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[tunnie]

On the 2.2, its now 166k old and I've never touched the fluid. No real problems, but just think it's due as I maybe using it more for commuting soon.

Done a bit of research, found this old thread with DTM's instructions:

http://oldsite.omegaowners.com/forum/YaBB.pl?num=1166171922/6

1) Is 93165290 still right part number?
2) As it's so old, I think i'll do the full flush. So 3 litres enough for full fill, drive, drain, then fill?
3) Is it worth adding anything to oil, as previously suggested. (Slick 50 or Molyslip)?
4) How on earth can you tell the fluid is 8/9mm from the fill hole? When re-filling 

Thanks in advance 

[05omegav6]

With ref to 4. use a paperclip or length of wire

95k down the road, if it ain't broke...

[tunnie]

With ref to 4. use a paperclip or length of wire

95k down the road, if it ain't broke...

Bit inaccurate? 

Just pushing that in, how do you know its going "down" and not across the inside of the box? 

Is it actually worth changing? Looks like a dirt cheap job, just thought might as well. 

[05omegav6]

Just bend it, so the long straight edge is 90° to the remaining loop

Mine has been notchy cold since 97k, now fast approaching 260k... apart from coming out for a couple of clutches, the only work on the box itself has been a new rear seal and a fluid top up as a result

[JamesV6CDX]

On the 2.2, its now 166k old and I've never touched the fluid. No real problems, but just think it's due as I maybe using it more for commuting soon.

Done a bit of research, found this old thread with DTM's instructions:

http://oldsite.omegaowners.com/forum/YaBB.pl?num=1166171922/6

1) Is 93165290 still right part number?
2) As it's so old, I think i'll do the full flush. So 3 litres enough for full fill, drive, drain, then fill?
3) Is it worth adding anything to oil, as previously suggested. (Slick 50 or Molyslip)?
4) How on earth can you tell the fluid is 8/9mm from the fill hole? When re-filling 

Thanks in advance 

1) No idea! I ask for transmission oil, VX give it to me
2) Not a bad ldea, but unlikely to be necessary, manual oil stays quite clean, doesn't sudder from carbon build like engine oil
3) Nope
4) Make sure the car is completely level (Eg, not just front raised) when you do this

[biggriffin]

Drain out the std stuff and refill with amsoil (fully syn) don't know what grade either a 70w or an 80w makes gear changes sliky smooth.

i would use amsoil if i had manwell,but can only use it in the diff.

Also known as redline.

[Broomies Mate]

Why not just take it to a specialist?  A fluid change only costs ~£30 if you take your own oil 

I know that's against the grain, but, why spend an hour or two working and then worrying for the next 100 miles when you can get this type of thing done for the equivalent of a takeaway curry?

[tunnie]

Drain out the std stuff and refill with amsoil (fully syn) don't know what grade either a 70w or an 80w makes gear changes sliky smooth.

i would use amsoil if i had manwell,but can only use it in the diff.

Also known as redline.

Thanks, i'll do a search for this 

Why not just take it to a specialist?  A fluid change only costs ~£30 if you take your own oil 

I know that's against the grain, but, why spend an hour or two working and then worrying for the next 100 miles when you can get this type of thing done for the equivalent of a takeaway curry?

Cause I'd like to do it myself, the Omega is known inside out here, besides if I take it there, who knows if they will actually do a good job?

No personal satisfaction in a job done either   

[Broomies Mate]

Cause I'd like to do it myself, the Omega is known inside out here, besides if I take it there, who knows if they will actually do a good job?

No personal satisfaction in a job done either   

Good point well put!

[Marks DTM Calib]

Drain out the std stuff and refill with amsoil (fully syn) don't know what grade either a 70w or an 80w makes gear changes sliky smooth.

i would use amsoil if i had manwell,but can only use it in the diff.

Also known as redline.

Gets my vote, good synthetic oil is much better than the Vx stuff

[tunnie]

Drain out the std stuff and refill with amsoil (fully syn) don't know what grade either a 70w or an 80w makes gear changes sliky smooth.

i would use amsoil if i had manwell,but can only use it in the diff.

Also known as redline.

Gets my vote, good synthetic oil is much better than the Vx stuff

This stuff?

http://www.opieoils.co.uk/p-1051-amsoil-synthetic-manual-transmission-fluid-mtf.aspx

Worth doing the flush method or just drain and re-fill?