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[freecall666]

batterys have a chip inside for charging and over load power they fail and battery will not charge, its a little 6-8 pin chip in the battery, can change them with another one from an know battery cell dead one and will work again. have had to doit to a lot of old laptops were the batterys have faults and they dont make them any more, can buy the cell's on bay,  but not the chips.

The chip is not that intelligent

The cells are reported fine by the chip, thus Windows sees it as a healthy, if somewhat flat.


For future reference, you must never, ever, ever replace any less that the entire compliment of cells in a Li-ION battery pack. Ever. Thats approaching the same league as the daft bint jouring petrol near her gas hob 

In fact, changing all cells in a Li-ION pack needs to be done with extreme caution, and isn't really cost effective to DIYers, due to shear number of cells needed to get matched ones.

they are not intelligent just control the volts in and out and another chip states the volts for the laptop as a signal in the volts out, and a full set of the old type (like aa) but bigger 5.5volt batterys are 6 in set for £12. (and dont mix types orange or red type) you just need a stamp set to make them fix together.  yes you are right that you should change all of them at same time no matter the state the other cells are.
but if the charging side of the chip/s is gone it will say its charging even when it is not. have fixed over 20 batterys for kids laptops with no problems with any of my electrical repairs for over 20 years.

[TheBoy]

Li-ION are normally 3.5 - 3.7v, not 5.5, and normally 3 in series to make approx 10.8v in a pack (higher capcity ones have 2 or more cells in parallel, then put in series with 2 other similarly paralleled batteries, thus often stated as 3/6/9 cell batteries).  Obviously other end voltages are available, eg 4 sets (4/8/12 cell packs) in series for 14v packs.

The charging circuits are on the systemboard, normally, not on the pack. The baattery pack and the systemboard normally chat over a serial connection.

[freecall666]

Li-ION are normally 3.5 - 3.7v, not 5.5, and normally 3 in series to make approx 10.8v in a pack (higher capcity ones have 2 or more cells in parallel, then put in series with 2 other similarly paralleled batteries, thus often stated as 3/6/9 cell batteries).  Obviously other end voltages are available, eg 4 sets (4/8/12 cell packs) in series for 14v packs.

The charging circuits are on the systemboard, normally, not on the pack. The baattery pack and the systemboard normally chat over a serial connection.

this is the one your on about battery im not http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/4x-18650-ULTRAFIRE-Li-ion-3000mAh-3-7V-Rechargeable-Battery-Solder-Tab-H274-/230834966576?pt=UK_ConsumerElectronics_Batteries_SM&hash=item35bed61030. and a laptop or navman and meany others the charging control is on the battery, the battery your on about i have never seen in a laptops, afew house alarm memory backups but never a laptop.
i get gp1865l lilon batterys,
also my friend who is here says them batterys are in solar lights he as seen come in for repair.

[TheBoy]

Li-ION are normally 3.5 - 3.7v, not 5.5, and normally 3 in series to make approx 10.8v in a pack (higher capcity ones have 2 or more cells in parallel, then put in series with 2 other similarly paralleled batteries, thus often stated as 3/6/9 cell batteries).  Obviously other end voltages are available, eg 4 sets (4/8/12 cell packs) in series for 14v packs.

The charging circuits are on the systemboard, normally, not on the pack. The baattery pack and the systemboard normally chat over a serial connection.

this is the one your on about battery im not http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/4x-18650-ULTRAFIRE-Li-ion-3000mAh-3-7V-Rechargeable-Battery-Solder-Tab-H274-/230834966576?pt=UK_ConsumerElectronics_Batteries_SM&hash=item35bed61030. and a laptop or navman and meany others the charging control is on the battery, the battery your on about i have never seen in a laptops, afew house alarm memory backups but never a laptop.

Blimey, you must be pissing around with some old stuff then

[freecall666]

Li-ION are normally 3.5 - 3.7v, not 5.5, and normally 3 in series to make approx 10.8v in a pack (higher capcity ones have 2 or more cells in parallel, then put in series with 2 other similarly paralleled batteries, thus often stated as 3/6/9 cell batteries).  Obviously other end voltages are available, eg 4 sets (4/8/12 cell packs) in series for 14v packs.

The charging circuits are on the systemboard, normally, not on the pack. The baattery pack and the systemboard normally chat over a serial connection.

this is the one your on about battery im not http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/4x-18650-ULTRAFIRE-Li-ion-3000mAh-3-7V-Rechargeable-Battery-Solder-Tab-H274-/230834966576?pt=UK_ConsumerElectronics_Batteries_SM&hash=item35bed61030. and a laptop or navman and meany others the charging control is on the battery, the battery your on about i have never seen in a laptops, afew house alarm memory backups but never a laptop.

Blimey, you must be pissing around with some old stuff then

these are old batterys but new type like in my laptop are flat type, and is still the same principle,, and if your charging circuit is in your laptop then you dont need new battery you need a new laptop, the old type laptops that used to take first type of re-chargeabe batterys think were on windows 3.1. they did not have a charging board in the battery as they just sloted them in like a remote. all newer batterys have them in to stop them over heating and some cases catching fire.

[TheBoy]

Li-ION are normally 3.5 - 3.7v, not 5.5, and normally 3 in series to make approx 10.8v in a pack (higher capcity ones have 2 or more cells in parallel, then put in series with 2 other similarly paralleled batteries, thus often stated as 3/6/9 cell batteries).  Obviously other end voltages are available, eg 4 sets (4/8/12 cell packs) in series for 14v packs.

The charging circuits are on the systemboard, normally, not on the pack. The baattery pack and the systemboard normally chat over a serial connection.

this is the one your on about battery im not http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/4x-18650-ULTRAFIRE-Li-ion-3000mAh-3-7V-Rechargeable-Battery-Solder-Tab-H274-/230834966576?pt=UK_ConsumerElectronics_Batteries_SM&hash=item35bed61030. and a laptop or navman and meany others the charging control is on the battery, the battery your on about i have never seen in a laptops, afew house alarm memory backups but never a laptop.

Blimey, you must be pissing around with some old stuff then

these are old batterys but new type like in my laptop are flat type, and is still the same principle,, and if your charging circuit is in your laptop then you dont need new battery you need a new laptop, the old type laptops that used to take first type of re-chargeabe batterys think were on windows 3.1. they did not have a charging board in the battery as they just sloted them in like a remote. all newer batterys have them in to stop them over heating and some cases catching fire.

First 'laptop' I had wouldn't run Windows 3.1 . Actually, it wouldn't run Windows 3.0. Not sure if it could run Windows 2 TBH.


In this case, its possible its a sysemboard fault, hence the initial query. But battery is a lot cheaper. A lot, lot cheaper. As the battery is reporting its OK, but not charging, I'm hoping its the remote switch-on functionality thats not working, and hopefully, the battery side of that. I had let it go very, very flat, and left it in that state, so its possible that its corrupted the on-battery configuration, which writes off the battery unless you have the specialist equipment to get the config back on.

I think we're in the realms of 66/33 in the favour of battery. We shall see.

[Kevin Wood]

Can you not charge the battery on the bench then see if it has any usable life in the machine?

Every machine I've seen has a switching reg on the MB to charge the battery and the chip in the battery is just memory.

[freecall666]

Li-ION are normally 3.5 - 3.7v, not 5.5, and normally 3 in series to make approx 10.8v in a pack (higher capcity ones have 2 or more cells in parallel, then put in series with 2 other similarly paralleled batteries, thus often stated as 3/6/9 cell batteries).  Obviously other end voltages are available, eg 4 sets (4/8/12 cell packs) in series for 14v packs.

The charging circuits are on the systemboard, normally, not on the pack. The baattery pack and the systemboard normally chat over a serial connection.

this is the one your on about battery im not http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/4x-18650-ULTRAFIRE-Li-ion-3000mAh-3-7V-Rechargeable-Battery-Solder-Tab-H274-/230834966576?pt=UK_ConsumerElectronics_Batteries_SM&hash=item35bed61030. and a laptop or navman and meany others the charging control is on the battery, the battery your on about i have never seen in a laptops, afew house alarm memory backups but never a laptop.

Blimey, you must be pissing around with some old stuff then

these are old batterys but new type like in my laptop are flat type, and is still the same principle,, and if your charging circuit is in your laptop then you dont need new battery you need a new laptop, the old type laptops that used to take first type of re-chargeabe batterys think were on windows 3.1. they did not have a charging board in the battery as they just sloted them in like a remote. all newer batterys have them in to stop them over heating and some cases catching fire.

First 'laptop' I had wouldn't run Windows 3.1 . Actually, it wouldn't run Windows 3.0. Not sure if it could run Windows 2 TBH.


In this case, its possible its a sysemboard fault, hence the initial query. But battery is a lot cheaper. A lot, lot cheaper. As the battery is reporting its OK, but not charging, I'm hoping its the remote switch-on functionality thats not working, and hopefully, the battery side of that. I had let it go very, very flat, and left it in that state, so its possible that its corrupted the on-battery configuration, which writes off the battery unless you have the specialist equipment to get the config back on.

I think we're in the realms of 66/33 in the favour of battery. We shall see.

you should be able to test power out from the conector for the battery. with just the power lead powering the laptop. can use blade pins on some crock clips depending on battery conector. try that see if there is power, and battery you can get a battery rest softwear or just take the negitive off the battery and leave off for 10min dose the same(inside battery pack). had a few battery do that when the hard drive is over heating all being so compact heat just builds up and cuts out the battery. trigers the thermol switch. and cuts ou the battery. also if the volts from the power pack drop ie by 5volts the systerm will think its charging battery but it is not as the battery has the the wrong volts to triger the charge. have just tested it on mine with a laptop charger that is duff should have 21v peek for 19v but only gives out 14.51 volts, laptop works but will not charge batter, but says it is charging.

[Martian]

I had let it go very, very flat, and left it in that state,

Fatal for any battery IMHO.

[TheBoy]

Can you not charge the battery on the bench then see if it has any usable life in the machine?

Every machine I've seen has a switching reg on the MB to charge the battery and the chip in the battery is just memory.

Looks like this one may use some system to talk to the on-battery electronics, to 'switch on' the battery.

My investigations are being hampered by it not playing on the "if you don't come about, you bastard, my friend Sammy is gonna have a word" reluctance to fall apart in my hands.


New batt should be here tomorrow. If that works, worth investigating the old battery. If it doesn't, the machine will be destined for the Landfill site at Ardley.

[TheBoy]

I had let it go very, very flat, and left it in that state,

Fatal for any battery IMHO.

Yeah, aware it does it no favours.  I don't really use this netbook much, but handy for travelling, due to size.  So it tends to be left for months on end, then used heavily for a week or 2.