Al - when I replaced oil cooler i fitted new washers (supplied by Vx) to banjo unions, new dowty type washers (Vx) to coolant bridge as well as new rubber o-rings (Vx) that sit between oil cooler and bottom of plate and seal when 30mm nuts tightened.
I am also aware that the coolant bridge bolts are slightly different to the oil cooler bolts (having fell for this on the Estate after I sheared one of the oil cooler bolts whilst retorquing). The oil cooler pipes were removed at the lower end (19mm crowsfoot) so there was no risk of straining the pipes. Oil cooler & crank sensor removed to gain access.
I did not replace the two oil cooler bolts - re-used originals. With hindsight I feel I should have as it is possible one of these may have weakened and stetched ? All bolts/nuts were torqued to correct torque.
It would be prudent to replace both these bolts together with new washers. HTH 
If a coolant bridge bolt is fitted to the oil cooler you won't get a slight leak it actually pours out, a large pool forming in seconds!!
So the oil cooler bolts are slighlty smaller in length then 
No the difference is in the amount of thread - a coolant bridge bolt if fitted to oil cooler torques up before clamping the banjo and sealing washers.
Al - the correct bolts were fitted to both oil cooler and coolant bridge by me - fact! However from my experience on the Elite Estate I suspect these bolts may weaken and stretch when reused (at best or at worst shear as I found out on the Estate. As I was in a rush I fitted the only new bolt I had which turned out to be a Coolant bridge bolt from the part no to the Estate. Oil really pi**ed out! Fitted 2 new oil cooler bolts from Vx - no leaks). Sure if you fit new correct oil cooler bolts + new sealing washers from Vx and torque correctly result will be no oil leak!
In answer to your other question, suspect oil leak started after I fitted new oil cooler (but not immediately). I suspected passenger side cam cover, but as oil loss was low (rarely needed topping up) tended to ignore it. HTH