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[Andy H]

https://www.dropbox.com/sh/f6kx9dg8ujqxp7t/jjxhb6lONv

That works

(I still wouldn't support my car by the wishbones though)

[sassanach]

i would'nt bother with the wood

[chrisgixer]

Not as bad as I imagined, but IMO don't jack on the wb. Not worth the risk.

I wonder how the ride height compares with car on the ground, any measurement taken? Wheel to top of wheel arch?
I'd expect it to ride higher...?

[sassanach]

and ive lost count of the vehicles ive jacked up on the diff without repercussions,including my mig

[chrisgixer]

and ive lost count of the vehicles ive jacked up on the diff without repercussions,including my mig

That you've noticed.

Where's that pic of TB's dif bushes....

[sassanach]

and ive lost count of the vehicles ive jacked up on the diff without repercussions,including my mig

That you've noticed.

Where's that pic of TB's dif bushes....

true

[chrisgixer]

These are TuBys sub frame to body bushes, they sit directly behind the dif, and are the ones that are unbolted to drop the subframe to change the springs.

The top one is completely separated, bar a strand of rubber. The centre alloy bit that's come out, is bolted to the subrafame which is then bolted to the dif.

If the car is raised by jacking on the dif, the entire weight of the car is acting to pull the alloy block away from the cup/u shaped bracket, and rip the rubber apart.

These had done 170k miles and gave a "loose rear end feal" iirc. They have not been forced apart by jacking on the dif to raise the car in this instance, as it was noticed some time before that the slloy had gone furry and oxidised, this had eaten into the rubber to alloy bond and they had separated.

Jacking on the dif will apply forces that want to lift these out of the cup.

[dbug]

Here's that pic -



 

[chrisgixer]

And those discs have had it btw.

[tunnie]

And those discs have had it btw.

Yup exactly like MotherT's fine in outside I bet, and top edge inside, but feked at the bottom.

[TheBoy]

And those discs have had it btw.

They all seem to go like that, no idea why...

[TheBoy]

These had done 170k miles and gave a "loose rear end feal" iirc.

Tight as a duck's backside now, but I reckon replacing those and the poly doughnuts have trashed what I can get out of rear tyres. Then again, RT's were never gong to be durable 

[chrisgixer]

And those discs have had it btw.

They all seem to go like that, no idea why...

Iirc, I reckoned the splash guard is short at the bottom.
And you rekoned the caliper twists away under heavy breaking...?

If the rust eats in from the edge, as it looked on mine...why not both sides?

...in both cases, why doesn't it do it on both sides..? The splash guard would get the edge wet of both faces, although the face is slightly exposed inboard.

If the caliper twists, then the inside radiuos of the outboard face would suffer too.


Dunno either.

[chrisgixer]

These had done 170k miles and gave a "loose rear end feal" iirc.

Tight as a duck's backside now, but I reckon replacing those and the poly doughnuts have trashed what I can get out of rear tyres. Then again, RT's were never gong to be durable 

So you suspect less miles from the rears...?

Might well be, the rear has less opportunity to articulate with poly rears. So gives a tighter turn in feel, less slop. But, the rears are not following the same radius as well as oe bushes. (Think four wheel steering, effectively. )

I must say though, the confidence on turn in is much improved. Especially on poor surfaces/worn Tarmac on higher speed corners

[chrisgixer]

Actually, I suspect the extra confidence is the problem there.