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[SMD]

After filling up with fuel today the engine management light came on. Car was pulling as normal, no signs of misfire/power loss so I thought the 0430 and 0420 returned. Car felt a bit, well different on start up but not rough before heading to the pumps

But it turned out to be

0300
0301
0306

Cam cover gaskets and spark plugs were changed were changed last year. GM fitted.

[Andy B]

....

But it turned out to be

0300
0301
0306

Cam cover gaskets and spark plugs were changed were changed last year. GM fitted.

Have you pulled either or both your coil packs yet to check the plugs aren't swimming?   

[SMD]

Not yet, but seeing as it was changed last year I assume (hope) its not swimming in oil

[SMD]

Just want to add, light goes out when car is started

[chrisgixer]

...did it rain the night before this happened? Or at any point before the miss fires?

 How long was the car used from cold before filling up with fuel...?



0301 is the cylinder nearest the air box. You'll find a map of cylinder numbers moulded on the cam cover near pot 1.

There's a guide on removing coil pacs in maintenance I think. Basically says to remove two plenum bolts and screw those into the brass inserts on the cp to pull it out. Avoids damaging them.
Check for oil and re torque the plugs to 25nm while your there. They can come loose.

...also check for water or signs of water dripping off the scuttle. Rust or white residue are clues. The wiper spindle is right above pot 5 and the scuttle join is right above pot 6. So if it rains water can get into the ignition system...

Takes some pics of the plug wells and coil pacs under side too. Post em up. Look for cracks in the cp's around the base above the rubbers.


....or it could just be a dodgy batch of fuel ...or the tank was really low?

[SMD]

Thanks Chris.

Yes it was raining last night and heavily yesterday morning. The car was used for max 10mins from startup to stopping at fuel pump. Last tank of fuel was V power nitro and there was just under a 1/4 tank left

Driver side looks easy. How do I de-pressurise fuel lines? Remove fuse to make it stall, as per fuel filter replacement?

Passenger side worries me. Loads of stuff to potentially break 

I have a small coolant leak that isn't the HBV. If the leak is inside the V, could coolant have found its way to the coilpack?

[jonny2112]

Don't think there's any need to de pressurise for this task, and certainly the driver side is easier. On the passenger side you may find it easier to remove the plastic cable tray, which makes the wiring loom a bit more pliable, so you can manoeuvre it out of the way a bit more to aid pack removal. As Chris says, use two plenum bolts to remove the packs. That'll become clearer when you see the threads, having removed the coil pack bolts, and really does help.
I wouldn't have thought a leak in the V could affect the coil packs, but someone will know for sure.

[chrisgixer]

V is much lower than the heads so there's no chance of coolant getting on the cp's from there. HBV might spray it in an odd direction but I've never know it get on top of the engine personally, as the hbv is at the back and lower down it its on its peg.
 Re water or coolant residue on the cam covers, your looking for white scale marks for rain water, or if its coolant the residue the colour will be from vx red coolant so looks a pinky brown colour...or whatever coolant type you have in there.
 Once the water gets in the plug wells it will turn rusty from the steel on the plug base where its boiled/evaporated off.

I'd suggest just doing the drivers side for now and see what you find.

Re fuel rail, I never bother, just undo the fuel line unions/nuts above the drivers cp and have a rag ready to cover the joint to stop the spray and catch the excess. 17mm and 19mm spanners iirc?

[chrisgixer]

Re the rag, leave it tied up around the fuel line bracket on the manifold, to catch fuel , it has a habit of dribbling out of there just at the wrong moment.

Make sure you don't get fuel in your eyes btw, it stings like fook. But you should be fine with a rag around the spanner as you undo the nuts.

[SMD]

Thanks for the replies. I noticed from the spark plug replacement guide that it is possible to get the coil pack out without disconnecting the fuel rail because the spark plug necks are flexible.

How tight should I do the bolts up when replacing the coilpack?

I had a quick look for water stains and I did notice a spot of dried water residue about 10mm wide on top of plug 1 

[SMD]

Plug wells are clean and dry although is that oil in there? I havent got the right tool to take out a plug or check if it is tight. What do I need? I have nothing deep enough to fit over a spark plug! Coil pack looks ok to me. Thoughts?

[omegod]

Dryest plug wells I have seen to be honest! usually at least a bit of oil.

I have some coil packs if you need some, but if it is driving ok 

[SMD]

Cool, I thought there was a bit of oil around the spark plug. So how does the coil pack look to you? Mine is a 3.2 by the way so would one from a 2.6 fit?

How tight does the coil pack bolts need to be? I haven't put it back yet. 

[albitz]

Also the cleanest plug wells I have ever seen.Coil pack looks fine to me.2.6/3.2 coil paks the same. There may be a torque figure for the coil packs,but if not just tighten them until you fell them get tight at the end of the thread (finger tight) then nip them up slightly more with a socket (quarter of a turn approx.) so they don't vibrate loose.
Need a spark plug spanner for checking tightness of plugs. Normall one one in every socket set.

[SMD]

Thanks for the replies. I just done it up hand tight and nipped it to 8nm. As said above, no running issues so will see if code self clears

Initial start was about 700rpm but now idling at 500rpm