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[Webby the Bear]

One thing I haven't done yet is drain the coolant. gotta do this as i am going to take the water pump off and inspect.

what would happen if the coolant tap wasn't opened to drain the water first then took the water pump off?.... other than more water everywhere  any other problems you could cause by doing that 

 

[Kevin Wood]

You'll have a torrent of water out of the water pump hole.

But.. no damage done, and you'll have a torrent of water out of the water pump hole anyway, because most of the water in the block won't drain out through the radiator.

[Webby the Bear]

You'll have a torrent of water out of the water pump hole.

But.. no damage done, and you'll have a torrent of water out of the water pump hole anyway, because most of the water in the block won't drain out through the radiator.

That's what i thought. cheers kev.

well i'm hopefully going to do some tonight. really want to get it so tomorrow is all about the reassembly.

i can really see myself doing this for a living. what a rewarding job!

[JamesV6CDX]

You'll have a torrent of water out of the water pump hole.

But.. no damage done, and you'll have a torrent of water out of the water pump hole anyway, because most of the water in the block won't drain out through the radiator.

That's what i thought. cheers kev.

well i'm hopefully going to do some tonight. really want to get it so tomorrow is all about the reassembly.

i can really see myself doing this for a living. what a rewarding job!

Wait until you're driving 200 miles home from a customer after spending 8 hours lying on your back getting covered in $hit and scraping your knuckles and stinking of oil every day for a while.. 

[Webby the Bear]

You'll have a torrent of water out of the water pump hole.

But.. no damage done, and you'll have a torrent of water out of the water pump hole anyway, because most of the water in the block won't drain out through the radiator.

That's what i thought. cheers kev.

well i'm hopefully going to do some tonight. really want to get it so tomorrow is all about the reassembly.

i can really see myself doing this for a living. what a rewarding job!

Wait until you're driving 200 miles home from a customer after spending 8 hours lying on your back getting covered in $hit and scraping your knuckles and stinking of oil every day for a while.. 

Apart from the driving far bit that sounds awesome 

on a serious note james, what would you say are the highs and lows of being a professional spanner twirler?

[JamesV6CDX]

You'll have a torrent of water out of the water pump hole.

But.. no damage done, and you'll have a torrent of water out of the water pump hole anyway, because most of the water in the block won't drain out through the radiator.

That's what i thought. cheers kev.

well i'm hopefully going to do some tonight. really want to get it so tomorrow is all about the reassembly.

i can really see myself doing this for a living. what a rewarding job!

Wait until you're driving 200 miles home from a customer after spending 8 hours lying on your back getting covered in $hit and scraping your knuckles and stinking of oil every day for a while.. 

Apart from the driving far bit that sounds awesome 

on a serious note james, what would you say are the highs and lows of being a professional spanner twirler?

Well for starters, I am not a professional mechanic by any stretch. I'm an enthusiast, who has become proficient in a number of jobs, and hence offer it as a service in my spare time...

For me, the highs:

 - Sense of achievement when you fix something or work out a problem
 - Pride in my work - I feel really great knowing I've done something properly and not cut corners
 - Reputation - I enjoy the reputation I generally get as a result of the above
 - If solo - all the benefits of being your own boss
 - getting to meet great people, making new friends, being appreciated
 - the money is reasonable

The lows

 - some very early starts, very long days
 - if at a customer site, and only outdoor facilities, it can be miserable in the winter
 - your own car constantly taking a hammering. My MV6 always has a bootload of tools and is thrashed around the UK. Remember you must keep your own car well serviced, even if you can't be bothered - as without it you're stuffed
- Unforseen problems. For example, if something breaks and you don't have a replacement
- IF working away, facilities, EG, jobs under car tricky if only a gravel surface is available
- Although very few and far between, there will always be the odd unreasonable customer

[Webby the Bear]

I think that's summed it up really well. especially the working on someone's drive in the cold 

[The Red Baron]

i was a mechanic for......dare i say it...citroen
i packed that up in 92 to go a different direction, brewery electrical contract work, only over the past couple of years have i been back on cars, only for me though tbh, after 20 years out of it, boy its hard work now, mind i think age has something to do with that. i dont miss it.

[Rods2]

"Throwing a rod" is when a con rod (the bit between the piston and crank) makes a bid for freedom from the confines of the piston & crank, usually through the side of the engine. Tends to be fatal for the engine on account of the gaping hole and shrapnel

Bending a valve won't eject bits of engine from the engine.. just.. bend things internally.

Damn, beaten to it

Reminds me of an old Farmer, looking for somebody to drive his tractor. A young man turned up for an interview with all of the necessary qualifications. At the end of the interview , the farmer said, sorry you haven't got the job.

The young man said, why not?

The old farmer said, well it is like this: I have a very old tractor with a clapped out engine and a very beautiful young wife.



And I don't want a rod thrown in either of them. 

[The Red Baron]

  ^^ very good.

[twiglet]

^^ very good.

+1 

[Webby the Bear]

Right then chaps, everything is going great. sorted the cam timing with belt off and locked the cams, done water pump, removed backing plate etc etc. and it's all back together. however. little bit of a problem....just about to replace the cambelt and looked and it has no markings. there is the lettering still there with ''DO NOT CRIMP'' and the other lettering further along with a bar code and ''G'' at the end of it but no double marking for the crank and no single markings for the cams.

now i know the bar code with ''G'' should go over cams 1/2 but what do i do about the no markings?

Am i done for with regards to putting the old belt back or are there some trucks of the trade?

cheers dudes

[Webby the Bear]

sorry what i should have added was there are two seperate markings but they look like they were drawn on in tippex or something 

[Lazydocker]

The markings aren't essential, just there to aid fitting (because you can see if you have it in the right places)

[omega3000]

Dont go turning that ingnition key till you have turned the crank manually a few times with the plugs out to avoid bending ralfs valves