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[P6UL K]

Looking good Mark, come on quite a bit since i saw the old girl!

 

[Nickbat]

Thoroughly enjoying this thread! Way beyond my capabilities, but absorbing nevertheless. Keep it up! 

[2woody]

Gents, King Pin Inclination
Thats what you was after

No, you aren't being picky. It is quite steep, but appears ok on turning the wheels, and the projected line/angle hits the centre of the wheel at the ground horizon, so it looks ok.

KPI and ground-level offset.

the king-pin angle is really only important per se for the actual geometry.

the ground-level offset is important for a number of things - notably the steering. The self-centring is driven by the ground-level offset. Zero offset = zero self-centring. A little bit of "trail" makes the car much more stable, too.

[markrnorton]

We after a nice sunny day at Beaulieu auto jumble yesterday (its massive if you've never been), i restrained myself from buying loads of stuff and only bought alot a washers for the build (as they were cheap) and a curly air hose (every garage should have one !)

I also managed to pick up a nice oil cooler which should come in handy later on in the build, a steal at £20


Just waiting now for my new batch of laser cutting to come back now, then i can crack on with the rear suspension set-up and the get the diff mounted.

Once i have a rolling chassis i can then get the engine and gearbox positioned and fabricate the mounts.

[cam2502]

This is all mandarin Chinese to me ... But extremely interesting! Pure admiration for guys like you. Well done, can't wait to see the finished artical 

[ozzycat]

  :ybrilliant thread mate

[markrnorton]

Ok, bit of an update. Thought about the welded diff I bought and decided it would be to harsh and not really useable on the car, and the ratio a tad low perhaps.
So I sold the welded diff quite easily and found an S14 LSD that didn’t sell on ebay. So did a deal (including the prop), what a result.
I now have a tidy LSD with a ratio of 3.916:1, which is near enough spot on.

So this is the diff as I bought it


And this is cleaned up a bit and painted


The rear cover is alloy, not sure yet whether I am going to polish it or just clean it fully.
The diff can also run a cooler (as on the Nissan 200sx it came from), not sure if I will run one yet.

I now have to construct a small subframe to carry the diff and attached to the rear of the cars chassis. I am going to make some diff mounts from nylon and turn them down to fit on a lathe.

Must crack on !

[markrnorton]

Been doing a bit of groundwork at the back of the car. Cleaned up the new diff, now I need to locate and fit it to the chassis.

Being originally designed for a live rear axle the chassis has no fixing points for this independent set-up. Not sure how the half shafts will sit either, they may need cutting down to suit the new hub positions.

If you are wondering why I didn’t use the Omega diff, it was a 2 fold decision.
1.   The Omega diff is not an lsd, and trying to find one is tricky and expensive
2.   The Omega is wide, 10” wider than the Ginetta, and that’s just too much to chop out from each halfshaft.

The plus points for the Nissan lsd diff are, plentiful supply (from the drift scene!), cheap-ish, various low ratios and can run a cooler if necessary.

Anyhow, levelled the chassis, left to right and front to back, this took about 20 mins to do this properly, shimming it here and there. Then set about dummy setting out the rear wheels in the arches, running a plumb line down through the wheel centres.

This gave me the drop line and effective centre of the hubs/shafts. I projected this drop line accros the chassis and ensured I marked the chassis perpendicular to this projection. I started using the laser marker, but it ended up easier to see with string !!



The diff actually locates quite nicely toward the rear of the chassis and close to the cross rails, so it should be easy to fabricate a drop down support for the rear of the diff.




I need to fabricate the front diff cross-member  first and make some nylon bushes. Once I get the nose supported and positioned I can then double check front/rear/left/right positioning and then get the rear of the diff supported and fabricated.

The diff cooler, if I run one, will be positioned later in the rear end build.

[markrnorton]

I dont normally ask for advice as i like to do my own thing, but in this instance i am a bit in 2 minds.
welding the subframe for the diff in yesterday, it struck me, do i leave the chassis in its galvanized state of colour or do i paint the chassis black ?

not sure what it will look like from underneath
maybe another colour ?
any thoughts ?

[aaronjb]

I'd paint it black - you'll have compromised the galvanising where you've had to strip it off to weld to so you'd need to do something anyway.. might as well paint it a colour that won't stand out if you look under the car (IMHO, anyway, that's why mine is black powdercoat  )

[Andy B]

......
welding the subframe for the diff in yesterday, it struck me, do i leave the chassis in its galvanized state of colour or do i paint the chassis black ?
 ......

You do know that it doesn't do you any good to breathe the fumes from welding galv? http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Metal_fume_fever 

But I'm impressed with your progress. 

[markrnorton]

......
welding the subframe for the diff in yesterday, it struck me, do i leave the chassis in its galvanized state of colour or do i paint the chassis black ?
 ......

You do know that it doesn't do you any good to breathe the fumes from welding galv? http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Metal_fume_fever 

But I'm impressed with your progress. 

i knew about that, had to grind off the galv to weld fresh metal to it anyhow.
will touch in the welds with a sealant / inhibitor. but black chassis does seem to be a good idea.

[markrnorton]

this was a positioning mock up of the diff, perfect fit, made for the job !


took a few dimensions and came up with a bracket for the rear of the diff, will get it laser cut now.


need to just sort the front mounts and turn down some bushes

[Lazydocker]

......
welding the subframe for the diff in yesterday, it struck me, do i leave the chassis in its galvanized state of colour or do i paint the chassis black ?
 ......

You do know that it doesn't do you any good to breathe the fumes from welding galv? http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Metal_fume_fever 

But I'm impressed with your progress. 

i knew about that, had to grind off the galv to weld fresh metal to it anyhow.
will touch in the welds with a sealant / inhibitor. but black chassis does seem to be a good idea.

Don't know why, but I'd be tempted to go with a dayglow orange or something else bright

I can't explain why though

[Murph]

I'm glad you said that....  I was thinking bright yellow!