, I think this indicates rich mixture like codes tell. Generally everything is OK, and I haven´t have any problems.

Personally I am worried about this 0650 code, after reading codes I noticed that the engine shaped light (Omega owners manual say:Exhaust emission light) wont come on, when I turn ignition on. I am affraid that maybe previos owner has somehow ruin it, to sell the car. I hope it is just the bulb, I going to remove the dash in the evening and check the bulb, if it is OK, I´m out of ideas.

When I bought the car, I had faulty air temperature sensor, computer showed outside temp +40C, really it was -5C. I just changed the sensor, could this sensor also give info to engine and mess up the system?

And pardon my English, it is not my native language.

Best regards,
Ints

[Kevin Wood]

Welcome to the forum.

Firstly, the outside air temperature sensor is separate to the engine systems so that won't have any bearing on the engine codes.

You have quite a few codes there. The problem with the pedal trick is that it doesn't tell you which codes are old codes that have been stored and which are indicating faults that are present.

If you can get the car to one of us with a Tech 2 or other code reader, get the codes cleared and see which codes come back it would put us in a better position. It would also be an opportunity to look at the live data and see if that points to anything. Put your location into your profice and someone local to you may be able to help.

That said, I would start by cleaning out the EGR valve, the breather system and throttle body, checking for any possible air leaks into the induction system and loose wiring connectors while I'm at it.

[ints]

Thank for the answer, I am from Estonia, other side of Europe. I have this China cable :http://www.dealextreme.com/p/opel-tech2-usb-car-diagnostic-cable-black-48445 , but I have´t  managed to get it working, sofware seems to be crap, I alwas get some errors, before diagnostics start, I have changed the ports etc. If someone have good soft I am happy to dowload it

I will check wires and air leaks.

On my Vectra B 2.0 eco I blanked EGR and got good results, is it good idea to blank it on 2.2 eco also?

[Kevin Wood]

OK. Estonia is a little far from our Tech2s.

How does the car drive?

If it's running OK I would say nothing to gain from blanking the EGR at this stage. Clean everything, as this is good measure anyway and the breather and throttle bodies do tend to clog up. Then I would try to get the codes cleared so you know which ones are "present". I'm wondering if it has previously been started with a load of sensors disconnected, for example.

[TheBoy]

As Kevin Wood says, try to get the codes cleared, and see what comes back.

Also, replace that missing bulb in the dash

[ints]

Little update:
Today I had time to work with the car. Firstly I removed dash and of course the engine light bulb was missing, placed the new one and as expect light started shining while running the engine.
Then I cleaned throttle body and intake manifold, which were very dirty from oil, one small channel in top off intake maifold was cloged.
Replaced spark plugs, 3 old plugs were clean as new (maybe even to clean) but on was reddish and this plug was GM original plug, other were ACDelco  . New ones are Bosch.
Then checked EGR, it was relatively clean, but I cleaned it after all.
Repalced air filter and cleaned intake sensors, all the connectors that I opened today refited with contact cleaner.
Next week I will visit diagnostics guy, plan to show him old spark plugs also.

This is really good forum , a lot of good materials and instruction that made my life very easy today 

[ints]

Today I got codes cleared.
Code that remains after 15mile run is 0170 Lean Exhaust, that came up also while the engine was idling and the diagnostic tool was connected.
Any ideas?
Maybe lambda? Or just the engine needs harder running to burn the exhaust clean?

[ndmv6]

is the exhaust blowing anywhere,?..had this code with mine...exhaust manifold was warped,also had a duff maf...

[ints]

hmm, actually when I serviced the car in garage and fired the engine few times I heard blowing noise for few secounds. I thought that I have cracked manifold. Looked under heat shield and no cracks, but few nuts were little loose, I thightened them and blowing noise disappeared, but maybe gasket is still damaged.

[ndmv6]

maybe worth checking to see if you have a genuine maf fitted...:@)

[ints]

Hi,
Checked the MAF, it is Siemens.
Today I got to play with diagnostic cable, and for the start it looked fine, no codes popped up, but after ideling and warming the engine about 10 minutes, the 0170 codes comes back. I noticed that when engine was cold, both O2 sensors showed lean, no fault codes, when I reved engine little, both showed rich. After warming, the fault code popped up. Both O2 sensors showed lean, after little rev, first was still lean, secound was rich.
Is this normal?

I copied live data:

Throttle Position,Idle
Engine Speed,750 RPM
Mass Air Flow Sensor,0.61 V
Mass Air Flow Sensor,8 kg/h
Coolant Temperature,1.89 V
Coolant Temperature,78 °C
Intake Air Temperature,2.00 V
Intake Air Temperature,21 °C
EGR Valve (Exhaust-Gas Recirculation),Inactive
EGR Position Command (Exhaust- Gas Recirculation),10 %
EGR Position Feedback (Exhaust Gas Recirculation),0.69 V
Fuel Tank Ventilation Valve,3 %
Knock Control,Inactive
B1S1 O2 Sensor Heater (Bank 1 Sensor 1),Active
B1S1 O2 Sensor (Bank 1 Sensor 1),39 mV
B1S1 Air/Fuel Ratio (Bank 1 Sensor 1),Lean
B1S2 O2 Sensor Heater (Bank 1 Sensor 2),Active
B1S2 O2 Sensor (Bank 1 Sensor 2),392 mV
B1S2 Air/Fuel Ratio (Bank 1 Sensor 2),Lean
O2 Sensor Loop,Open
B1 Short Term Fuel Trim (Bank 1),0 %
Engine Speed,750 RPM
Desired Idle Speed,750 RPM
Idle Speed Offset,Inactive
Ignition Dwell Angle,2.1 ms
Injector Time,2.0 ms
Ignition Spark Angle,8.2 °CA
B1 Knock Sensor Signal (Bank 1),0.5 V
Ignition Retard Knock Control Cyl. 1,0 °CA
Ignition Retard Knock Control Cyl. 2,0 °CA
Ignition Retard Knock Control Cyl. 3,0 °CA
Ignition Retard Knock Control Cyl. 4,0 °CA
Relative Engine Load,-13 %

Outside temp was +2C, ECU showed intake temp +21C, is this normal?

[ints]

And engine seems to vibrate more when it is warm, runs smoother when cold

[ints]

I think I found the source, it is bad injector gaskets or else in that area, spraied wd40 on first injector that can be easily reached and engine instantly changed rpm-s.
4 gaskets=32EUR I hope it is that easy.