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[SMD]

 
Received my SL shocks from Andy today.

A few questions, are both shocks identical or left side different to right? I only took one out and had a wee look but made a bit of a mess with the shredded paper.

Do I need to reuse any bits from the the old setup? I know the bottom nut is to be reused and the two metal washers on the top. Anything else?

Looking at the How To, its recommends jacking the old shock to compress it. This is while the lower bolt is still connected. Would this not damage something if compressed too much?

Re, compressing new shocks before fitting. Chris recommended following the "test/raise SL suspension" to extend and compress a few times but after having a look at the thread in the maintenance section, I couldn't make head of tails out of it. Couldn't make out where the "rose joint" was or the "right angle arm" 

Any help/pointers appreciated

[chrisgixer]

They are not handed.

Pay close attention to the order of assembly of the top mounts on removal. I don't recall any of these parts included with the shocks. But assemble as removed.

The shocks come pre compressed. Only issue on fitting is making sure the bladders don't stick together as the shock extends.

Location of sensor is drivers side of dif. Look in towards the dif from under the petrol cap and you'll see it.

[chrisgixer]

Thinking further, if your shock has failed as suspected, raising self levelling may not be helpful in your case.

It may be easier to simply follow the guide. Jacking the shock will do no harm.

[SMD]

Wrong section, can this be moved the Omega Help section?

Appreciate all the advice Chris, thanks    So it safe to crank the old shock all the way prior to removing with the bottom bolt still attached.

Chris, having re-read my post what I meant to say was I want compress the new shocks AFTER fitting by raising/lowering the SL as per your HOW TO to make ensure bladders don't stick. If I still can't figure out how to follow your guide by the weekend, I will jack it and lower it a couple of times 

[chrisgixer]

Wrong section, can this be moved the Omega Help section?

Appreciate all the advice Chris, thanks    So it safe to crank the old shock all the way prior to removing with the bottom bolt still attached.

Chris, having re-read my post what I meant to say was I want compress the new shocks AFTER fitting by raising/lowering the SL as per your HOW TO to make ensure bladders don't stick. If I still can't figure out how to follow your guide by the weekend, I will jack it and lower it a couple of times 

You got me confused now.

Start again.

Remove old.
On level ground. CHOCK THE FRONT WHEELS. Use a brick or similar sized lump of wood.
Jack car rear
Place on stands  (there's a reinforced area next to exhaust hangers, be carefull of fuel or brake lines)
Undo top mounts( note order of parts, take a pic or whatever)
Remove airlines (note which way the air socket on the shock is fitted)
Remove bottom bolt.
Remove shock from hub.(Lever the shock out with a jack handle/use the bolt as leverage in the hole to leaver the bottom spacer out of the hub, if it sticks)
note rubber mounts on the top of the shock, sometimes they stick in the top mount hole. Retrieve them noting which way up they are etc.

Fit new
Leave the shocks strapped up. (Only sl shocks come strapped up and fully compressed)
Put bolt in bottom hole ( sorry, of the shock ) making sure the air socket is pointing the right way, so the air lines will reach.
Then place bolt with shock in hub a few turns
Place top mount rubbers on top of shock as noted before
Cut the strap making sure top mount is not dislodged. As shock slowly extends guide the shock top into the top mount hole above.
Do up bottom bolt to 100nm
Fit air lines
(As guide) Turn on ignition. Raise level arm. Air bags should fill when pump kicks in. (This way the air bags are inflated and can't be damaged when the car is lowered to the floor.)
Replace top mounts as before
Do up top mounts as before
Replace rubber cap

Drop car off jack / stands

Replace level arm on sensor, car will slowly drop to normal ride height.

Remove chocks

Job done.



Note, when ignition is on and self levelling pump is running, you may want to turn engine on to avoid flattening a possibly weak battery. A strong battery should be fine, but if its old it may struggle.

[SMD]

Thanks Chris, I was unclear about raising the car with the SL pump. Now I finally got it 

[SMD]

Quick help, jacked up car but can't find suitable place for stands! I have done it before but can't remember!

[SMD]

Can I place them on the bit where the springs are attached to?

I'm such a bell

[05omegav6]

Jack it on the front edge of the rear subframe bush mounting plate, then place the axle stand under the rear edge of the plate

[SMD]

Thanks Al  . This is what I had tried initially but jack got in the way of stand. Chrisgixer sorted me out

But my Halfords kit doesn't have 16mm spanner so its off to halfraud to get one

[TheBoy]

Thanks Al  . This is what I had tried initially but jack got in the way of stand. Chrisgixer sorted me out

But my Halfords kit doesn't have 16mm spanner so its off to halfraud to get one

Ah, one of the new style 150pc sets I presume, missing all the useful sizes (9,16,18mm)

Looks like I'll have to buy a couple of them to replace my 1st generation 150pc set, which was excellent.

[SMD]

Yes the new kit. It is lacking in useful bits, I have had to buy quite a few bits this set is missing 

[Broomies Mate]

It's all about what is 'needed'... As an engineer (who works on old stuff also).... I haven't come across a 9,16,18mm bolt for years.  I'm gutted I own a car which has stupid sized fixings.

The BMW can be stripped and re-built with a basic tool kit, and it's a V8 

[sjc]

LOL, yeah, and what's with the 19mm bolt heads with 18mm nuts?!?!

BTW, what model BMW V8 you got?

[Broomies Mate]

LOL, yeah, and what's with the 19mm bolt heads with 18mm nuts?!?!

BTW, what model BMW V8 you got?

<---- says there - e39 535i (The one NOT to have).  The 540i is much better