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[geoffr70]

Hi peeps. This is a how to on replacing your handbrake cable. This was done on my MV6 and Elite (both v6 saloons). I believe the saloon is the same as the estate for the purposes of changing h/b cable, not sure about different engine sizes though. The job itself is straightforward, but awkward for access. If you happen to be replacing the exhaust centre sections (v6), it will be a good time to replace the h/b cable as you will have more access.

I changed mine as it was obviously stretched, and I like a tight handbrake.

Assuming you don't have a pit or four post lift, use of a creeper will be an advantage, or strong neck muscles. You will be right under the car, so as always, check and double check the stability. I've been under some heavy loads, but I wouldn't fancy an Omega sitting on top of me.

I used a pattern part from eBay, which due to the nature of the part, I think will be fine.

Here is a picture of what you'll be fitting. This is the old one though. At first glance, the cable looks the same length on each side, but take note, they are not:



Tools I used:

Jack, axle stands, wheel chocks, socket set (only 10mm and 13mm deep socket required), a selection of extension and wobbler bars will come in a treat, pliers, flathead screwdriver, hammer, maybe penetrating oil and a wire brush.

Instructions in red, explanatory notes and other stuff in black. To make it easy to refer to when doing job after having read this already.

The job:

1. Jack and support the car high enough on axle stands to slide under the rear end, approximately half way down. Removing rear road wheels allows easier access. I only raised the rear, but you could do the whole car to make it easier if you want. If you do, make sure it's level (so it doesn't roll) as you won't be able to chock the front wheels. If you don't, chock the front wheels well, as once the rear wheels are off the ground, your h/b is useless, but will be off anyway. You could wedge a piece of wood against the seat and brake pedal, every little helps.

2. Release handbrake, and push down to fully off position.

3. Using a pair of pliers, remove the handbrake cable tensioning spring on each side of car. This is located on the underside at the rear of the disc/disc backing plate. It simply unhooks on each side.

4. Unhook the end of the handbrake cable that hooks onto the lever that sticks out of the drum. This might be corroded on slightly. If it is, use some penetrating oil or WD40, a wire brush and pliers to wriggle it off.

Picture of the handbrake cable tensioning spring, and end of cable:

.

[geoffr70]

5. Remove the nuts that hold on the exhaust heat shields (14 IIRC, 10mm). There are two rear shields and two centre ones. Remove heat shields. I found it easier to leave the two rear smaller ones resting on exhaust (pain to get round exhaust). The centre larger ones can be slid out to the side. The cable(s) fit under here.

Here are some pictures showing the nuts on the exhaust heat shields, and you can just see the cable on the second picture:





6. Undo the nut (13mm) from the compensator bar. Use of a deep socket will be good here due to the thread from the main h/b cable. Take note of how far the nut is on, so on refitting the new one, it can be tightened the same distance to give you a guide to work off for adjusting handbrake.  This is where a selection of socket extensions and wobbler bars will come in handy, as there is little clearance around prop shaft to get a turn on a ratchet. My combination was about 2-3 feet long, and saves lots of small turns on a ratchet to remove.

7. On both sides, remove cable from metal bracket (picture below). It might be caked up with crud and corrosion, As it's the old cable simply bend it down and whack it with a hammer and it'll come straight out!



8. Trace the cable from the wheel ends, and remove cable from various brackets attached to the cars underside. You will get an idea of where these are by looking at your new cable. But below are some pictures of them. If it is tight, lever it open with a screwdriver. Once the new cable is in you can simply tap with a hammer to retain it.





9. Up near the compensator bar at the top of the prop shaft tunnel, there are two square shaped brackets that the cable clips into (just the sheathed cable - no plastic bits or sleeves. Remove the cable from the brackets by pushing inwards towards centre of car.

10. Remove handbrake cable from the car. I find it easier to pull it up towards the front of the car. Work it around the chassis legs and exhaust etc. Remember the route if you can, the clips and brackets will help you remember though. There aren't many places to place an axle stand once jacked on the rear. If you have placed an axle stand on the rear chassis leg, you might have to jack the car an inch or two to increase the gap so that the handbrake cable and metal thing can pass through. Again check stability.

Layout cable on ground and keep it in the same orientation as it was on the car. Remember the two sides are slightly different lengths. Compare against your new cable and possibly mark the compensator bar on the new cable so you don't forget the orientation when twisting and routing it on refitting, (it's a pain doing it once, I wouldn't want to take it off and re-route!).

11. Refit, as removal, but in reverse. Points to note on this: I found it easier to fit compensator bar with a few turns of nut to keep it in place. Route the new cable and be happy it's in the right place before fitting plastic clips into brackets etc. (don't forget the two small square shaped brackets in the prop shaft tunnel). There are two sleeves on the cable that should be sighted where it passes between the body and the chassis legs, to reduce chafing probably.

Once the new cable is on you can pop all clips/brackets on etc, and tighten the nut on the compensator bar to the original length.

Leave the exhaust heat shields off as you might still need to adjust the nut either way, depending on whether or not you're servicing the handbrake/replacing shoes, or at the very least adjusting the star adjusters to make it nice and tight. Once you're happy replace of course. Check the position of the handbrake lever in conjunction with adjusting compensator bar and star adjusters, and adjust according to personal preference (I like it quite low). The nut on the compensator bar can actually be reached without taking the heatshields off though, but you'll need to know where it is, have a torch probably, and a long extension.

Handbrake servicing guide:

http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/index.php?topic=90580.0

Remember when lowering car, the handbrake is useless until your rear wheels are on the ground and taking weight, wouldn't want to get crushed now!

Job done.