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[Bojan]

Hello!

For some time now, I am under impression that my driver side exhaust manifold is broken a bit, as I'm getting this distincive 'clackering' sound under acceleration (as if one cylinder is a lot louder than others). I was preparing to get thins done (been quoted 200€ just for labor, as the engine has to come out). 

But, today, while waiting on the traffic light, I've notticed that when I rev the engine while standing, I don't get that 'clackering' sound, just healty engine sound.

So, I get the clacker only while accelerating. When reving it while stationary, it sounds normal.

Why is this so?

Thanks.

[Manual Elite V6]

When driving the engine will be under more load, hence any blowing will be more noticeable while driving!

[amba]

I recentley replaced mine and in all fairness it wasn,t such a bad job.

I had lots of other things I wanted to deal with while the top section was stripped down, oil cooler/thermostat etc so made the extra work seem worth the effort.

Give yourself plenty of time and work methodically and you should be able to do it quite comfortably in a day.Worth while getting new manifold studs and copper nut along with new down pipe seal,coolant transfer pipe seal,secondary air pipe seals and coolant bridge dowty washers.Its a bit fiddly getting at the 2 x T10 bolts holding the coolant transfer pipe at the back of the engine,I found it easier to get several old foam cushions on the front slam panel and kneel on them that way you can get better access to the rar of the engine.Not great on the back muscles but quite doable although easier still with oil cooler pipes moved slightly.

Cost in genuine VX parts was around £35.00 so big big saving on your garage quote and you will get the satisfaction that not only have you done it yourself but it has been done correctly ,unlike most garages 

[Bojan]

Just to update this with one observation -> I was blanking off the ERG valve few days ago, and noticed that 2 out of 3 bolts (that bolt to intake plenum) are not holding (the threads are destroyed) -> this seems to be causing the rattle.
Now, ERG assembly (valve and cast iron pipe) are removed, and copper pipe is blocked off (shoved an steel rod segment into it, and placed several layers of heat-resistant tape over it    ). This caused the rattle to reduce, and it seems that it's coming from a different place.

I will be removing the copper pipe completely soon, replacing it with end cap fitting, and I hope that this might cure the rattle problem completely.

PS. ERG valve is still plugged in, and placed aside