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[frenchtony]

So I've got the new belt on and I've been following the dvd but mine is different, the pulley/tensioner for banks 3 & 4 on my car is not adjustable! the one for one and two is and the tensioner is as per the dvd,

I've set it up correctly and now I've rotated to check the timing and it is out, so how do I adjust the timing for 3 & 4?

thanks

[Andy B]

So I've got the new belt on and I've been following the dvd but mine is different, the pulley/tensioner for banks 3 & 4 on my car is not adjustable! the one for one and two is and the tensioner is as per the dvd,

I've set it up correctly and now I've rotated to check the timing and it is out, so how do I adjust the timing for 3 & 4?

thanks

That's correct for a 2.6/3.2 
You say the timing is out ....... where? I presume you're a tooth out somewhere   

[frenchtony]

thanks for the reply

I think you are right, I took it off lined up the cams manually (v tricky) put in the cam locks and started again. I reused the eccentric pulley and now I have a little ahead on 1-2 and a fraction behind on 3-4,

I am on the limits of adjustment of the eccentric pulleys.

Anymore help reassurance appreciated
 
please see attached photos

[chrisgixer]

The bottom picture shows an adjustable pulley. It has an arrow and an adjuster with an off centre eccentric adjustment.

Do you have the correct cam belt kit?

If you can't get the marks lined up by adjusting the rollers to pull it round, then your a tooth out relative to the crank lock position.

This is the tricky bit with these. Just getting the belt on isn't enough, you need to get the belt on correctly.

Do not remove the locks. Remove the belt, then practice fitting the belt in a way that gives the correct position, so the teeth line up.

Then adjust 3/4 via the roller(if its adjustable as the pic) to get the last few mill so its clock on.

Then same with 1/2.

[chrisgixer]

I find starting with the belt at 1/2-back roller off-do 3/4- down to the bottom roller backed off-then down to the crank which should pop on if the belt is square. Then you may need to remove the tensioner roller, get the belt in position, then put the tensioner in position and fit it.

In other words...Due to the lip on the rollers you may find it much easier to remove a roller, put the belt in place, then the roller in place, then bolt in. It just gives a bit of extra slack to get it all fitted AND lined up. Doesn't matter which roller to which way round you do it, what ever work really.

Hth

[frenchtony]

well I've refitted the belt 1 and 2 are spot on 3 and 4  are just a tad out will it do?

[frenchtony]

now cam 3 is like this


just can't seem to get the belt any tighter on the stretch between cam 4 and the crankshaft

[allen25]

Personally I wouldn't accept anything other than perfect timing. I did mine last change and there were no 'timing/set up' marks on the new belt (new GM kit). It took me a good while to align the belt properly..no markings on the belt to help so several attempts. After many attempts I did fit it correctly and was able to time up correctly (similar/same locking/timing kit to yours).

Before I started the job I did check the timing on the old belt and it was slightly out. I have noticed the difference since fitting the new belt, correctly timed, and wouldn't settle for anything less.

[Kevin Wood]

When you say you've re-used the eccentric pulley, that presumably includes the bearing, the replacement of which is one of the main reasons for changing the cam belt, as failure of the pulleys is more common than failure of the belt. As said, the majority of 2.6/3.2 cars didn't have the adjustable bottom tensioner, so the kit you were supplied was correct, and the eccentric idler was probably supplied in error last time the belt was changed.

I wouldn't re-use the idler if I were you.

[chrisgixer]

well I've refitted the belt 1 and 2 are spot on 3 and 4  are just a tad out will it do?

No!

[chrisgixer]

now cam 3 is like this


just can't seem to get the belt any tighter on the stretch between cam 4 and the crankshaft

Stop, this is going to end in tears.

Get the correct kit.

No evidence of cam locks in the pics btw ??

You should be able to get the belt very close to correctly on, with cam locks and crank lock in place, and the tensioner and rollers backed off to minimum. Although removing a roller to Aid fitting might help.

If the tensioner and rollers still leave the marks out of range of correct adjustment, then the belt needs moving round a tooth while the locks are in place.

[chrisgixer]

Also, all 2.6/3.2 after , I believe , 2001 (?) had a non adjustable bottom roller.

If yours is fixed, you need the fixed roller. As the position of the bolt hole is very different between engines. Is there anything to say the diameter/position/difference in position due the eccentric of the roller will be the same...? That alone "could" be affecting the belt run length, apart from the fact as Kev says....


The belt will do 80k miles most likely. The failure point is the bearings in the rollers. DO NOT RE USE THE ROLLERS OR TENSIONER.

[frenchtony]

Well all done for now, Car running sweetly.

Timing is better than when I started.

I had little option but to reuse the old pulley as the new one sheared off on installation, lucky it happened then see the photo


Anyway I had all the timing issues with the new pulley, the old pulley and it improved when I reused the old eccentric pulley.

So I will contact the supplier as this was a bit of a potential disaster area, never know I might get a refund?

Anyone want a timing kit?

Thanks for the help and observations

[frenchtony]

thanks

[dbug]

now cam 3 is like this

just can't seem to get the belt any tighter on the stretch between cam 4 and the crankshaft

Stop, this is going to end in tears.

Get the correct kit.

No evidence of cam locks in the pics btw ??

You should be able to get the belt very close to correctly on, with cam locks and crank lock in place, and the tensioner and rollers backed off to minimum. Although removing a roller to Aid fitting might help.

If the tensioner and rollers still leave the marks out of range of correct adjustment, then the belt needs moving round a tooth while the locks are in place.

Op stated he rotated engine to check timing - bit difficult with cam locks fitted


@Op - Would still be unhappy fitting the old used pulley - its the pulley bearings which let go first - not a good idea mate
Remember if belt breaks/jumps cogs, then very likely engine bu**ered as a result!