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[kluku5]

Hello.

Can someone tell me exactly what these fault codes mean, how do i fix them, and if they are responsible for knock in engine (further below):
57   Idle Air Control Voltage Low
94   Hall Sensor Voltage High

Now about the knock.
Cylinder nr. 3 stopped working, so i check the plug wires etc. Eventually changed the wires, DIS pack, spark plugs and cam cover gaskets. Now all cylinders work, but theres this knock in top area of my engine. I don't think it sounds like misfire, but I don't know for sure. It didn't have this knock before (it's been standing since november I think), but now all of the sudden it's there. Could it be that engine belt has jumped a tooth when I started it, after it just stood still for so long (have to change it in 5000km, so it's quite old too)?

Oh and EML light is on too when engine is running.

So as always any help is welcome

[dbug]

Difficult to diagnose a knock without hearing it.  Top end - could possibly be a sticky lifter - if so a couple of quick oil changes may help.

Codes - try cleaning ICV (Idle control valve) and lightly oiling it

[kluku5]

Will try

Can you tell me what the hall sensor even is? And how can I fix that, or is it possible to fix that by lubing ICV as well?

Thank you for your help

[jonny2112]

Don't know about the sensor, but I think it would be well worth checking the belt, just in case 
Been there 

[RobG]

Hall sensor, commonly known as camshaft sensor is located on passenger side head at front and fits into a hole in the front cam bearing, held in with one torx bolt

Cam (Hall) sensor basically relays info to engine ECU re; which piston is currently being fired

[jonny2112]

Cheers Rob 

[dbug]

Unusual for cam sensor problems on V6s (altho I did have a faulty on on the 2.6V6), so I would deal with the ICV first.

Symptoms we had with duff cam sensor was tendency to stall as revs dropped.

HTH

[doz]

While I was doing the LPG conversion I fired the car up and i had forgotten to plug in the ICV and TPS. The CID came up with a gearbox fault!!! Strange how the system gets in a twist

[kluku5]

Well thank you people

So, I'll start with ICV and see if that fixes my fault codes, and if it doesent' should I replace the cam sensor?
I'll also do some quick oil changes as suggested, payday is coming soon . Should I also replace the oil filter?
And If it still knocks, I guess I'll take it to a shop for belt change

Thanks again, don't know where would I be with my car without OOF

[dbug]

Well thank you people

So, I'll start with ICV and see if that fixes my fault codes, and if it doesent' should I replace the cam sensor?
I'll also do some quick oil changes as suggested, payday is coming soon . Should I also replace the oil filter?
And If it still knocks, I guess I'll take it to a shop for belt change

Thanks again, don't know where would I be with my car without OOF

 

[kluku5]

Ok so.

I found out today that the cam sensor plug was disconnected lol . I plugged it and voila, no fault codes, engine ran much more smoothly, there was still some faint knocking, but it dissapeared when engine got warm. But, I did a short test-drive, and at a junction little uphill, when I released the brakes and gave some throttle, the engine just stalled out of the blue. Also at around 30 km/h the car starts to vibrate quite much. I couldn't understand exactly, but I hope it is because it's just frozen somewhere. I am going to look it over with a more experienced friend later, but if you have any ideas, please share them

[car5car]

Crank sensor on some other car was falling apart and making knocking noise. I used some glue to fix it. I spent many hours diagnosing the problem.
Get a stethoscope and try to locate knock.

[kluku5]

I drove the car a bit yesterday and the knock is now gone, I think it was a lifter? Also gone is the vibration, something really was frozen Now the last thing to fix is low idle (500 rpm). Cleaned the ICV, today doing EGR. If these won't help, what do you think it could be?

[doz]

5-600 idle is about right with the air con switched off. Mine idle as low as 400 sometimes with it switched off. Not a lot you can do about it im afraid

[kluku5]

Yeah, still running rough. It appears that one cylinder still isn't working, allowed CO is 0.3 and I have 3.778. Although it's better after I changed DIS pack, plugs and leads. I am out of ideas, taking it to a shop tomorrow, maybe they can find and see which/why one of the cylinders is not working.

Thanks everybody