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[Manual Elite V6]

I have read that the engine needs to be raised to change the passenger side exhaust manifold gasket, my question is does it have to be raised to replace the drivers side as mine is blowing, there seems to be a lot more room on the drivers side, I know that I need to remove the coolant transfer pipe, would just like to know before I get round to doing the job so I know what is involved and so that I am prepared.

Thanks.

[amba]

Did mine a few weeks back...drivers side.

Remove all the inlet /plenum and fuel rails so you can get access to the rear fixings for coolant transfer pipe.Just unbolting lots of bits and then replacing.

Get new studs and copper washers for manifold but non of mine snapped so replaced them all anyway.Only use a proper 3 layer metal manifold gasket and also remember you will require small seals for SAI pipes to manifold....gasket for manifold to downpipe...seal for coolant transfer pipe ..and to gain access to back of block for coolant pipe you will need to remove coolant bridge so expect 4 new dowty washers.

Not a bad job really and I comfortably did it inside a day not rushing and several longish breaks.

Best of luck and the car sounds so much better with it not blowing .

[Manual Elite V6]

Thanks for your help, I'm already prepared for that just wanted to make sure, should hopefully get it done in around 3 hours, I may leave it till I do the clutch and do it all at once while the downpipes are disconnected.

[amba]

And the shopping list
                                               Part no.         
Exhaust downpipe nuts M10 x 2  90570845     
Manifold gasket                      24416110   
Manifold nuts x 7                    11082413   
Coolant pipe O-ring                 9128362           
Front pipe gasket                   90499289           
Secondary Air Injection gaskets x 2   90467427   Re: Drivers side exhaust manifold removal V6
Reply #8 - 02. Apr 2011 at 21:50   The notes I used, although I didn't write them:

By MarkDTM

My approach to this job is.

Drain the coolant

Jack the car up and remove the two front pipe to manifold nuts (should be easy on yours as it uses the later helicoiled nuts) and remove the bolt that secures the front pipe to the gearbox bracket. Pop the front pipe of the manifold studs (takes a bit of wiggling and sometimes requires a foot on the centre section silencer to get it off) and then tie the front pipe to the gearbox to give it some support before putting the car back on the floor.

Strip the inlet manifolds off and place to one side, no need to remove the lower manifold for this job (which saves th pain or removing 12 thread locked bolts!).

Now disconnect the pipes to the heater matrix assembly (fast fit connectors, press the tabs and slide the collar back, twist the connectors a few time to free them off), disconnect the vaccum pipe that goes to the bypass valve  and disconnect the pipes that attach to the coolant bridge and main coolant pipe. Now remove the bypass valve and all its associated pipe work.

This gives a nice amount of space to work in.

Removal of the header tank (again easy)  gives more room to work in.

Disconnect the main radiator to coolant pipe hose at the front left of the engine and disconnect the air injection rubber coupling on the left side of the engine.

Remove the bolt on the 1-3-5 bank lifting eye that secures the coolant pipe to the engine and then remove the lifting eye (single bolt again)

Now, using a short extension on a ratchet, remove the two torx bolts (think there e12 but could be wrong) that secure the coolant pipe to the back of the block, for the right hand one you might have to ease the oil cooler pipes out the way a little.

The coolant pipe should now come out (honestly, it does, takes a bit of manouvering!).

Now spray all the heatshield bolts with penetrating fluid and go and have a cuppa.

Now remove the heat shields starting with the upper one, then the air injection pipe and finally the lower one remembering that there is a securing bolt right at the rear of the manifold to the right of the downpipe connection.

Now pop the manifold off, again shouldn't be an issue given the age of the engine as again it has the later studs.

Clean the head face well and check the manifold carefully for cracks (it seems to be only the Police that manage to crack them from my experience) before cleaning the face of it and checking its flat, I use a belt sander to flatten them off a bit (makes cleaning easier to). I also use a tap and die to clean all the threads up.

Then re-assembly is reverse of removal, I use a small wipe of silicon (cam cover sealant or similar) on the rubber O ring for the coolant pipe just to hold it safely in place when re-fitting.

You also want to clean the rear block mating surface before re-fitting the pipe.... 

Hope this extra info helps .

         

[Manual Elite V6]

Thanks again, you have made finding my list much easier