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[twiglet]

Right then, I've just picked up a 2002 2.2 dti elite estate...

It has a power problem which I believe is a vac issue.  It seems to have very little or no turbo assistance, that is unless the vac pipe to the egr valve is disconnected, then it pulls like a train.  The EML light comes on, which I have to assume is due to the egr being disconnected, but not other issues at all.

The has a brand new turbo and egr valve on it, so I suspect the problem lies elsewhere...

I can't really drive the car at the moment, as it's not texed or tested, but I'd like to try and investigate and resolve this problem while I'm dealing with the other minor issues on the car, so it's 100% ready for the MOT.

Any suggestions or pointers would be gratefully received.. 

[twiglet]

Anyone? 

[Lazydocker]

That's unusually impatient for you Twigs

I don't know the oil burners very well myself but it sounds like you've already half answered it... I'd be checking all the vac pipes are correctly connected

[twiglet]

That's unusually impatient for you Twigs

I don't know the oil burners very well myself but it sounds like you've already half answered it... I'd be checking all the vac pipes are correctly connected

Sorry Paul.    Not impatient really, just concerned that the original post would disappear down the list and people would miss it.

My fear with regards the the vac pipes is that they may well have been messed about with in the past, and may not all be going to the right place anymore.     I don't really want to use my 2.2 dti Vectra as a reference, in case it's plumbed in differently.

Ideally, it would be nice to have a known dti Omega here to cross reference against.

I've been told that it could be down to a faulty vac pump on the end of the camshaft  but I know absolutely nothing about this tbh. 

[aaronjb]

Is the 2.2 the same as the 2.5 in terms of the EGR? i.e. it's a vacuum operated valve in the inlet manifold tract with a solenoid in-line in the vac feed?

If so then your fault sounds to me like there is permanent vacuum present at the EGR nipple - that implies that the vacuum pump is working fine (easy enough to check; pull the vac hose off somewhere and stick your finger over the end, if it's sucking, it's working) and the fault is probably in the plumbing to/from the solenoid and/or the solenoid is simply goosed and stuck open..

[twiglet]

I can tell that there is a vacuum if remove the pipe from the egr and put my finger over the end of it.  It's not a massive amount of 'suck' but certainly enough to keep the pipe attached to my finger.  Not sure if this is the correct amount though. 

[markspark]

Sam Burton may be able to advise on this problem

[twiglet]

Sam Burton may be able to advise on this problem

I have spoken to Sam on this.  In fact he looked at the car before I bought it, and was the one that found disconnecting the egr improved the boost.  Unfortunately, I don't think Sam is in a very good place at the moment when it comes to the forum.  He's also not responding to my PM's... 

[05omegav6]

Had a Skoda Superb at work with a worn/weak/failing Vac Pump, first thing to fail was theservo assistance on the brakes

For reference that produced enough suck to hold a 1/2"pipe in place, barely

As a test: ignition off, pump the brake pedal until solid, keeping pedal held down, then restart.

Pedal should sink as the engine builds vacuum, how long this takes will give an indication of how effective the vac pump is....

HTH, Al

[Lazydocker]

That's unusually impatient for you Twigs

I don't know the oil burners very well myself but it sounds like you've already half answered it... I'd be checking all the vac pipes are correctly connected

Sorry Paul.    Not impatient really, just concerned that the original post would disappear down the list and people would miss it.

My fear with regards the the vac pipes is that they may well have been messed about with in the past, and may not all be going to the right place anymore.     I don't really want to use my 2.2 dti Vectra as a reference, in case it's plumbed in differently.

Ideally, it would be nice to have a known dti Omega here to cross reference against.

I've been told that it could be down to a faulty vac pump on the end of the camshaft  but I know absolutely nothing about this tbh. 

I know what you mean I'm fairly sure you could use the Veccy as a reference point, certainly for the EGR vac. In fact, try comparing the amount of "suck" at the end of the same pipe on the vec

If there is a solenoid controlling the vacuum to the EGR this could quite easily be faulty Do you have that code reader we don't talk about on here?

[twiglet]

I'll try what you said with the brake pedal, cheers Al. 

I'll take the cover off the Vectra engine and have a look then, to see if it's a similar setup.  Just been out and had a look in the failing light.  It looks like the vac pipe from the egr (about 6 inches long) goes to some kind of valve.  It has an electrical multiplug going to it, and 2 vac connections.  The one going to the egr is stamped 'OUT' and the other one is stamped 'VAC' does this seem right?

I followed all the vac pipes that I could see (there are loads of 'em!) and they all look to be in good condition, and are all connected, so I'm hoping they are all going to the correct places.

I do have said reader, although it's still packed from the house move.  I'll have to dig it out and see if it will talk... 

[Lazydocker]

I'll try what you said with the brake pedal, cheers Al. 

I'll take the cover off the Vectra engine and have a look then, to see if it's a similar setup.  Just been out and had a look in the failing light.  It looks like the vac pipe from the egr (about 6 inches long) goes to some kind of valve.  It has an electrical multiplug going to it, and 2 vac connections.  The one going to the egr is stamped 'OUT' and the other one is stamped 'VAC' does this seem right?

I followed all the vac pipes that I could see (there are loads of 'em!) and they all look to be in good condition, and are all connected, so I'm hoping they are all going to the correct places.

I do have said reader, although it's still packed from the house move.  I'll have to dig it out and see if it will talk... 

Sounds right

Dig it out and see if you can watch the vac solenoid actuation

[Sam Burton]

I may not be in a goo dplace on here in some OOFers eyes but whilst I still have the keys too mine I'll help in all ways I can, I believe it could be either a vacuum pipe in the bulk head as The garage where it was had most of the front ones changed or the Vacuum Pump on the back of the cam I remember driving it with the EGR Disconnected and it had a lot more pulling power than when it was connected if not it will be trial and error by process of elimination from the vacuum pump forward it could even be one of the solenoid valves has jammed because when the turbo went it could of sent to much air through one of the solenoids causing the mechanism to jam one way.

[twiglet]

I may not be in a goo dplace on here in some OOFers eyes but whilst I still have the keys too mine I'll help in all ways I can, I believe it could be either a vacuum pipe in the bulk head as The garage where it was had most of the front ones changed or the Vacuum Pump on the back of the cam I remember driving it with the EGR Disconnected and it had a lot more pulling power than when it was connected if not it will be trial and error by process of elimination from the vacuum pump forward it could even be one of the solenoid valves has jammed because when the turbo went it could of sent to much air through one of the solenoids causing the mechanism to jam one way.

Sam, when I said that you weren't in a good place, I meant your personal feelings towards the forum, not the other way round. No offence intended. 

Do you mean the vac pipes that pass through the bulkhead near the pollen filter housing, or is there another one I haven't found yet?

Hopefully I can prove the vac solenoid using LD's suggestion, but I think I noticed another identical solenoid down in the front offside corner of the engine bay.  Perhaps I could swap them over and see if it makes a difference?

[aaronjb]

It ought to be simple to test the solenoid, even without a tech2/etc.. pop the solenoid off, make up a couple of flying leads to the battery and stick 12v across it while blowing through it..

Should be possible to blow through it and then not possible as you add/remove 12v - which way round it is depends if it's NO or NC, of course.

Probably an obvious suggestion but just in case you hadn't thought of it