Print

Please login or register.
1 Hour 1 Day 1 Week 1 Month Forever
Login with username, password and session length

[Webby the Bear]

Ok, few things I need to note....Firstly I'm going to own up. I didn't follow the ''Rear brake service'' guide exactly. 

I let off the handbrake and chocked the front wheels as it said. Jacked the car up, stuck it on axel stands and away I went...

I am fully aware I should have serviced the handbrake and the handbrake shoes etc but I'm going to be honest I didn't fully understand the guide hence why I didn't do it...that's my stupidity though; nothing against the guide.

I was also thinking if I went to a garage what would they do? Seriously??? Discs and pads......... would they do the shoes??? Comments welcome!!!!!!!!

ANYHOOOO...

I found the whole job real easy.

Disc hex key wasn't stripped  and came off with a 30 Torx eeeeasily.

Caliper 'pins' banged out real easy with a centre punch. Pads then also came out easily with a bit of persuasion from the pliers. The only issue was AGAIN the caliper bolts holding it to the hub. God I had to proper give it some stick (may I suggest holding the wrench to the bolt and hitting it with the bit between the hammer head and rubber handle... just seems to give better force 

Anyway, I then rotated the disc so that the ''drilled hole'' was Top Dead Centre'' (TDC) and the disc came straight off.

Sooooo I ''pretended ''  that I was replacing the pads and discs and refittment was reverse of removal.

Pics with notes.......

This is a pic once I was putting it all back together. Note the brake fluid and oil cannisters holding the caliper up... didn't have bungy chords unfortunately. However this held it up well. The brake spreader was fantastic again. Although the pipe going to the caliper was so rigid (unlike the front brake hose) I obviously couldn't put vise grips on it to stop the flow going back to the Master Cylinder when I pushed the pistons back. I also used a pocket screwdriver to get a bit of lithium grease under the piston boot therfore making sure the piston went back smoothly without crinkling the boot 


The disc.... it's very rusty but obviously the car hasn't been driven in a long time. Should this be replaced or would it be ok if the car was used regularly again? The disc itself is 1cm thick. Is this good or bad i.e. should be replaced anyway???


A nice shot showing how much of a grease monkey I've become.... and how much my neighbours are thinking ''We live next door to Onzlo'' 


Now the oddest thing today  I put back the pads, the securing bolts and the metal retaining clip. But it just doesn't look right. Is the clip on wrong? The securing bolts are straight in although they look wonky. Any ideas?

[RobG]

Look OK

[Webby the Bear]

Cheers Rob. but do you not agree the pins dont look parellel? odd! lol

[RobG]

Cheers Rob. but do you not agree the pins dont look parellel? odd! lol

Optical illusion perchance If pins are straight and through the holes not a lot you can do really Steve

[SteveAvfc.]

Ok, few things I need to note....Firstly I'm going to own up. I didn't follow the ''Rear brake service'' guide exactly. 

I let off the handbrake and chocked the front wheels as it said. Jacked the car up, stuck it on axel stands and away I went...

I am fully aware I should have serviced the handbrake and the handbrake shoes etc but I'm going to be honest I didn't fully understand the guide hence why I didn't do it...that's my stupidity though; nothing against the guide.

I was also thinking if I went to a garage what would they do? Seriously??? Discs and pads......... would they do the shoes??? Comments welcome!!!!!!!!

ANYHOOOO...

I found the whole job real easy.

Disc hex key wasn't stripped  and came off with a 30 Torx eeeeasily.

Caliper 'pins' banged out real easy with a centre punch. Pads then also came out easily with a bit of persuasion from the pliers. The only issue was AGAIN the caliper bolts holding it to the hub. God I had to proper give it some stick (may I suggest holding the wrench to the bolt and hitting it with the bit between the hammer head and rubber handle... just seems to give better force 

Anyway, I then rotated the disc so that the ''drilled hole'' was Top Dead Centre'' (TDC) and the disc came straight off.

Sooooo I ''pretended ''  that I was replacing the pads and discs and refittment was reverse of removal.

Pics with notes.......

This is a pic once I was putting it all back together. Note the brake fluid and oil cannisters holding the caliper up... didn't have bungy chords unfortunately. However this held it up well. The brake spreader was fantastic again. Although the pipe going to the caliper was so rigid (unlike the front brake hose) I obviously couldn't put vise grips on it to stop the flow going back to the Master Cylinder when I pushed the pistons back. I also used a pocket screwdriver to get a bit of lithium grease under the piston boot therfore making sure the piston went back smoothly without crinkling the boot 


The disc.... it's very rusty but obviously the car hasn't been driven in a long time. Should this be replaced or would it be ok if the car was used regularly again? The disc itself is 1cm thick. Is this good or bad i.e. should be replaced anyway???


A nice shot showing how much of a grease monkey I've become.... and how much my neighbours are thinking ''We live next door to Onzlo'' 


Now the oddest thing today  I put back the pads, the securing bolts and the metal retaining clip. But it just doesn't look right. Is the clip on wrong? The securing bolts are straight in although they look wonky. Any ideas?

Love the quote about Onzlo. My neighbours must think these Omegas are crap the amount of times the bonnet or the car its self has been up.

[omega3000]

My neighbours must think these Omegas are crap the amount of times the bonnet or the car its self has been up.

Thats what i was thinking a few weeks back 

Nice fishing box there , comfort is important  Those cross shape metal things that hook onto the back of the pads looked like one of mine , very rusty and one side had rusted away completely causing a tappety tap rubbing on the disc  replaced them with new ones in a kit with pins inc for about £8 

[bored bigyin54]

nice to see the old bus steve

[Kevin Wood]

when I pushed the pistons back. I also used a pocket screwdriver to get a bit of lithium grease under the piston boot therfore making sure the piston went back smoothly without crinkling the boot 

I wouldn't do that in future. The pistons should retract easily anyway, and you run the risk of contaminating the seals using grease. As a rule, if it's going to come in to contact with brake system seals, use brake fluid only.

[Lazydocker]

Agreed. Also, the rubber hose for the rear brakes is further along. If you follow the brake pipe you'll find it more inboard. Also, check that the metal pipes are clear of the driveshafts when reassembled

[henryd]

Those discs will clean up with use,they don't look scored or owt,you were lucky to get the discs off without having to back off the star adjuster's for the handbrake,normally there is a corrosion lip on the inside which prevents the disc/drum coming off over the shoes

[dbug]

Check disks not worn below minimum thickness

Earlier disks 286 dia x 12 mm thick (solid disks) - minimum thickness 10mm
Later disks 286 dia x 20mm thick (vented discs) - minimum thickness 18mm

HTH

[Webby the Bear]

Thanks for all your feedback chaps.

I'll remember not to grease the piston boot in future... although only reason I did it was cos of a video I'd seen if not grease perhaps silicone paste??? or just nothing as you say 

I'm going to just double check I got those securing pins in the right hole 

As for the Onzlo thing  it's terrible cos at the mo the lawn is quite unkempt so we're defo not keeping up with the Jones's. But hey what you gonna do when there's not enough time in the day 

I also forgot to mention about the amount of crap I had to scrape and chisel from inside the caliper. This stuff was baked on. It resembled ash. but hey got there in the end.

As mentioned I would like to service the shoes but struggling a bit to understand the guide so for now I think I will move straight on to that timing belt. 

So that rigid pipe going to the piston is that not for brake fluid? i did look for other pipes but it looked like the only one going to the caliper  so what's the rigid pipe for then?

cheers all.

[omega3000]

Thanks for all your feedback chaps.

I'll remember not to grease the piston boot in future... although only reason I did it was cos of a video I'd seen if not grease perhaps silicone paste??? or just nothing as you say 

I'm going to just double check I got those securing pins in the right hole 

As for the Onzlo thing  it's terrible cos at the mo the lawn is quite unkempt so we're defo not keeping up with the Jones's. But hey what you gonna do when there's not enough time in the day 

I also forgot to mention about the amount of crap I had to scrape and chisel from inside the caliper. This stuff was baked on. It resembled ash. but hey got there in the end.

As mentioned I would like to service the shoes but struggling a bit to understand the guide so for now I think I will move straight on to that timing belt. 

So that rigid pipe going to the piston is that not for brake fluid? i did look for other pipes but it looked like the only one going to the caliper  so what's the rigid pipe for then?

cheers all.

Brake dust 

Ralf will soon be up and running with full MOT 

[Webby the Bear]

lol i doubt it steve, ralf aint gettin any money spent on him 

i only brought him to practise the jobs on 

however, if i can sort the engine ''dugga dugga'' issue for nowt then i'll probably run him for a while

[bored bigyin54]

if you can sort it it was a good engine until the cam gaskets were done