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[robson]

There is no mention of lubrication in posts and maintainance section are the bearings prepacked? What new bolts should be used.and where is the best place to obtain bearing hub and bolts?

[kcl]

No need for lubrication, nor any bolts needed. Hub nut comes with new hub assembly.

SKF or FAG are known to be good brands for wheel bearings.

[Jimbob]

Tricky one at the mo..

All the known good pattern ones have recently started showing play immediately
Contitech USED to be the ones to get, good and cheap, but recent experience is bad
Gen VX are expensive....but so far perfect.

[feeutfo]

As Jimbob says. The only proven quality baring seems to be vx so far.

We have plans to try others, such as SKF, but need to have them fitted to know thier life span is acceptable.

Certainly conti direct ones are hopeless currently.

[robson]

Have ckecked play on my front wheels drivers side very slight top to bottom movement goes with brakes applied I assume this means bearing play. Had a go at getting dust cap off but stopped when I thought I might ruin it so get a rellacement first, The passenger side has no play but when the wheel is spun a slight knocking grinding noise is evident. The reason for all this is that I have an up and down whine from some where any ideas.

[Entwood]

Have ckecked play on my front wheels drivers side very slight top to bottom movement goes with brakes applied I assume this means bearing play. Had a go at getting dust cap off but stopped when I thought I might ruin it so get a rellacement first, The passenger side has no play but when the wheel is spun a slight knocking grinding noise is evident. The reason for all this is that I have an up and down whine from some where any ideas.

Sounds like a bearing breaking up to me .. if it makes a noise at hand rotation speeds .. just think what it will be like at 30 mph or higher !! Mine did exactly the same .. and after a run it was too hot to touch, and proressively got worse.

Genuine VX the way to go IMHO .. I changed to cheap ebay ones, and not-so-cheap non-vx ones .. all gave problems .. eventually went genuine VX and no problems .. except the wasted money on the previous  ones ... luckily I had done the work myself so no garage costs involved.

[robson]

 thanks Entwood I was going to do mine but the torque required on the bearing unit is making me think again.

[Entwood]

320 Nm ... I did the whole job and tightened that to the max of my torque wrench .. 280 Nm , then put the whole lot back together MINUS the dustcap and the centre boss of the wheel .. drove to loacl garage and for a couple of quid in the charity box they torqued it up properly ... didn't need to move the car   Drove home and then finished the job properly... 

I admit I had spoken to them first and arranged it .. went a smooth as silk

[robson]

I must admit that I had thought of that so gives me some confidence in going ahead

[feeutfo]

Another option, Halfords do a 300nm torque wrench for £70. The extra 20nm is easily gauged on the dial.

[GastronomicKleptomaniac]

Another option, Halfords do a 300nm torque wrench for £70. The extra 20nm is easily gauged on the dial.

Or when you feel it in your left knacker

[Elite Pete]

Another option, Halfords do a 300nm torque wrench for £70. The extra 20nm is easily gauged on the dial.

Or when you feel it in your left knacker

Two grunts and a fart and its tight enough

[kcl]

320 is very tight and it is quite difficult to get it too tight. The idea is to have it so toght that it will never come loose. This type of bearings you do not adjust by tightening so nothing to worry, just plain as tight as you can get will work as a rule of thumb. All I have ever put in have been SKF and all three have worked a treat. As with rears, I only trust SKF and FAG