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[Webby the Bear]

Hi guys,

Refitting camshafts today, all going spectacularly well, got all lifters to fit nicely (martin will know why that's harder than it sounds  )........then one of the bolts snapped when doin up the cam bearing caps. theyre only 8nm.... and it still broke 

Anyways tried to remove said broken bolt which is stuck in the head but its solid.  can I get away with just the one on the righ hand side? I presume not but really getting p*ssed off now. I keep looking at this really nice MV6 on the trader and thinking I could get that and get some money for scrapping my car  however this is defeatist talk and I must grin and bear it 

anyway got the snot on the front cap and tapped in the first cam seal. (note the missing bolt  )


lastly do I need to tap this cam seal in anymore or is it in as far as it'll go? 


ps ignore the crap on top that will be cleaned but be rest assured everything that was sealed today was cleaned very well

[Spireite]

Remove cam again and use a stud extractor maybe, that's if the shank of the bolt protrudes above the head.

Definitely don't rely on one bolt, that's crazy.

[Webby the Bear]

Remove cam again and use a stud extractor maybe, that's if the shank of the bolt protrudes above the head.

Definitely don't rely on one bolt, that's crazy.

Was just tongue in cheek 

I don't have stud extractors but looks like i'll be buying some 

[05omegav6]

Would it hurt to weld that cap in place on that side? Assuming that the bolt can't/won't come out

[Webby the Bear]

Would it hurt to weld that cap in place on that side? Assuming that the bolt can't/won't come out

i'll do my best to get it out. but if it wont come out would front cap sealant suffice?

[Andy B]

A bolt tightens up against the back of the head, so, now that it's not there, in theory you should just be able to unscrew the remnants by hand. Remove the cam, along with all the caps, & I'm sure that you'll be able to unscrew the bit that's left fairly easily. Hopefully there'll be a bit of bolt sticking above the head that you'll be able to get Vicegrips on to.  Failing that, very carefully use a centre punch to tap the broken bolt out of the head. If all else fails, you're looking at Easy Outs, but go very carefully ..... ie make sure you drill as centrally as you possibly can ....... but I'm sure you'll not need to go that far. 

[Webby the Bear]

Thanks Andy 

[Andy B]

Thanks Andy 

You're welcome. 

[Webby the Bear]

ps, that cam seal in far enough?  it don't feel like it wants to go in any further

[Andy B]

ps, that cam seal in far enough?  it don't feel like it wants to go in any further

a bit difficult to see properly, but if it doesn't want to go any further, don't try to force it. I can see from the picture it's 7mm thick .... how deep is the recess for it? 

[omega3000]

Bolt should come out easy enough , just take your time dude . I can imagine a few swear words were exchanged between you an miggy 

[Webby the Bear]

ps, that cam seal in far enough?  it don't feel like it wants to go in any further

a bit difficult to see properly, but if it doesn't want to go any further, don't try to force it. I can see from the picture it's 7mm thick .... how deep is the recess for it? 

hmmm not sure. ill have to measure it andy... just wondered if anyone knew if it was to be flush or not 

[Webby the Bear]

Bolt should come out easy enough , just take your time dude . I can imagine a few swear words were exchanged between you an miggy 

nah, I don't swear at them anymore. I used to throw tools around  but found a calm place that i'm happy in.

to be fair all I have to do is get the cams in, button up exhaust fannymould on drivers side, cambelt, cam covers and plenum back. the only thing I think im going to struggle on is the electrical connections i.e. where they all go 

[PhilRich]

Cam seals on the 2.2 are flush webby, can't see it being different on a full fat omega tbh

[Webby the Bear]

Cam seals on the 2.2 are flush webby, can't see it being different on a full fat omega tbh

thanks phil.