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[tidla]

I assume the front camber alters with a mixture of deterioration, age and suspension settle.
This also has an affect on toe settings?

Does a change occur with the rear suspension?  If so, having a basic wheel alignment using four wheel alignment equipment without knowing whether the rear toe is correct could be a waste of time.

Marks dtm settings for the front camber is 1.20'
The rear camber is suggested at 1.35' and toe at 0.15' which are a compromise/adjusted together?

thanks

[feeutfo]

-1.10 at the front, but theory sounds Prety good to me tbh.

Order of set up is, caster camber toe on the front. Camber and toe at the rear. So any set up that doesn't take camber into account is utterly pointless on this car.

Settle over time, ESP on new suspension, and bush wear are the real buggers to keep an eye on IME.

[Pedders Suspension]

If you have too much camber, we stock an off-set camber bush and a Urethane version which has on-board camber adjustability to help reduce the amount of camber while keeping the ride height that you desire and your normal toe adjustability.

The Pedders rubber camber offset version is the 5803



And the Pedders Urethane adjustable version is the 5403 (which I need to ask the Omega listing on the website!).



We'd like to offer the OOF members 10% off on our Omega products. Please contact me via PM for the discount code that you'll need to enter on the check out page for this 10% discount. (Note, members must have 50 posts of more to be entitled to the discount).

Regards

Michael @ Pedders

[tidla]

Thanks for the info.
Hopefully when the polly bushes eventually turn and get fitted (standard ride height) i should be able to get it set up without further complication.

[feeutfo]

I can see the use of two bolts and spring washers per bush on the rubber bushes, but why the two nuts, and only two lock washers on the poly ones Mike, do you know?
And is that a c spanner tap round with a hammer and punch adjustment?

[Andy B]

.....
And is that a c spanner tap round with a hammer and punch adjustment?

<shakes head in disbelief>


   

[feeutfo]

.....
And is that a c spanner tap round with a hammer and punch adjustment?

<shakes head in disbelief>


   

'av it!

[Pedders Suspension]

I can see the use of two bolts and spring washers per bush on the rubber bushes, but why the two nuts, and only two lock washers on the poly ones Mike, do you know?
And is that a c spanner tap round with a hammer and punch adjustment?

Basically, the long bolt bottoms out in the centre bar and has a lock nut fitted. With the lock nut undone (and the bolt the other side slackened off) you can then use a spanner to turn the long bolt (clockwise) as it is bottomed out. Once in the right place, tighten up the lock nut and the short bolt the other side.

For clarity, the poly version is only recommended for use where there is NO toe control link. If you have a toe control link, then we recommend the use of the rubber version.

Roger (Michael is away today)

[feeutfo]

I can see the use of two bolts and spring washers per bush on the rubber bushes, but why the two nuts, and only two lock washers on the poly ones Mike, do you know?
And is that a c spanner tap round with a hammer and punch adjustment?

Basically, the long bolt bottoms out in the centre bar and has a lock nut fitted. With the lock nut undone (and the bolt the other side slackened off) you can then use a spanner to turn the long bolt (clockwise) as it is bottomed out. Once in the right place, tighten up the lock nut and the short bolt the other side.

For clarity, the poly version is only recommended for use where there is NO toe control link. If you have a toe control link, then we recommend the use of the rubber version.

Roger (Michael is away today)

Omega does have a toe tie rod.

[Pedders Suspension]

I can see the use of two bolts and spring washers per bush on the rubber bushes, but why the two nuts, and only two lock washers on the poly ones Mike, do you know?
And is that a c spanner tap round with a hammer and punch adjustment?

Basically, the long bolt bottoms out in the centre bar and has a lock nut fitted. With the lock nut undone (and the bolt the other side slackened off) you can then use a spanner to turn the long bolt (clockwise) as it is bottomed out. Once in the right place, tighten up the lock nut and the short bolt the other side.

For clarity, the poly version is only recommended for use where there is NO toe control link. If you have a toe control link, then we recommend the use of the rubber version.

Roger (Michael is away today)

Omega does have a toe tie rod.

I assume that is all of them?

[feeutfo]

I can see the use of two bolts and spring washers per bush on the rubber bushes, but why the two nuts, and only two lock washers on the poly ones Mike, do you know?
And is that a c spanner tap round with a hammer and punch adjustment?

Basically, the long bolt bottoms out in the centre bar and has a lock nut fitted. With the lock nut undone (and the bolt the other side slackened off) you can then use a spanner to turn the long bolt (clockwise) as it is bottomed out. Once in the right place, tighten up the lock nut and the short bolt the other side.

For clarity, the poly version is only recommended for use where there is NO toe control link. If you have a toe control link, then we recommend the use of the rubber version.

Roger (Michael is away today)

Omega does have a toe tie rod.

I assume that is all of them?

springs and shocks aside, omega b suspension is the same accross the range, within estate and saloon variants obviously. So yes all the same.

So Rubber ones only for us lot.


Can't speak for Carlton (omega a) though.

[Pedders Suspension]

I can see the use of two bolts and spring washers per bush on the rubber bushes, but why the two nuts, and only two lock washers on the poly ones Mike, do you know?
And is that a c spanner tap round with a hammer and punch adjustment?

Basically, the long bolt bottoms out in the centre bar and has a lock nut fitted. With the lock nut undone (and the bolt the other side slackened off) you can then use a spanner to turn the long bolt (clockwise) as it is bottomed out. Once in the right place, tighten up the lock nut and the short bolt the other side.

For clarity, the poly version is only recommended for use where there is NO toe control link. If you have a toe control link, then we recommend the use of the rubber version.

Roger (Michael is away today)

Omega does have a toe tie rod.

I assume that is all of them?

springs and shocks aside, omega b suspension is the same accross the range, within estate and saloon variants obviously. So yes all the same.

So Rubber ones only for us lot.


Can't speak for Carlton (omega a) though.

Sounds like it There isn't really enough "give" in the poly ones to absorb the deflection imparted by the toe control link.

[Pedders Suspension]

Morning all!

I looked up the specs for the Omega thought that the tie-rod was fitted after a certain chassis number. Did they all receive this from 1994?

Regards

Michael @ Pedders

[2woody]

Omega A

No tie-rod :-

all four-cylinder cars
early six-cylinder cars

Tie-rod

later six-cylinder cars
all 24V cars

Omega B

all cars have tie-rods

Cars with a tie-rod MUST NOT have anything other than the original ( flexy ) inner bush fitted, otherwise the suspension will bind up as it rises and falls.

[Pedders Suspension]

Omega A

No tie-rod :-

all four-cylinder cars
early six-cylinder cars

Tie-rod

later six-cylinder cars
all 24V cars

Omega B

all cars have tie-rods

Cars with a tie-rod MUST NOT have anything other than the original ( flexy ) inner bush fitted, otherwise the suspension will bind up as it rises and falls.

Thanks Woody, that's great information. We agree with regard to the poly bush and tie-rod cars. They don't work together.

I'll update the website with the above information.

Regards

Michael @ Pedders