Print

Please login or register.
1 Hour 1 Day 1 Week 1 Month Forever
Login with username, password and session length

[DrAndyB]

Hi all,

Handbrake needs adjusting as on top/last few notches.  MOT due in few months so thought I would do handbrake adjustment in case they fail it 

Car has 57k on the clock and I have had her from new.  I have not had the rear disks changed and I have not put any pads or shoes on the back so all will be the originals 

Is it worth, as I believe its recommended to take rear disks off to set adjustment screw on the shoes, to put a new set of discs, pads and shoes on if they are all original ones - not sure if after 57 k miles they would need changing ?  If have to take the rear discs off, then I am thinking I may of well put a new set back on 

Is it best to :

1/  leave well alone and just pop discs off and adjust as normal on the shoe adjuster ?
2/ pop new pads a s shoes on ?
3/ pop new discs, pads and shoes on ?

Is it best to stick with OEM parts or are aftermarket discs, pads and shoes OK - are there any brands to stick with /avoid ?

Cheers in advance.

Car is 2.5 V6 CDX on a V plate.

Andy.

[tunnie]

Given it's age, I'd be tempted to take rear discs off and inspect them. Check for wear on the shoes, then re-fit and re-adjust accordingly.

There is a good guide here: http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/index.php?topic=90580.0

For thinks like handbrake shoes, any good parts supplier is fine. Got mine from Eurocarparts. 

[DrAndyB]

Many thanks for advice and link to the guide.  Looks simple 

I think I'll treat to new pads and shoes. 

Do after market pads come with new pins and anti rattle springs ? Or is a trip to the stealer needs 

Cheers again,
Andy.

[Andy B]

Many thanks for advice and link to the guide.  Looks simple 

I think I'll treat to new pads and shoes. 

Do after market pads come with new pins and anti rattle springs ? Or is a trip to the stealer needs 

Cheers again,
Andy.

generally not, likewise Trade Club pads, the pins will be OK, it's just the anti-rattle clips that tend to rot & fail.

[tunnie]

pads, only come with pads, only around £10 from a dealer for a pair  Pins and springs are extra. Worth a visual inspection first, often they can be re-used, unless they are seriously rusted. I'd recommend popping the wheel off, give the pins a blast of Plusgas, so it has a few days to work in. 

[DrAndyB]

Cheers.  Good job she is in the garage in the dry 

[TheBoy]

When its apart, clean up the drum part with a wire brush. Only need to replace the rear discs if its damaged, or is below minimum thicknesss

[Kevin Wood]

I would have a look at it all before deciding. At 57k, there will be no wear on the handbrake shoes and probably minimal on the disks at the rear. If disks are looking in poor condition, then rear disks and pads are worthwhile. At this point, it's worth cleaning up the shoes and checking their condition. Chances are they will be fine, but they do sometimes deteriorate due to age and the linings start to separate from the shoes.

If the rear disks and pads look in decent condition, then just follow the adjustment procedure in the first instance and, if that results in a satisfactory handbrake, all is well. If not, then take the disk off and investigate, clean up inside the drum and lubricate a little where the shoes meet the backplate.

[DrAndyB]

Thanks for that.   

Sounds like handbrake shoes should be OK, but if disks and pads OK, then for the cost of a new set of pads then guess it's OK to pop a new set of pads back in as need to take the drum off to adjust handbrake correctly and clean shoes anyhow 

Could try to turn adjuster without taking the disk off, but I can't remember which way to flick the flat screwdriver in the hole to wind adjuster out slightly    ?

( did my old Carlton diplomat a good few years ago , Much to neignbours horror as discs not move without perswading with the 7lb sledge hammer ( yep, I put new discs back on as ones which came off were a little bent  )

[tunnie]

You need a torch to shine into the gap, hopefully you can see the thread on the adjuster. It depends if its been off before, I *think* it was flicked up to back it off. Can't remember 

You should see the amount of thread decrease though, if its going right way 

My original rear shoes fell apart at 164k is, so should be fine at 57k 

Check the pads, they may well be fine & have loads of meat left 

[Kevin Wood]

I always forget which way to turn the adjuster. Easiest is to turn it one way for a while. If the hub won't turn after a bit of this, you're tightening it. Otherwise, you're probably loosening it. You want to get it as loose as possible before removing the disk to preserve the handbrake shoes.

Once you've beaten the disk into submission you'll probably need a new one, though, hence just try to adjust the handbrake first if the disk isn't too badly worn.

On reflection, if it's a V plate car where the brakes are originals, actually, I think you might find that corrosion may well have done whatever damage wear hasn't. If it were mine I'd probably replace disk and pads, on the basis that I've had my money's worth. Hold off on the shoes until you can inspect the old ones, as, if they clean up OK and haven't separated from the friction material, they will be fine, and a new set are quite expensive.

[tunnie]

I always forget which way to turn the adjuster.

Once you've beaten the disk into submission

Glad I'm not alone on those two points 

[Darth Loo-knee]

Personally I would remove the disc's,  run a file around to get rid of the lip there usually is fhst the shoes have created. Check everything is free and working, put a little copper grease on the moving parts then move the adjuster so I can just get the disc back on again. Spin the disc to be sure its free then put in the grub screw to hold the disc in place. If the handbrake still comes up too far (after you have done both wheels) a deep 13mm socket and extension is needed to take up the slack on the bolt thats under the heat sheild that the propshaft goes under
Hope that helps

[05omegav6]

I always forget which way to turn the adjuster.

Once you've beaten the disk into submission

Glad I'm not alone on those two points 

The adjuster threads aren't sided... to adjust the shoes apart right hand side is up and left hand side is down
To back them off is opposite








I think

[tunnie]

I always forget which way to turn the adjuster.

Once you've beaten the disk into submission

Glad I'm not alone on those two points 

The adjuster threads aren't sided... to adjust the shoes apart right hand side is up and left hand side is down
To back them off is opposite








I think

Assuming someone previously did put the adjuster back on the right way around