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[GrpB Tom]

Main issue is that it keeps conking out on me! Have run a diagnostic and it comes back with 0650 code which I expected as a bulb has blown on the instrument panel. It did register problems with the Cats but have replaced the whole system and that code has not resurfaced.

Of interest, is that just prior to conking out there is a noticeable downshift thud from the gearbox - its not severe but heavier than normal. Also the general 'feel' of the car has deterioated - not so much power, more gear changes than before and acceleration not so sharp.

The engine has been regularly serviced, The transmission hasn't been touched - ever! Thinking problem lies there.
Did the dianostic on that and came back with 'incorrect ratio' but removed the coil packs (cylinder 5+6 full of oil) and cleaned the sparks, tested it and the code did not reappear. Confused? Oh yes indeedy!!!
Any help would be great.

[feeutfo]

Try checking the codes via pedal trick. As the guide in maintanance, then post the codes here.

...ah, which bulb has blown? If its the engine symbol it's probably been removed to hide the common pre cat codes.

If its the car/spanner light thats failed, the codes can NOT be read via pedal trick.

Pedal trick will tell you the engine ecu codes only. It will not give, for instance, gear box codes.

ATF service schedule is about 60k according to oof recommendations. ..?

[05omegav6]

Must type faster

Transmission would probably benefit from a fluid and filter change.

Oil in plug wells mean that the camcover gaskets are failing, if left the coil packs will eventually fail.
Solution is to replace the gaskets and clean the breather system thoroughly

Have a look at the Maintenance Section and from the index you'll find the guides for this

The crank sensor may also be failing, which often gives either no codes or random codes that is probably the cause of the cutting out.

How many miles has the car done? Alot of the issues that Omegas have, and there are only a handful of them really, happen at around 100k give or take

[dbug]

Try checking the codes via pedal trick. As the guide in maintanance, then post the codes here.

...ah, which bulb has blown? If its the engine symbol it's probably been removed to hide the common pre cat codes.

If its the car/spanner light thats failed, the codes can NOT be read via pedal trick.

Pedal trick will tell you the engine ecu codes only. It will not give, for instance, gear box codes.

ATF service schedule is about 60k according to oof recommendations. ..?

Op has means to run diags (incl gearbox) - why do a pedal test???

I concur with Al - first off gearbox fluid and filter change.

Clean breathers and fit new genuine Vx camcover gaskets.

Also would look to replace crank sensor 

[GrpB Tom]

Thanks for the feedback - really encouraging for a 1st timer.

Car has done 103K. i have a spare crankshaft sensor good to go. Diagnostics didn't show a problem so wasn't intending to replace - but happy to take advice on this.

Gearbox and filter clean forefront of mind at the moment - not too sure where to drain or fill up let alone finding the filter. Any tips?
You are ALL wonderful people!

[dbug]

Duff crank sensor doesn't always throw a code

To drain atf you have to remove sumps.  You will then see filter which can be removed and cleaned.  Level/filler plug on drivers side of gearbox just above sump joints.

Believe there's a how to

[05omegav6]

Only use a genuine crank sensor though a pattern one might not last a week

[albitz]

Thanks for the feedback - really encouraging for a 1st timer.

Car has done 103K. i have a spare crankshaft sensor good to go. Diagnostics didn't show a problem so wasn't intending to replace - but happy to take advice on this.

Gearbox and filter clean forefront of mind at the moment - not too sure where to drain or fill up let alone finding the filter. Any tips?
You are ALL wonderful people!

http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/index.php?topic=90664.0       

[feeutfo]

Try checking the codes via pedal trick. As the guide in maintanance, then post the codes here.

...ah, which bulb has blown? If its the engine symbol it's probably been removed to hide the common pre cat codes.

If its the car/spanner light thats failed, the codes can NOT be read via pedal trick.

Pedal trick will tell you the engine ecu codes only. It will not give, for instance, gear box codes.

ATF service schedule is about 60k according to oof recommendations. ..?

Op has means to run diags (incl gearbox) - why do a pedal test???

Why not? It's free, easier, and more accurate than some code readers that seem to get in a fuddle, such as snap on, or bosch that can give different codes on the same issue or not show codes at all. I've seen it.

Op doesn't say if he has personal access, and what reader. He may have to pay, and be getting spurious or inaccurate data through the hands of a Gorilla. He may also have a tech2 in his possession, in which case, both pedal trick and tech2 can be trusted.

Interesting of all the input here you continually choose mine to be pedantic with.

[GrpB Tom]

My weekend battle plan is starting to take shape..... the crankshaft sensor is made by Kerr Nelson. Have been assured ts OEM. Because it looks striaght forward and the process well documented here I'll change that 1st. Then the transmission.

Transmission filters for the AR35 box - can these just be cleaned up or is replacement necessary. Also taking the sump off without draining strikes me as potentially very messy. Any tips? or is it a case of lots of newspsper?

Did the pedal check - thoses light are bloomin' fast. Had to repeat the test 4 times before I got it accurately. Came back with the 0650 code which is the blown/missing engine bulb. Have heard that if you disconnect the battery with the key on II this saves all your settings - is this correct?

[05omegav6]

Atf change is messy, hope you like the smell of dexron 3

Pedal trick is useful, but quite hard to keep up with the flashes not sure about the memory thing

Take it that the emissions (engine shaped) light isn't working then easy enough to change the bulbs in the cluster

[ffcgary1]

Kerr nelson crank sensor ? never heard of it but only use genuine GM Crank sensor.
Gary.

[Shackeng]

My weekend battle plan is starting to take shape..... the crankshaft sensor is made by Kerr Nelson. Have been assured ts OEM. Because it looks striaght forward and the process well documented here I'll change that 1st. Then the transmission.

Transmission filters for the AR35 box - can these just be cleaned up or is replacement necessary. Also taking the sump off without draining strikes me as potentially very messy. Any tips? or is it a case of lots of newspsper?

Did the pedal check - thoses light are bloomin' fast. Had to repeat the test 4 times before I got it accurately. Came back with the 0650 code which is the blown/missing engine bulb. Have heard that if you disconnect the battery with the key on II this saves all your settings - is this correct?

You can remove most of the fluid in the main sump by syphoning it out via the level plug, (I didn't think of that when doing mine ,) but with care didn't spill much, and do follow the 'how to' carefully when refilling.

[GrpB Tom]

Well, changed the crankshaft sensor with no major dramas. The new sensor runs very close to the exhasut manifold shield which is a bit disconcerting. Cable tied the wire to the brake lines running on the side of the engine compartment and that seems to be holding it clear. Lucky for me the wiring loom support that runs right across the nearside set of cylinders had been broken previously so I was able to lift the sensor connection clear and unplug it. It was attached to its securing mount. That was discarded. Heavens knows how you'd get access otherwise.
Once all fitted, fired up and the engine ran perfectly. No issues on a test drive so looks like the problem was all to do with the crankshaft sensor.

Flush with success I decided not to attempt the gearbox oil change - will save that for next weekend!
Will let you know how it all goes!

[feeutfo]

Good stuff. Genuine sensor?