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[Paulus62]

Hi All,

I've stripped down the hand brake mechanism's on both hubs and refitted as per the how to guide, after finding that the new cable from last year had chafed the plastic sleeving on the wire where it exits to the brake arm. Stripped back enough of this plastic so that it runs smoothly and as its inside the rubber bit coated it with white Li grease to aid movement and stop corrosion (note to self to check periodically and re-grease). So jobs a good'un, not       

Spent 3 hours on it so far, doesn't matter what I do I cant get the brakes to bite tight enough to stop wheel turning (by pushing with foot from under car) until the tension on the  hand brake is too great ~ MOT man said it should stop car with the amount of pull a lady would exert, (I'm forever being told by SWMBO that I put the handbrake on her Focus too tight). The pads are 11 months old and have plenty of friction material over the whole pad, I've cleaned pads and inside drum with brake cleaner, so there's no oil on the contact surfaces ~ I'm at a loss and thoroughly p****d off     

Help most gratefully received, 

Paul 

[Nick W]

The usual mistake people make with drum handbrakes is to only adjust the cable.
Whereas that's the last step.
Assuming that you've assembled everything correctly, you adjust the shoes through one of the wheelbolt holes so that the brake just binds.
Then you reconnect the cables, pull the handbrake lever up 3 or 4 clicks and adjust the cables so that you can't quite turn the wheel by hand. Release the lever and check that the wheel still turns.
And that's it.

[05omegav6]

In car lever off,
Slacken the wheel adjusters,
Hndbrake on four notches,
Tighten the mechanism under the handbrake, you'll need a deep socket (13mm iirc) and enough extensions to reach the mechanism over the heat sheilds.
You want it tight enough to start the wheels binding.
Then hand brake back off, and adjust the shoes as per the guide.

Should then work fine

[Paulus62]

The usual mistake people make with drum handbrakes is to only adjust the cable.
Whereas that's the last step.
Assuming that you've assembled everything correctly, you adjust the shoes through one of the wheelbolt holes so that the brake just binds.
Then you reconnect the cables, pull the handbrake lever up 3 or 4 clicks and adjust the cables so that you can't quite turn the wheel by hand. Release the lever and check that the wheel still turns.
And that's it.

In car lever off,
Slacken the wheel adjusters,
Hndbrake on four notches,
Tighten the mechanism under the handbrake, you'll need a deep socket (13mm iirc) and enough extensions to reach the mechanism over the heat sheilds.
You want it tight enough to start the wheels binding.
Then hand brake back off, and adjust the shoes as per the guide.

Should then work fine

Thanks Nick & Al,

I've done all that, I was told when it failed MOT that the handbrake needed to stop the car if the main brake failed, I could exert the level of hold with my pull but the tester said it needed to work with a "lady's pull"  is cant quite turn by hand mean that it will move if pushed by foot? if so I've been trying to get no movement at all! Also if I get them to start binding, it that less than no movement of wheel and if so how much? As I am having difficulty understanding how the handbrake can stop the moving car if main brake fail without having to pull damned hard on the brake handle       

I realise that I am more than likely being bloody stupid! So thanks for your patience 

[Marks DTM Calib]

So you stripped it down fully including the internal pivots etc?

The hand brake cable has slack in it when the handbrake is off?

[Paulus62]

So you stripped it down fully including the internal pivots etc?

The hand brake cable has slack in it when the handbrake is off?

Yes to first and yes to second if by slack you mean the springs for pulling armature back have done so and there is give in the cable when pushed with finger, but not sloppy slack
 

[Paulus62]

Locked at it again and have come to the conclusion that I'm being paranoid, does all the things Nick & Al said 

So you stripped it down fully including the internal pivots etc?

The hand brake cable has slack in it when the handbrake is off?

This too yes to both,  (slackened off a bit more so brake comes on at 4 clicks not 3)

I'll take her for a spin & try the hand brake to stop the car while rolling down our hill (only going slowly  )

Thanks again for the help, you have no idea how much it means to me 

Paul

[Paulus62]

Taken her for a run, no rumble from the back  (and I thought it was the diff  )

Handbrake is another thing completely    on the flat at 5 mph 4 clicks and it stops her in just over a length. On the road outside the house where it drop about a foot over a car (estate) length it holds facing up hill at 4 clicks but down hill it needs 6 clicks and a lot more effort required by driver 

Do I need to change anything or is it a matter of seating them in better, I'm at a loss as to what else I can do, other than get another set of shoes   

Cheers,
Paul

[TheBoy]

Check the mechanism is free. Suspect one of them may be seized.

[Paulus62]

Check the mechanism is free. Suspect one of them may be seized.

I can't see that being true as I've had both off twice in the last 24 hours and second time everything was fettled up and moving smoothly

[05omegav6]

Just to be clear you had the mechanism at the wheel end off and in pieces? The lever below the hub is made of three? parts. If they stick, then the hand brake won't work properly...

It is also possible that the cable is beginning to seize up, the only solution being a new one on the plus side, they cost peanuts

[Paulus62]

Just to be clear you had the mechanism at the wheel end off and in pieces? The lever below the hub is made of three? parts. If they stick, then the hand brake won't work properly...

It is also possible that the cable is beginning to seize up, the only solution being a new one on the plus side, they cost peanuts

I had all 3 parts of actuator on both sides apart and re copper slipped as directed earlier so can't see it as that as they were moving fine before and after disc replaced. As for the cable, it was new 11 months ago! I did find the the plastic covering of the cable on both sides had worn and was snagging where it goes into the reinforced bit, took off section of sleeving & greased with white Li grease, having first undone cable from both ends an run back and fore to see how much was needed to allow unrestricted movement. Even realigned the clip for reinforced part to give lesser angle of attack. 

Quite stumped, 3 beer on go, then bed. Shattered, crawling back down under car for innumerable adjustments, the joys of DIY