Print

Please login or register.
1 Hour 1 Day 1 Week 1 Month Forever
Login with username, password and session length

[Paulus62]

Afternoon all,

After messing about last evening trying to find a socket to fit the inside nut (which I measured with rule as 31mm)  I got the calipers out and measured it properly as 31.89mm, so off to Halfords to get a socket as my set only goes upto 30mm 
After trying various ways to crack the nut came up with this rather Heath Robinson set up....



... Which worked quite well, lifting off floor and rotating a bit and down again, twice and nut came off 

That is when I found there was a locking plate on top of the nut and nipped into the 2 recesses in the hub (see pics below)



If I had removed the locking plate first I probably wouldn't have needed the jack, you live and learn, or not at times 

Now that I've got this far I am not entirely sure what to do next, I think its a matter of pushing the inside out with pullers hooked around B in picture below pushing onto A



Then what do I do?? I assume that the outside, below, comes out when doing the pullers from the point where the 2 arrows ans ? mark are.



As I'm doing this blind, (without a exploded diagram, that is) I don't want to force anything that has a simple locking mechanism. It would be my luck to damage something important and have to get a whole new hub, etc.

Directions will be gratefully accepted 

Paul

[05omegav6]

The outer flange is the same lump of metal as A.  So once you've removed the inner flange B, the outer should just slide out of the bearing

Then the fun begins...

[Nick W]

That's the drive flange you're trying to remove.

Your suggestion about the puller is how it's done. It's not particularly tight, as the splines actually drive it. I found a Mini flywheel puller did mine, as would a length of heavy strap/angle-iron bolted across the flange, with a nut welded in the middle for a bolt to push against the threaded part(which as actually the back end of the hub).

Once the drive flange is out of the way, you get to operate on the hub, which may come out easily. If the bearing is still in one piece, the hub might pull straight through both races. It's much more likely to end up cocked between them, which will require some ingenuity to make a robust puller that will extract it without damaging anything. This is where owning a welder is really handy!

Mine was made from scrapbinium; a short length of large bore hydraulic tubing, a thick metal disc, M16 nut in the centre and a couple of lugs to bolt it to the back of the upright. That lot was welded together and pushed the jammed hub out in seconds.

The circlip is hefty, and has been in place a long time. Large, good quality circlip pliers are essential, but still wouldn't do the job on mine; I cut it into three pieces with a Dremel, as I was my oxy-acetylene cylinders were empty.

The bearing was easily removed with a couple of appropriate spacers and threaded bar to pull it from its housing.

I fitted the replacement the same way, but having left it in the freezer overnight could probably have driven it in with a decent hammer.

Reassemble the handbrake shoes before fitting the hub; it is MUCH easier!

[Paulus62]

Thank you Nick & Al 

I don't have the welding gear so I'm hoping pullers will do.....   

...and if they don't, my neighbour had welding gear.... 

[Nick W]

Additional info:

You'll probably need to cut the bearing race off the hub; use a thin cutting disc(angle grinder for speed, Dremel for accuracy) to cut a slot in it, and a whack with a chisel will do the job. If it comes off in one piece, it makes a good spacer to aid refitting the hub.

[Paulus62]

Cheers Nick 

[Paulus62]

Evening all,

Some more progress made, with the aid of a few nuts & bolts that I was saving for something through wheel nut holes pressing against smaller nut & bolt, washer & nut on bolt though hub and tighten up, going from side to side....



So I've now ended up with these......



Before I go further, does the replacement bearings come with a new circlip [1]? I don't want to cut it out if I need it again.

Do I remove the inner ball race [2] from the outside as well as the outer ball race (what's left of it)?

With the inner part of the outer race that is still on the hub shaft, do I try to get it off in 1 or do I cut it off with a fine wheel on the Dremel?

I'm assuming that it's not a good idea to mark the shaft if possible?

Then to be prepared (like all good Scouts), what is the torque value for the 32mm nut that holds everything together at the end?

Thanks for the assistance to date, would be well and truly up the creak without a boat, let alone a paddle    

Paul 

[Nick W]

The new bearing should come with a new circlip. They're often damaged when removed, so that's normal.

Cut the inner race off with a Dremel. One slot through most of it and a whack with a chisel will be enough. Try to avoid marking the shaft, although any slight damage is easily filed/polished out.

There is no need to dismantle the rest of the bearing as it's supposed to stay in one piece!

[Paulus62]

Thanks again Nick 

[Paulus62]

Hi all,

spent yesterday hunting around for bits & bobs to make a puller to remove the outer sleeve of the bearing from the hub and came up with this...



I've tried with bolts A pushing bar away from hub with bolt C pulling through and just bolt C tightening the bar against the rim of hub B and nothing is moving, left it on all night and still no joy 

So I have come to the conclusion that I'm going to dremel a slot in the bearing case as per.....



Cutting along line A and pulling out inner sleeve & ball race B
in the same manner that I removed the inner casing from the spindle....





Am I right in that from the underside of car looking out at hub the point X is where the bearing pushes up to and Y & Z are the ball race cover & inner sleeve respectfully?

I have tried smacking it with a large hammer and punch around the inside with no effect at all other than increased back ache/pain and a tired arm! I now see what people mean when they say is a sod to do, I'm getting a bit tired of it now and it needs to be out for tomorrow so I can fit the new one (assuming AndyC managed to get it in & out to me today, fingers crossed) 

All 'sensible' (in that I don't have welding, burning gear, etc & its on axle stands on gravel drive  ) advice gratefully accepted 

Thanks,
Paul

[Nick W]

You're on the right track with the puller. It's worth checking that your strap at "C" will actually fit through the hole in the upright, and not bind. The piece across the front of the bearing will need to be spaced outwards once the bearing starts to move. Starting it moving is the tricky bit; get as much tension in the puller as you dare and give it a hefty whack from behind. It's worth leaving it tensioner for a time,  and then try it again.

Grinding the bearing out will be a horrible job, only do it as a last resort.

[Entwood]

No simple ideas to help ... the piece of kit that sassenach uses (home made) involves some long lengths of steel, suitable attachments, an axle stand, and the piece de resistance ...  a sledgehammer !!!

Given this equipment the little sod was out in 3 blows !!!

Good luck !!!

[Paulus62]

Thanks again Nick 

Unfortunately I don't have that much steel to hand, Entwood but thanks for the info re size of hammer   
 
I'll make a few adjustments to ensure clearance, I'm using one of the old cam belt adjusters which just fit inside. Figured that if I got it to move that much I can add the other one after (if I can find a bolt long enough and assuming that it does move!) Looks like a bigger hammer is called for Oh no, look like more pain    

[sassanach]

your on the right lines.forget bolts a,and replace bolt c with m20 or m24 threaded rod and nuts and get the brg started,once it moves pull the brg flush with the housing. then perhaps you can reinstate bolts a, but i use a sleeve on top off the housing.

[Paulus62]

your on the right lines.forget bolts a,and replace bolt c with m20 or m24 threaded rod and nuts and get the brg started,once it moves pull the brg flush with the housing. then perhaps you can reinstate bolts a, but i use a sleeve on top off the housing.

Unfortunately I don't have anything that big  If I don't get anywhere in the next few hours I'll have to order some from somewhere that can deliver next day (I hope!)

Nice to find that I am along the right lines though