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Author Topic: Buying a used car guide...  (Read 3375 times)

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Webby the Bear

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Buying a used car guide...
« on: 25 February 2013, 21:15:53 »

Hi guys,

As previously posted I'm looking for a new used motor. After doing lots of research and knowing what I know this is what I'll be looking for when I go to purchase. I though this may be handy for people and of course if anybody has got anything else they do or want to add.....go for it.  :y

Exterior:
Walk round - open all doors (open from inside also), look for rust everywhere on bodywork and around wheel arches, look for body seems to match up (anywhere the seems vary in thickness could be a bad sign), measure wheel to arch and compare to other side, paint overspray (sign of body work following collision), sunroof dents/dimple (poss. big collision), look at the struts and springs...any leaks from shocks, bounce the front and rear...any noise.

Tyres: Wear over whole width, cracking, run hand over, same axel/same type, sizes are same, wheel lock-nut key

Interior: boot tools, spare tyre (check tread), leaks in boot/interior, records/receipts (especially for CAMBELT if needed), radio code, smell for damp, everything works (inc. fold down seats), move seats, move all seat functions, everything electrical works, CHECK ENGINE/WARNING LIGHTS, check heater!

Under bonnet: oil leaks, belts, batt, ALL fluids, spin cooling fan. N.B. if brake fluid low could also indicate the pads are low and may need changing.

Run the car... allow to idle for a while, make sure of smooth idle.

Exhaust smoke on start up. blue smoke very bad! exhaust pressure with rag.

Test drive: start up/idle, cranking enthusiastic and quick? note for any dash/check engine lights, floor it, kickdown - listen to and feel shifts, look for misses, temp gauge climbs nicely and settles half way, hands off steering wheel - no pulling to one side, no vibrations, steering wheel straight, brake vibrations, braking to one side, engine noise, brake hard, lock to lock - suspension noises/clicking/rubbing, how does steering feel, suspension noises on pot holes

finally do a Car text check on 83600  :y

hope this helps as this is what i'll be doing. feel free to add more  :y (looking over my mates new car took us 2 hours in total.... no hiding  ;D

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cem_devecioglu

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Re: Buying a used car guide...
« Reply #1 on: 25 February 2013, 21:46:13 »

a tiny long rope on individual sides from front tyre to rears on lower sections and if wings and tyre permit on upper sections..
 
also measurement in mms from left wing edge to right hood strut or any point on the right in front of windscreen and right wing edge to left etc..
 
also the distance between tyres on individual sides can be measured from point to point..  must be same..
 
gearbox and clutch test
 
starting test from cold(I mean really cold if it was started before and warmed up-test not sufficient)  and starting test from really hot
 
never try to buy a dirty/muddy car.. will hide many details..   
 
place your head and eyes paralel to hood , doors, wings ,roof (all parts) and check for non-uniform reflections..  white and silver colors will hide many details where dark colors show them as it is.. also and paint imperfectiosn like dust, dust bubbles,holes will be visible..
 
all windows fully down and up several times check for noises, some may drop self ;D
 
visually check the coolant reservoir..
 
a washed shiny engine always makes me suspicious..
 
sunroof open close tilt..
 
and corners of doors , hood, roof bonnet  where paint dusts will accumulate and mostly left traces..
 
white residue of sanding inside the engine bay especially on hoses hidden corners..
 
 
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Vamps

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Re: Buying a used car guide...
« Reply #2 on: 25 February 2013, 22:31:09 »

I know what to do but have made some simple mistakes in the past, remember a nice clean car with fsh don't necessarily make it good, tbh I almost think the opposite in some ways.... ::) ::)

Check number of keys before you agree to purchase.
Radio code present, the correct one
No warning lights, don't if you can help it buy a car miles away from home, you are far more likely to accept a known fault if you have driven 150 miles to pick it up.
Do not buy the very car you want today, because the real very car you want will be for sale, near you the very next day.......... ;) ;) ;)
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joshwyatt

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Re: Buying a used car guide...
« Reply #3 on: 25 February 2013, 22:42:51 »

Those are all very valid points, I look at a few other things aswell.
Do the registration plates match, as in the front one is from J W Motors and the rear is from Halfords. Can indicate previous repair, albeit minor. The fuel filler cap opens. What non standard items have been fitted, if any, and by whom.
What is the CAP price, which is fairly accurate. Other guide's are off by a large degree.
Battery state, does it start unaided.

Although sometimes, I buy a vehucle having never seen it, and the vast majority of the time it's fine.

Webby, if there's anything in particular you're looking for, feel free to PM and I'll see if anything fits the bill at any auctions etc.

I don't tend to have small(er) vehicles by choice, but it gives me a better chance to be scathing when people offer them to me, and get them nice and cheaply  ;D

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Re: Buying a used car guide...
« Reply #4 on: 25 February 2013, 22:46:35 »

Don't buy anything in the rain or just after its been washed  :y
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Re: Buying a used car guide...
« Reply #5 on: 25 February 2013, 22:52:15 »

Exterior - stand well back and look along sides - easier to spot resprayed parts or misaligned panels ;)
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Webby the Bear

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Re: Buying a used car guide...
« Reply #6 on: 27 February 2013, 18:13:03 »

a tiny long rope on individual sides from front tyre to rears on lower sections and if wings and tyre permit on upper sections..
 
also measurement in mms from left wing edge to right hood strut or any point on the right in front of windscreen and right wing edge to left etc..
 
also the distance between tyres on individual sides can be measured from point to point..  must be same..
 
gearbox and clutch test
 
starting test from cold(I mean really cold if it was started before and warmed up-test not sufficient)  and starting test from really hot
 
never try to buy a dirty/muddy car.. will hide many details..   
 
place your head and eyes paralel to hood , doors, wings ,roof (all parts) and check for non-uniform reflections..  white and silver colors will hide many details where dark colors show them as it is.. also and paint imperfectiosn like dust, dust bubbles,holes will be visible..
 
all windows fully down and up several times check for noises, some may drop self ;D
 
visually check the coolant reservoir..
 
a washed shiny engine always makes me suspicious..
 
sunroof open close tilt..
 
and corners of doors , hood, roof bonnet  where paint dusts will accumulate and mostly left traces..
 
white residue of sanding inside the engine bay especially on hoses hidden corners..

cem, do you mean you should measure between front and back wheelsd and to wheel arches?  :y

Also i need to add that chucking it over some big pot holes at speed is a good idea :y
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cem_devecioglu

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Re: Buying a used car guide...
« Reply #7 on: 27 February 2013, 20:29:03 »

a tiny long rope on individual sides from front tyre to rears on lower sections and if wings and tyre permit on upper sections..
 
also measurement in mms from left wing edge to right hood strut or any point on the right in front of windscreen and right wing edge to left etc..
 
also the distance between tyres on individual sides can be measured from point to point..  must be same..
 
gearbox and clutch test
 
starting test from cold(I mean really cold if it was started before and warmed up-test not sufficient)  and starting test from really hot
 
never try to buy a dirty/muddy car.. will hide many details..   
 
place your head and eyes paralel to hood , doors, wings ,roof (all parts) and check for non-uniform reflections..  white and silver colors will hide many details where dark colors show them as it is.. also and paint imperfectiosn like dust, dust bubbles,holes will be visible..
 
all windows fully down and up several times check for noises, some may drop self ;D
 
visually check the coolant reservoir..
 
a washed shiny engine always makes me suspicious..
 
sunroof open close tilt..
 
and corners of doors , hood, roof bonnet  where paint dusts will accumulate and mostly left traces..
 
white residue of sanding inside the engine bay especially on hoses hidden corners..

cem, do you mean you should measure between front and back wheelsd and to wheel arches?  :y

Also i need to add that chucking it over some big pot holes at speed is a good idea :y

yep .. front and rear wheels distances must be equal in both sides.. also tyre to wheel arch front (bumper level -horizontal)
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78bex

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Re: Buying a used car guide...
« Reply #8 on: 28 February 2013, 01:55:16 »

the maths are simple
Ron pays £1200 for the wrecked 2008 astra
He spends a few weekends working his magic & about £500 in materials
so now Ron is into the car for £1700 & sells you the car for £4000.
But you think your getting a £5k car for £4k
So thats £2300 in pure profit & he`s a frickin genious.
I know Ron personally & all his sneaky tricks. He lives in a big house & his missus is a bit tasty. I first met him a few years ago, yes I think i had a very bent astra at the time!     
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Re: Buying a used car guide...
« Reply #9 on: 28 February 2013, 11:53:51 »

a tiny long rope on individual sides from front tyre to rears on lower sections and if wings and tyre permit on upper sections..
 
also measurement in mms from left wing edge to right hood strut or any point on the right in front of windscreen and right wing edge to left etc..
 
also the distance between tyres on individual sides can be measured from point to point..  must be same..
 
gearbox and clutch test
 
starting test from cold(I mean really cold if it was started before and warmed up-test not sufficient)  and starting test from really hot
 
never try to buy a dirty/muddy car.. will hide many details..   
 
place your head and eyes paralel to hood , doors, wings ,roof (all parts) and check for non-uniform reflections..  white and silver colors will hide many details where dark colors show them as it is.. also and paint imperfectiosn like dust, dust bubbles,holes will be visible..
 
all windows fully down and up several times check for noises, some may drop self ;D
 
visually check the coolant reservoir..
 
a washed shiny engine always makes me suspicious..
 
sunroof open close tilt..
 
and corners of doors , hood, roof bonnet  where paint dusts will accumulate and mostly left traces..
 
white residue of sanding inside the engine bay especially on hoses hidden corners..

cem, do you mean you should measure between front and back wheelsd and to wheel arches?  :y

Also i need to add that chucking it over some big pot holes at speed is a good idea :y

I'd get the arse if someone came and done that purposefully. I'm always welcoming and invite people to put their foot down, and see how a car feels, but going over a pot hole at speed I'd go loopy, regardless of whether it's a £500 car or a £50,000 car. Take it over a slightly rough surface and you'll hear a suspension knock much better than racing it over a pot hole.
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Webby the Bear

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Re: Buying a used car guide...
« Reply #10 on: 28 February 2013, 22:32:53 »

a tiny long rope on individual sides from front tyre to rears on lower sections and if wings and tyre permit on upper sections..
 
also measurement in mms from left wing edge to right hood strut or any point on the right in front of windscreen and right wing edge to left etc..
 
also the distance between tyres on individual sides can be measured from point to point..  must be same..
 
gearbox and clutch test
 
starting test from cold(I mean really cold if it was started before and warmed up-test not sufficient)  and starting test from really hot
 
never try to buy a dirty/muddy car.. will hide many details..   
 
place your head and eyes paralel to hood , doors, wings ,roof (all parts) and check for non-uniform reflections..  white and silver colors will hide many details where dark colors show them as it is.. also and paint imperfectiosn like dust, dust bubbles,holes will be visible..
 
all windows fully down and up several times check for noises, some may drop self ;D
 
visually check the coolant reservoir..
 
a washed shiny engine always makes me suspicious..
 
sunroof open close tilt..
 
and corners of doors , hood, roof bonnet  where paint dusts will accumulate and mostly left traces..
 
white residue of sanding inside the engine bay especially on hoses hidden corners..

cem, do you mean you should measure between front and back wheelsd and to wheel arches?  :y

Also i need to add that chucking it over some big pot holes at speed is a good idea :y

I'd get the arse if someone came and done that purposefully. I'm always welcoming and invite people to put their foot down, and see how a car feels, but going over a pot hole at speed I'd go loopy, regardless of whether it's a £500 car or a £50,000 car. Take it over a slightly rough surface and you'll hear a suspension knock much better than racing it over a pot hole.

i think our ideas of going over at speed may be different del  :y :y :y :y
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Re: Buying a used car guide...
« Reply #11 on: 01 March 2013, 00:24:37 »

lift the rubber windows seals to see the paintwork underneath, if there is a line that doesn't wipe out it has been resprayed. Sprayers almost never remove rubber trim, they just mask it.

Check the MOT history with DVLA, if you have the reg and one MOT number or the V5 number you can look up all the MOT history, mileage, failures, advisorys etc... 

Make sure all the warning lights come on with the ignition.  I've seem a honda where the bulb of the EMWL had simply been taken out.

Take a check list like you have done and go through it line by line.  I had one for the omega can't find it at the moment.
« Last Edit: 01 March 2013, 00:27:16 by dbdb »
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Re: Buying a used car guide...
« Reply #12 on: 01 March 2013, 00:28:54 »

aha found my checklist or at least an early version:

Engine Bay
Oil in spark plugs
Oil
Water in oil cap
Oil in water
Start (check cold)
EGR
Pressure from oil filler
Battery eye
Rumbles
Tappets noise (oil filler)
belts

Interior
Windscreen wipers and wash
Lights - hazard, head, full, reversing, stop, turn, side
Handbrake
Power steering
Steering play
Central locking
All warning lights
Air con/climate
all windows
Sun roof
Electric mirrors
Electric blind
Radio inc steering controls, speakers
Computer (fuel consumption, range)
horn
Temperature
Heater
Heated seats
Alarm
Doors and boot

Exterior
Re-spray
Rust
Tyres inc wear
Shocks x 4
Wheel bearings x 4
Brake discs front and rear
Exhaust – rear and mid, joints
Smoke and oil round exhaust
Oil leaks – engine & transaxle
Spare wheel


Drive
Gear changes inc reverse
Clutch
Brakes – pull, ABS
Smoke on acceleration
Cruise control
Noises – tinkling
Temperature
Traction control

Paperwork
Service history – timing belt, repairs
MOTs – mileage, advisories
V5,
Owner proof of id
Bill of sale (previous and new)
Keys x 2+
Manual inc stereo
Stereo code



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dbdb

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Re: Buying a used car guide...
« Reply #13 on: 01 March 2013, 00:35:19 »

...finally do a Car text check on 83600  :y
Not sure who that is but I wouldn't pay anyone to do a check .  Check for free with the DVLA here https://www.gov.uk/check-mot-history-vehicle and demand proper id from the seller - ideally photo eg passport plus proof of address or at least proof of address eg council tax bill and signature id, eg a credit card.
« Last Edit: 01 March 2013, 00:39:30 by dbdb »
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feeutfo

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Re: Buying a used car guide...
« Reply #14 on: 01 March 2013, 10:10:05 »

Given the amount if slop available with subframe positions, I would NOT give too much attention to wheel position. Unless its obvious. In which case, well, it will be obvious. ;)
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